Build Thread Resurrecting the NitroHawk

[CertifiedMike]

I see your struggle with the wheels. You may get the epoxy and bearings to set correctpy in thr wheels but if ypu're slightly off, the wobble will likely be bad.
Why not buy a set of proper wheels (correct bearing set up) and buy a set of bearings to fit?
Have you looked into 2wd vs 4wd Rustler wheels? Maybe it was nitro vs electric but I seem to recall a difference in hex vs bearing type wheels.
Bearings are pretty easy to find in all different sizes. Getting some for your car should be no problem at all.
You could look into other brands of rims too.
I am pretty positive there is a simple and cost effective solution that doesn't involve epoxy and wobble.

https://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/wheels

 

[Mister 4x4]

Hey Mike - yes, I did look into the differences between the Nitro Hawk, Nitro Rustler (both 2WD & 4WD) and electric Rustler (both 2WD & 4WD) wheels. I downloaded the Illustrated Parts Breakdown (IPD) PDFs for each model and side-by-side compared the steering assemblies between them.

As I mentioned above, the big difference between the Hawk and Rustlers is front axle technology. The Hawk has a fixed 4mm threaded axle stub, which the wheel bearings (2 ea) ride on and are cinched down with a 4mm nylock nut. Very Simple design.

The next gen Rustlers went with hex drives on the back side of the wheels both front and rear (to save money, probably), and a 'floating' axle design in the front hubs for the 2WD, with an active hex-driven axle for the 4WD. The 2WD's 4mm axle spins in the bearings, which are located into the steering hub assembly, with the hex key affixed to it with a pin and the wheels are cinched down with a 4mm nylock nut. Still simple, but the axle shaft itself is what spins, whether driven or not. That way, they use the same hex drive wheels front and rear, thus saving money.

It's also not as simple as swapping out the steering hubs, since they use slightly different designs and tie-rods. I'd literally have to swap the entire steering assembly in order to use the $26/pair of RXT rims/tires (might as well just go buy a 2WD Rustler)... or, I can sacrifice the relatively cheap wheels to make 'em work.... or, I can just keep 'em for use with the rears (since they fit back there with no problems).

Here's a thought: anybody willing to 3D print a set of hex drives with 8mm center holes and 5mm(deep)x11mm(diameter) pockets (for bearings)? Rather than drop-in the epoxy into the wheels, the hex drives could be dropped-in and loaded-up with a set of bearings, then I'd just load a set of bearings in the front side of the wheels. I actually do have a set of hex drives I can sacrifice as well... just gotta drill-out a 5x11mm pocket in each (I have access to a nice drill press).

BTW - So far, none of those vintage wheels at JCRacing will work. Most are pin-drive rears and skinny fronts. I'm needing hex drive rears, no-drive fronts, both full-width (stadium truck, not buggy). Thanks just the same - I bookmarked that site for future reference.

 

[CertifiedMike]

You don't like the Jato 3.3 wheel size?

 

[Mister 4x4]

Actually, yes. Those are Traxxas All-Stars, and I'd be quite happy with a set of the 5578s and 5577s mounted on the Anaconda tires... but I have a full set of RTXs already mounted with Anacondas, along with the Rustler split spoke (with pins and slots). I'd ordered them before I did all that research thinking that the Rustler and Nitro Hawk shared the same front hubs. Nope - they changed 'em.

I'll probably order a set of the All-Stars w/Anacondas, now that I know they have a non-hex/bearing style wheel like I need.

The problem I'm having is not having a well-stocked Traxxas outlet where I can go put 'eyes-on' the actual parts I think I need. Even the Traxxas site where you can punch in part numbers and see a picture of the part, doesn't offer enough information about each part to be of much help. I'm trying to retrofit modern parts onto a 32-yr-old+ chassis, after all.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Jennysrc.com
Contact them with your questions about their parts. They are REAL good about helping folks retro fit parts that 'don't belong'.
A lot of their parts have specs listed.
Don't let the age of the kit or other ppl's lack of knowledge/interest discourage you from finding your parts.
Jennys sells parts. Parts only.
Traxxas want you to throw that buggy away and replace it with a new one and a new one after that!
I think its been a bitter pill for some RC companies to swallow. Making parts for old cars and re releasing cars discontinued 30 years ago is sort of contrary to their working business model I think.
This NitroHawk is gonna be great!!!

 

[Mister 4x4]

Been a minute - apologies. Been busy with some 'life' stuff, and finally got back to this. Here we go!

I tried sneaking around the servos and whatnot with a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol, but that was taking too long, so I pulled the servos. Also needed to figure out how to address the new rear bulkhead I need for the new body mounts.

Well - that was easy. Spritzed on some Simple Green, drafted an old toothbrush and went to town. The balloon remnants are just going to have to stay for now. I went a different direction with the rear body mounts - I'd bought a Traxxas parts kit with several different pieces and with some test fitting, figured out I could get away with just mounting this one to the rear bulkhead.

All back together again! Just gotta run the wiring for the electrics, get some new fuel line, mount the new receiver, plug it all in, and find a proper nipple for the exhaust pressure return line.

Different angle - I'm really diggin' the new rear body mount. I changed out the front pegs for some others in the kit which should help level the body a bit better.

Still need to punch the mounting holes and trim the wheel openings, but this is the general idea.

I need to do a little bit of tweaking to the rear wing to make it work again - we'll see. I definitely need to get this thing going - I can't wait to hear it scream again.