can the Savage 3 shoe clutch and flywheel setup work in the revo with a LRP.28 ? i am currently using the stock traxxas setup (2 shoe clutch with stock flywheel) cannot afford the Buku clutch just yet ,trying to see if there is a cheaper route thats better than the stock setup. I know nothing compares to the buku but the funds are low and my friend has a savage sitting
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revo/lrp clutch
- Thread starter jamdude
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It should. I'm running a losi 8ight 2.0 clutch in mine.
Savage bell is the same pitch, 1/8 scale, M1 I think is what it's called.
I run a savage flywheel/bell/clutch on mine, but I had to move the trans forward about 1/4". I slotted the holes for the trans, cut a bit out of the brake area with a dremel, got everything lined up and installed, then drilled 2 holes through the chassis/trans flange so I could key the trans to the chassis with a nut and bolt. I didn't trust the 4 trans screws keeping it from moving around.
I run the same when I use a small block as well. Just had to get a crank extender so the 1/8th clutch setup would fit on a SB length crank.
Traxxas clutches never lasted long for me. I used one for about a month (1/2 gallon) and the slipping drove me nuts, so I did what I did. With a decent BB, it's pretty much a necessity to run 1/8 clutch setup or it just slips all the time... I ran an XTM24.7 and OS21RG in mine with teflon/carbon shoes and it did fine. As soon as my LRP28S3 was broken in, the clutch slipped a lot still, so I got 1/8th hard alloy shoes. Now it does really well.
I run a savage flywheel/bell/clutch on mine, but I had to move the trans forward about 1/4". I slotted the holes for the trans, cut a bit out of the brake area with a dremel, got everything lined up and installed, then drilled 2 holes through the chassis/trans flange so I could key the trans to the chassis with a nut and bolt. I didn't trust the 4 trans screws keeping it from moving around.
I run the same when I use a small block as well. Just had to get a crank extender so the 1/8th clutch setup would fit on a SB length crank.
Traxxas clutches never lasted long for me. I used one for about a month (1/2 gallon) and the slipping drove me nuts, so I did what I did. With a decent BB, it's pretty much a necessity to run 1/8 clutch setup or it just slips all the time... I ran an XTM24.7 and OS21RG in mine with teflon/carbon shoes and it did fine. As soon as my LRP28S3 was broken in, the clutch slipped a lot still, so I got 1/8th hard alloy shoes. Now it does really well.
REVO-5309
Hardcore RCTalk User
i got this one. works perfect
http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/servlet/the-2119/Losi-8ight-dsh-T-2.0-Truggy/Detail
http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/servlet/the-2119/Losi-8ight-dsh-T-2.0-Truggy/Detail
Yes it a 4 shoe and it fits right on. Your OK using losi 8ight clutch bells, but if your looking to use hardened steel clutch bells in more than 15t I don't think there is any specifically for the 8ight . I'm using an ofna and because of the 4 screw heads on the.clutch my shoes are exposed about 1/16 of an inch. Whenever I get around to it I'm going to face the front of the clutch and file.down the screw heads.
REVO-5309
Hardcore RCTalk User
I got a 16 or 17t losi clutch bell (not hardened) for mine from amain. I personally dont think a hardened one is needed. i was using the stock revo cbs there for a while on the lrp28 and had no issues. these bigger clutches will have less stress on them, providing u have the mesh and bearings shimmed correcty so theres no drag. Also make sure u have a shim or two between the motor and flywheel and u may also need a few between the shoes and the clutch bell otherwise the bolt heads holding the pads in will touch the cb and cause un wanted friction/heat.
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Well I got a Robinson Racing steel spur so I went with a hardened clutch bell to avoid any problems.
Your running a big block with a stock transmission and gears without any problems stripping gears? I know the stock spur probably would hold up if the slipper is adjusted properly, but I figure if get the RR steel spur anyways.
I kept on blowing apart the stock slippers, if I tightened it enough to stop it slipping all the time it'd tear apart the pads, if I ran it looser it'd slip badly & wear the pads real quick.
RR slipper fixed that.
Just a hint tho, if you run without the body often make a guard to keep dirt/gravel out of the slipper/bell - mine got chewed up by gravel spray, got a new one coming.
I'm going to try out a savage 19T bell & see how that goes.
RR slipper fixed that.
Just a hint tho, if you run without the body often make a guard to keep dirt/gravel out of the slipper/bell - mine got chewed up by gravel spray, got a new one coming.
I'm going to try out a savage 19T bell & see how that goes.
I use a modified break pad instead of slipper pads on my revo. I think it was an old (2.5) t-maxx brake disk. I had to round out the bolt holes just a tad to fit in the pressure arms, but it works great. Haven't had the slipper apart in 3 years.
REVO-5309
Hardcore RCTalk User
The slipper pad idea is good. Will look into that. But ATM my slipper is slipping a bit much but ill be tightening that up a touch next run
---------- Post added at 5:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:59 PM ----------
And still stock tranny. I just keep a spare of the gears. It's cheaper than paying 100$ for steel gears and make it heavier
---------- Post added at 5:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:59 PM ----------
And still stock tranny. I just keep a spare of the gears. It's cheaper than paying 100$ for steel gears and make it heavier
I run full RRP steel with FOC in my trans. I do use plastic spurs though.