Revo 3.3 Moving Forward

[md519]

Hi Everyonel,

I'm new to these forums and to RC in general,yet glad to be here. Just purchased a Revo 3.3 and seem to be having a little issue with the unit creeping forward on it's own. I've been adhering to the Traxxas Break-in method and have only gotten to tank #2.

The unit moves forward on it's own if I let off the break. Not just creeping forward but, moving at the pace of a slight jog. I did not touch the throttle trim on the remote, or the HSN.

As the 2nd tank was winding down (approximately 1/4 tank left) the unit began to stall. I only let it stall out 3 times, and each time it was after a 2 second count at 1/2 throttle and after I let off the break it creeped forward and died.

I did not have a infrared thermometer at the time, but I do now. There was thick blue smoke coming out of the engine when the throttle was applied and a slight smoke screen when idling.

Also, when started, if the rear wheels are off the ground (ie. unit is on a block) they begin to speed up and the engine begins increasing in RPM's. I can hear it speeding up and you can see the tires begin to spin progressively faster. As soon as the break is applied they stop, but once the break is released they speed up again. But like I mentioned, if the unit is on the ground it will simply speed up to a jog like pace.

I was told to turn the HSN 1/8 to the left to richen the fuel mixture, and to continue doing this untill it stops moving forward on it's own. Should I do anything to the Throttle Trim on my remote? Anything to the LSN or HSN.

Considering I have little experience, I do not want to ruin this engine before I even break it in. Also, one has to start somewhere.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,

Marc

 

[Suicide]

take off your air filter and set your idle gap to 1-2mm. hold the brakes to get an accurate measure. after you get the idle reset then see if you still have those symptoms

 

[md519]

Is this ok to do even if I haven't finished breaking it in yet?

Which screw do I turn in order to change the spacing?

 

[Suicide]

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832 read through this. DO NOT tune for performance until after the rig has had probly a quart through it. also are you cooling it at the bottom dead center.

 

[md519]

Looking at the unit right now and it doesn't seem like my LSN is flush with the edge of the slide valve. But like I said, I haven't touched the settings at all.

The LSN is probably a millimeter out to far. Could this be the culprit?

 

[gixxersixxerman]

i had the same problem... i was about to post it too.. according to factory spec the lsn is suppose to be flush, and i was having problems with stalling and it creeping forward... i set the carb to factory spec and it was pure crap,,, a very high idle if it even idled and shutting off all the time, bogging really bad, now its running pretty good with some minor fine tuning needed, and my lsn is about a mm out or so maybe a tad more, and the say the fluttering I'm having is because the lsn is still lean so we are having the same problem, also a friend got his the day i got mine and his was set like the book... so you got me man

 

[Suicide]

fluttering? like when you start it

 

[gixxersixxerman]

fluttering? like when you start it

No when I'm at full throttle and let off.... It will do what I can best describe as "flutter"....... Someone said lsn is lean???? I just don't wanna take it to the lhs because he wants fiffty just for a tune and I fill I'm so close to having it right

 

[revomaniac]

I would recommend that if your on your second tank. To set all the settings to factory settings and start break in all over again. I've had an issue similar to this one and all I did was reset all my settings and start the break in process all over again, and it worked for me. Also, your going to want to set your piston at BDC (bottom dead center) when the engine is shut off. This will keep your sleeve more pinched which means that it will last longer in the long run!