Revo Durability

[Tarant]

Can you make a Revo as durable as a Savage(staying away from a lot of Al and Ti. I ask cause I want to get somthing that I can take to a 4X4/moto park and hit some insanely huge jumps and be able to come home in one piece. But I also want it to be very race-able. (Yes I know IB has a sweet race savy that is the answers to my prayers but I wont have that kind of money for a while and by then who knows were that baby will be)

So can it be done.

Thanks

ps keep in mind i want to get most of my parts from Tower Hobbies

 

[SMaxxin]

Put some RPM arms, carriers and add the engine brace (3.3 comes with brace)you will have a very tough Revo. IMO that would be the closest thing to Savage durability without having a Savage, and it will still do great on the track.

 

[AC48]

The Revo is the closet truck to the savage for durability IMO. Add what Smaxin said and it will be just about as durable, maybe some shock ends too.

 

[RushRC]

I pimped out a Revo with $2500 in upgrades and a .30 Adam Drake engine! OMG, right???

Anyway, RMP arms are great if you stay with the stock engine setup. What engine do you want to run?

 

[Monkey Wrench]

RMP arms are great if you stay with the stock engine setup.

Will you help me understand the relationship between the engine size and the durability of the arms? I have an OS .18TM in my Revo with RPM all around and have yet to have an issue, so I'm confused on why you would suggest RPM for only the stock engine set-up.

To add, unless you primarily intend your Revo to be a shelf queen, stay away from aluminum. Sure, it'll bend rather than break, problem is it'll stay bent!

 

[vbgagnon]

I will agree with what is said above. The revo will bash with anything you throw at it! And it will do so out of the box, IMO you don't really need the rpm stuff right off the bat!

 

[beason]

key upgrades would be rpm arms at least, and carriers if you want them.
the revo is pretty tough as is but one thing that REALLY helps durability is making it lighter. the tubez rods, hollow balls, and TI hinge pins, save quite a bit. plus a really light tire/wheel combo (pins and hurricans), and it will be close to unbreakable. also removal of the reverse, servo and modual saves a bit to.

the lighter the truck the easyer it is on the parts in a bad landing

the shock ends and shafts are also a weak spot. i had a problem with the downtravel of the suspension pulling the ends off and bending the shafts (even the ti coated ones) I'm thinking thicker oil will help though. i also have upgraded to the hard coated shocks.


i run the tm523 on mine and havent had a problem with the rpm parts at all.

i also have the tekno ext rears but i havent ran them much.

 

[Monkey Wrench]

I will agree with what is said above. The revo will bash with anything you throw at it! And it will do so out of the box, IMO you don't really need the rpm stuff right off the bat!

Oh, absolutely! It took me running mine into a gutter before I actually broke anything. I only replaced factory with RPM because I had actually broke something. The factory arms are, in fact, more durable than other trucks (save the Savage, maybe).

I wouldn't drop money into new parts until you need to (or you catch a great deal on them!)

 

[Tarant]

Thanks everyone,

I plan on getting a 3.3 and doing all RPM eventualy. I plan on waiting till something brakes.


I was wondering Would going proline 40series be good or bad for big air, I frist thought good since their was all that extra pading to help with the impact. But they are bigger and heavier would that cause more broken parts.

 

[vbgagnon]

40series have less padding. Big air would be good with stockers, or bowties or something like that. any 40 series wouldn't be good for big air because there is almost no sidewall.

 

[mcstoufer]

Since we are talking durability here, are the additions of the center diff and rear brake kit worth the investment? At least you'll have something to 'curb' your fatal impacts.

 

[jon2]

Since we are talking durability here, are the additions of the center diff and rear brake kit worth the investment? At least you'll have something to 'curb' your fatal impacts.

for the price of both you can just get the RD Quickturn. I have looked to see if there is one that will fit the 3.3 and nothing really says yes or no. For sure on the 2.5 . Pretty sure I will invest in one for my 2.5 and the center diff and rear brake for the 3.3 .

