Restoration Project #11 - HPI Savage XL 5.9 - Locked up rear diff/wheels

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AAAAAAAND she (or is it a he?) finally shifts!!!

After taking the gearbox out and putting it back around 6-7 times, I first tuned the 2nd, while keeping the 3rd complete locked in.
Once I finely tuned 2nd shift, I put the gearbox together for the final time, applied some thread lock on clutch bolts, and then tuned the 3rd from the outside.
Got the second to shift early, then 3rd a bit later, sounds awesome.
Need to buy a damn go pro, so I can film all this.

Now, I have another issues, a screw (see pic) that holds the brake disks, constantly kept pissing me off and coming out, making my brakes complete useless while I was tuning the gearbox. No matter how many times I tightened it, it just kept unscrewing. I have applied some super glue now to the threads, have not tested, but hopefully it does not come out anymore.

Also, it seems my one way bearing is on its way out.....
Oh how I love nitros!

sav9.jpg
 
One way bearing its toast, and I wasn't even forcing/flooded starting it...
Great, thing is, its not just a OWB that 5.9 has, OWB is actually pressed into another piece which then turns the engine.
Had a look 50 USD for just that part.
Will have to remove the engine again, and see if its OWB or the little pin that locks into the crank that has snapped off.
 
Guys I am not keen on paying 100 NZD for a one way bearing.
I see this is not a hex usual type of OWB they use in the RC's, it is completely round.
I can get a bearing for $5, and am thinking of just heating it up and knocking it out, then inserting the new bearing.
OWB is labeled as HF0612

What do you think?

New Bearing

New OWB


Old OWB in the photos

thumbnail_IMG_8719.jpg


thumbnail_IMG_8720.jpg
 
Guys I am not keen on paying 100 NZD for a one way bearing.
I see this is not a hex usual type of OWB they use in the RC's, it is completely round.
I can get a bearing for $5, and am thinking of just heating it up and knocking it out, then inserting the new bearing.
OWB is labeled as HF0612

What do you think?

New Bearing

New OWB


Old OWB in the photos

View attachment 155440

View attachment 155441

That is the horrors of an internal o-way bearing ,mine ,I had that pin snap off!
I was also thinking that maybe one can press a new bearing in!..:thumbs-up:
 
That is the horrors of an internal o-way bearing ,mine ,I had that pin snap off!
I was also thinking that maybe one can press a new bearing in!..:thumbs-up:

A very major design flaw if you ask me. That pin should have been a lot meatier.
Are you not able to to drill out the pin, its also just pressed in.

Just purchased a INA German OWB for 10 USD, will let you know how it goes with pressing it in.
I have had bad experiences with cheap OWB from ali express, they just end up slipping.
 
In the meantime while I wait for the bearing to arrive, I have decided to clean the old one, grease it and then apply gasket sealer again to the backplate and close it all up.
5.9 requires removal of the back plate in order to take the OWB out.
Lets see how it fares, gotta feeling I will be opening it up again very soon :)
I can't see how cleaning it would help much (although some ppl on the internet say it worked) as it bathes in oil anyway while running.
 
@cbaker65

Would you mind taking a photo of your mid range needle, I would just like to compare it to mine.
Manuals says flush, but its not flush on my savage, I wonder if the previous owner fiddled with it.
A photo under an angle, so I can see its position would be great, or a few photos with different angles.

Cheers
 
@cbaker65

Would you mind taking a photo of your mid range needle, I would just like to compare it to mine.
Manuals says flush, but its not flush on my savage, I wonder if the previous owner fiddled with it.
A photo under an angle, so I can see its position would be great, or a few photos with different angles.

Cheers

I will do it tomorrow ,I just came in from the casino an I had just put that truck out in the
shed yesterday!
I havent got around to buy the glow plug for it yet!
It is suppose to be flush but not from the outside of the housing ,there is a little lip
on the inside ,or do flush with the outside housing an do one turn in ,will put you
on that little lip on the inside ,it is like a little step down on the inside!
 
I will do it tomorrow ,I just came in from the casino an I had just put that truck out in the
shed yesterday!
I havent got around to buy the glow plug for it yet!
It is suppose to be flush but not from the outside of the housing ,there is a little lip
on the inside ,or do flush with the outside housing an do one turn in ,will put you
on that little lip on the inside ,it is like a little step down on the inside!

Thanks!

Do you mean this inner lip as per pic?
Sorry Curtis, I am still confused, you said that even a hairline adjustment can make a big difference, now in the 5.9 manual, the MID needle is says to be flush BUT the "line" on the head of the needle runs vertical, like 12 to 6 o'clock vertical, does that make sense?
I am not sure whether I am expressing myself correctly here?
If the manual is to be trusted, then my MID needle is off, as its not adjusted so that the head groove/line is going vertical?



sav10.jpg


sav11.jpg
 
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Ok, so I have been doing a bit of digging around for information about the MID needle on the 5.9.
From what I could source, this is not a MID needle and only a seating for LSN to go into.
It is said that it does not matter in which position it is in, as long as the pin hole on the needle is facing upwards and is in the middle of the HSN housing hole, you have to remove the HSN housing to see this, once it centered that's it.
True or False I don't know, will have to test this in the next few days.
 
Ok, so I have been doing a bit of digging around for information about the MID needle on the 5.9.
From what I could source, this is not a MID needle and only a seating for LSN to go into.
It is said that it does not matter in which position it is in, as long as the pin hole on the needle is facing upwards and is in the middle of the HSN housing hole, you have to remove the HSN housing to see this, once it centered that's it.
True or False I don't know, will have to test this in the next few days.

Yea ,that is the lip!
I heard that too on the mid too an I think that JQ did a vid on him pointing the upwards!
 
Hey Curtis

I experimented with this yesterday, and yes, there was no performance difference when tuning in or out the MID needle, except the LSN being either too rich or too lean, which confirms the theory of the MID needle only serving as a seat for LSN.
 
Crashed into a parked car (tyre) and broke the right hand side lower A arm.
Steering on this thing is quite sloppy from factory, I will look at putting bearings in the bell crank.
Waiting on spares from Jenny RC.
 
Hello everyone

So, as I assumed, yesterday went outside for a run in the park, first thing OWB slipped, no way to start it.
We ended up running mates T-maxx.

Just made me realize how flawed this engine really is, especially with OWB being inside the engine, which needs backplate removal to get to.
I see they have moved away from this design and the new F5.9 engine uses a similar design as the more reliable 4.6, where OWB is on the outside.

I wonder if I purchased parts for new F5.9, whether some conversion is possible.

On top of this as discussed before, I had to knock out the OWB from the assembly, then press in the new OWB with a vice.
1670360621484.png


Maybe, its possible to rid of this shaft holder, and replace it with this..... these parts are now on a redesigned F5.9 engine.

1670360706314.png

1670360730414.png

EDIT:

Just did a bit more digging, parts are not compatible, it needs a new backplate as well, probably new crankshaft as well.
Basically not worth it, lets see how long it lasts with a new OWB.
 
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