Revo 3.3 need advice on a blown tranny ??

[kylesrevo3.3]

, so i have a revo 3.3 totally tricked out. At first I bought it for bashing then once I took it to the track I realized that I want to win some races, so I invested in buying pretty muchevery upgrade you can. Here's my setup that I'm running right now, switched out all a-arms, and knuckles to rpm, I also changed out my stock big cluncky plastic driveshafts to the steel high velocity driveshafts, I've also replaced all servos with savox all metal geared high torque servos. This is the newest revo with the extented chassis with onboard optidrive system for the forward and reverse, I have also installed the progressive 3 rockers, I also installed a wing and a sway bar kit which helps out a lot from it rolling and I've also gotten rid of the big clunky stock tires and rims and replaced them with light weight dished racing rims and using pro lines low profile softer track tires. I've also replaced all the stock turn buckles and push rods to the hollow aluminum annodized red push rod and turnbuckles, installed and mounted a digital temp gage so intern i've shaved a lot of weight off the truck and also have made it a lot stronger, next i'm removing the ez start system to a pull start. I know a lot of people like doing a forward only conversion but I really like having reverse on the track. Anyways sorry I'm just trying to give you guys an idea of what my truck looks like and what I'm running but to my question. The truck is only 2 months old I have $2000.00 invested into it and even thought everyone on the track says I need to get rid of my revo and build an actually track truck from the ground up, but i really want to keep my revo and beat the odds of what everyone says, but last night at the track 2 laps into racing the motor died I have the trx 3.3 which is supposedly one of the hardest nitro motors to tune but I thought I had it tuned pretty well until someone else thought they could tune it better and it ended up running a lot worse the engine temp reached 333 degrees F the motor is still ok it just needs to be restored to factory settings even though the glow plug is fried but after tuning the motor I ended up destroying a couple gears in the transmission so my question is, Is it possible to rebuild the transmission and replacing all the plastic gears with all metal or aluminum gears keeping in mind i want to keep my reverse so what should i do, should I get rid of my reverse set up on it eliminating an extra servo and opti drive system which I know will save some weight and make it less complex.Is there a kit or someone who sells all metal gears I've also seen a all aluminum transmission case,basically what would be my best route? rebuild and keep reverse and try to find an all metal gear kit or do the forward only converson? sorry for the long explanation I'm just really frustrated because i have so much time and money into this car and i want the transmission to be tough as nails. Ill take any advice that I can get, thanks in advance.

 

[chickenman242]

robinso racing sell steel gears for revo and maxxs' but i'd be looking into why your popping trannies i've had my maxx for bout 5 years and gone through 3 3.3 a rb tm523 and now onto my second rb and i've only ever done 1 gear inside and i was racing it for a couple of meets

I found that when i went to the track i got told the same thing that a t maxx is a toy and i should buy a real racing truggy,showed him 'i just smiled as i difted past him .
i guess the thing with racing is the fact that their engines are always on the edge of meltdown coz theyre there to win so if they run a bit warm and go bang theres a spare

i think your engine will be ok just wind the needles back 1/4 turn and start again,once i had a 3.3 stop at 450f and it survived

 

[mrbones]

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=96973
This is a link to your transmission question. Metal gears are available thru Robinson Racing but you better read the advice on the forum. Everyone here says get rid of the opti drive control because it's a problem. All it does it keep you from shifting to reverse while you are still moving forward (which is useless!). I have a 3.3 Revo with stock trans gears and I've never had a problem with breaking gears. They say it is slipper clutch adjustment for proper operation. They also say do not put much faith in that on-board temp indicator. If you have your fuel adjusted correctly, hi temp will not be a a problem. I have a temp gun in my box and never use it because it's unnecessary. You need to keep increasing fuel on the Hi Speed Needle until the motor performance starts to fall off and then back off a little and leave it there. The fuel provides cooling and lubrication. You can get the motor to go faster by leaning it out but you will burn up your motor doing so. ( I know this because I've done it!) You also need good air flow across the engine. I cut out the front window in all my nitro's to get good air flow through the body.

 

[Snook Man]

Advise:

Remove reverse. 1st, it is not legal to run reverse at most tracks. 2nd, The FOC will give you a lighter truck overall and a stronger transmission. 3rd you will become a better driver without reverse.
If you’re serious about racing, reverse is noting but a hindrance.

Install the center differential and rear brake system. Yep, you have to loose reverse for this but if you want the best possible track Revo the center diff is a big +.

No need for the aluminum tranny housing, you can install the RRP steel gears if you like but with a proper slipper clutch setting the plastic FOC (and the CD if installed) do well and on the occasion you do strip a gear they are cheap to replace.