Revo 2.5r help!!!

[machinehed]

As long as it runs for more than 3mins. Doesn't stall when run to full throttle,then it may be to lean , enough fuel is being fed to run but not enough to cool,or not enough air to cool it,is the head exposed to air through the body ,does it stall without the body on?

 

[Muddy mike]

As long as it runs for more than 3mins. Doesn't stall when run to full throttle,then it may be to lean , enough fuel is being fed to run but not enough to cool,or not enough air to cool it,is the head exposed to air through the body ,does it stall without the body on?

I haven't even run it with the body yet just been doing test runs an counter clockwise it richen correct?

 

[machinehed]

Yes,

 

[machinehed]

Only turn it 1/8 of a turn at a time ,if you don't have a temp gun ,you can use a couple of drops of water on the head and if that water sizzles away super fast,it's too hot it should bubble and steam away slow,(about 240°)don't rely on this though,temp Guns are cheap and are your best friend.use it only to make sure you are not too hot.

 

[D3MON]

As long as it runs for more than 3mins. Doesn't stall when run to full throttle,then it may be to lean , enough fuel is being fed to run but not enough to cool,or not enough air to cool it,is the head exposed to air through the body ,does it stall without the body on?

Even when lean though it still should run, they are composite carbs so shouldn't be as prone to boiling off the carb, it will cut out and die a lot, either case I'd recommend bringing needles back to factory settings then go from there. Factory will be very rich. Start by warming the engine up and slowly( 1/8 turn at a time ,1/4 turn max) leaning the HSN, once you are getting good decent performance, not cutting out/or bogging down, and getting good exhaust smoke, lean the LSN, again 1/8 turn at a time making sure between adjustments to do a high speed pass then a "punch test" (stop the car, idle for 5-10 seconds, then punch the throttle). Also to double check the LSN pinch the line to the carb as close to the carb as possible, it should stay running for 3-5 seconds then rev up and die. If it revs and dies immediately its lean on the LSN, if it runs for longer then revs for a long time its rich.

 

[Muddy mike]

The remote is a basic Traxxas remote with reverse I'm not sure on the fuel it's red will get more information when I get home from work

The fuel is sidewinder RC fuel 20% and the remote is the Traxxas tq

 

[machinehed]

I used that before,made my cars run fussy,,gave it away,,,,Trinity 25%nitro monster,had this gallon for 7 years,and it still works great,raced around,for a tank the other day??

 

[D3MON]

The fuel is sidewinder RC fuel 20% and the remote is the Traxxas tq

honestly been my fuel of choice last year or so, I've been getting the 20% race blend (12% oil). runs great in both my small blocks and big blocks.

 

[D3MON]

I used that before,made my cars run fussy,,gave it away,,,,Trinity 25%nitro monster,had this gallon for 7 years,and it still works great,raced around,for a tank the other day??

man i remember when that was pretty much the go-to fuel for everyone back in the T-maxx/MGT/Savage days, was definitely some good stuff, think i still have a half jug somewhere of the 30% from 10 years ago. dont think id try using it, would make good nitro engine cleaner though. wish they still made it.

 

[machinehed]

honestly been my fuel of choice last year or so, I've been getting the 20% race blend (12% oil). runs great in both my small blocks and big blocks.

How's it running,any luck?

 

[R/C Ambassador]

Hello everyone I have a Revo that I purchased that had sat for quite some time everything gummed up I got it cleaned out for the most part it starts and runs but it will die after 5 minutes I said it back to factory tuning can anybody help me please and thank you in advance

Assuming you cleaned the engine properly. The engine is of ABC, construction. Aluminum piston, brass sleeve, and chrome liner on the sleeve. All of these metals expand at different temperatures, and the tolerance's of nitro engines are very tight
If the previous owner ran the engine too hot, too cold, or allowed dirt to be introduced into the cylinder, there is a chance the "pinch zone" in the engine has been compromised. When this happens, a cold engine can start and appear to run normal (now think back to the metal expansion), but when the engine heats up the cylinder wall will expand beyond the factory ID (inner diameter) tolerance, compression will "blow-by" the piston engine dies. Hope this helps.