If you are looking to be able to snap the rear end in a turn and stilll hold the power going out, the Quickturn just may be what you are looking for.

The stock brak set up is pretty strong already. If you are looking for something stronger, try upgrading your Throttle/brake servo for something that is faster and stronger.

 

[mcstoufer]

I'm not quite sure how that Quickturn works. Do the front wheels stop when your off the gas? Losing the option of front/back break biasing seems pretty major.

 

[jon2]

I stand corrected there is one for the 3.3
http://rdracing.powweb.com/Zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=15&zenid=e9ad33c8a16d5bca75ed37a8dc956b76

The standard 2.5 quicktrurn

http://rdracing.powweb.com/Zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1&zenid=e9ad33c8a16d5bca75ed37a8dc956b76

Both tell you what the quickturn does.

 

[mcstoufer]

I guess I need to see it installed and play with the car to fully understand. This alien technology is not obvious.

 

[SMaxxin]

I guess I need to see it installed and play with the car to fully understand. This alien technology is not obvious.

A quickturn is like putting a OWB on your front drive shaft. When you apply throttle it's 4wd, when you apply brakes it's the rear tires only...no front brakes.


For bashing the center diff sucks, it robs off the line power....no wheelies and no donuts. For a basher/racer set up I would use a quickturn before the center diff rear brake set up.

 

[robmob]

I'm not quite sure how that Quickturn works. Do the front wheels stop when your off the gas? Losing the option of front/back break biasing seems pretty major.

You can't set-up front/back break biasing with the Revo tranny.

 

[olds97_lss]

Also, I didn't see the header as being noted as a weak item. It is. Do yourself a favor and either get the one for the OS 18TM or rig up this one: HPI Header I broke mine 4 times from doing 5 foot jumps and landing on the wheels. It just snaps right off at the engine. At $22 a piece, I wasted $88 on headers.

Running RPM arms with P2 rockers (stock on the 3.3), 50 weight oil and silver/blue springs will get you a truck that can take decent air. But it bottoms out pretty bad. I run that with 60 weight and blue springs all around and it bottoms out pretty bad with 5 feet or more of air under it. I'm considering buying P3 rockers as others have had decent luck with the exact same setup, but running P3's.

If you use the center mounting holes on the arms for the pushrods instead of the ones that make it stand the tallest, you will have less problems with shocks breaking. Although everything in your body will make you want to use the inside holes to make it taller, don't. Save yourself the headache. It shoves the rocker too far on off kilter landings and snaps push-rods, shock ends and rockers. Also makes RPM carriers prone to popping off the arms.

Rear skid plates snap as well which makes your hinge pins fall out and end the day. I just bought a trinity aluminum one (waiting for the mail currently). I've busted 5 of those in the past year. The front skid is the original that came with the truck.

Sorry, long post, but I figure if you want it to take a beating, I've set mine up to do just that. Now it's almost as tough as my savage, but not quite. It handles a lot better though. Much more agile. Just as quick and torqy now that I've installed a BB kit.

 

[Bryson]

I dont know how strong the stock arms are i bought rmps off the bat but i do know that the rpms can take one hell of a beating. I've hit a light pole at almost wide open. And ill agree with Olds the stock rear skids are crap. But the Revo is one hell of a basher IMO.

 

[jon2]

A quickturn is like putting a OWB on your front drive shaft. When you apply throttle it's 4wd, when you apply brakes it's the rear tires only...no front brakes.


For bashing the center diff sucks, it robs off the line power....no wheelies and no donuts. For a basher/racer set up I would use a quickturn before the center diff rear brake set up.

That is exactly what it is. A one way bearing in the front shaft! I wa thinking of this or the center diff/Rear brake set up just to see if I can tune the diffs are certain way to get the true diff action an 1/8th scale buggy.