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Revo tires on a Maxx

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SmileyRacing

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OK, just got my Revo tires/wheels from BadBoy2 - thank you!

They seem to be hitting under a hard turn either direction. I know they fit the truck, and I haven't heard anyone complain about them hitting the a-arms so not sure what's up with my truck. I do have the HG645MG servo for steering, is it possible that it has more travel then the stock servo?
 
I dont think so... The t-maxx pillow balls can only let the hub travel so far... I think the back spacing is different...
 
I forgot to mention that the turnbuckles are also hitting the lower control arms in the front, and I have the steering linkage on the inside hole on the Kimborough servo saver..

I'll have to see how it is once I get the UE saver in and go back to a standard servo arm.
 
I am running the stock Revo tires on my Maxx and they fit with no problem. Do you have the old Maxx or the 2.5 Maxx? That is very odd that you are hitting the turnbuckles as well. What are your camber, caster settings?
 
Plaidfish said:
are your turnbuckles on top or under the steering knuckle arms?


To go along with this one, are you running the stock turnbuckles or did you upgrade? I upgraded to a set of Lunsford that were a bit bigger than stock, but still no clearance problems.
 
They are stock turnbuckles, and they are under the steering knuckle arms. I am thinking (hoping) it's the positioning of the pivot on the servosaver, the arm I will be putting on the servo has the hole located about 1/16 of an inch closer to the servo gear.

Caster/Camber settings are the way it came out of the box.
 
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Here are some pictures to show you what I mean..

T-Maxx_05-24-05_1.webp


T-Maxx_05-24-05_2.webp


T-Maxx_05-24-05_3.webp
 
I don't know if this is the problem or not but it looks to me like you may need to adjust the linkage on your steering servo. Turn it in a bit? I am still a newbie myself but I spent alot of time getting used to adjusting the steering. Just an idea. I will have to go home and take a look at mine now that I see pics. Mine are close, but they do not touch. We will get this straight.

Tom
 
mine is in peices right now so I can't just look and see....but if you are using the UE or proline steering kit get an aluminum servo arm....use the middle hole and see if that helps on th elinkage from the servo.....the turnbuckles should be under the knuckles......make sure your turnbuckle ends are all the way on, yes you'll have to adjust them for toe again......but you want toe out in th efront for your steering.....tighter turns but more wobly onthe straights....MTs aren't meant for speeed anyway.....make sure your pivot balls are in properly...use a caliper (cheap ones work good enough) and make sure all your front end is even.....I know this won't really give you the clearance you are looking for but it will give us a baseline to help you from.....nothing like going through trouble shooting to find you didn't set something up in th efirst place.....I'll take a look at mine tonite (the front and rear are still assembled) and see what mine do.......
 
Just looked at mine... The turnbuckles are a good 3/8" away from the arm through the whole swing... They are both hitting right? Make sure your axle carriers (the things the pillow balls hold on) have a square back end where the pillow balls go through. That is how the wheels stop from turning too far, and if they are worn out, the square will be pushed out, and it should be noticable when looking at it...
 
Everything is fairly stock on it as far as setup. I have replace a couple of control arms, but I counted the turns out and put the pillow balls back in the same amount. I will check to make sure the turn stops are still ok, I can tell you that the turnbuckles started hitting immediately when I put the HG645MG servo on.

They are both hitting equally
 
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The stops are definitely rounded out. Has anyone else had this problem with the HG645MG servo? I know it's a ballsy servo, so have my steering knuckles just become wear items now?
 
If you have a radio with an endpoint adjustment, then you need to adjust it so the servo doesn't push against the knuckles... If you dont have a nice radio that does that, then try not to steer lock to lock... I have the same servo... i want to upgrade soon, to a faster, more torquey one... I need to save about another $100 though... I like my new radio because it has end point adjustment, and a lot of other useful stuff... I really dont know how i did without it...
 
.21Rc10GT said:
If you have a radio with an endpoint adjustment, then you need to adjust it so the servo doesn't push against the knuckles... If you dont have a nice radio that does that, then try not to steer lock to lock... I have the same servo... i want to upgrade soon, to a faster, more torquey one... I need to save about another $100 though... I like my new radio because it has end point adjustment, and a lot of other useful stuff... I really dont know how i did without it...

What type of radio do you have? I have the stock TQ3.
 
I have the JR XS3 Pro... I think the regular XS3 is like $150 with the reciever. It is an FM radio that is sythesized... Which means, you just turn the knob on the reciever and change the channel... its awesome... Pretty comfortable as well.
 
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