Replace piston and Sleeve or just the ring??

[D3MON]

A lot of info here. Thanks a lot. Appreciate it. So the reason i think it got too hot. I read on some forums and also watching some Youtube vids that you should heat with a heat gun before starting. I think i might have cooked it by over heating it before starting it.

Sorry this turned into a mini-novel
nitro engines "cook" at around/over 300F /150C, at that temperature the internals are able to start to deform from heat and either ease compression by narrowing the piston, or it will "smear" the piston on the inside of the sleeve. typically bumping 300F occasionally wont be enough to kill the engine but sustained will start to do its work.
you SHOULD pre-heat, make sure to to heat the engine as uniformly as possible and using swirling motions to prevent getting certain spots to hot and expand unevenly.
i do not forsee that you would have heated it up to that temperature with a heat gun but anything is possible.
that said if you left the piston at the top when you were done that can cause it to loose pinch (compression-sort of). this wont immediately kill the engine, but is not healthy for it and will expedite its departure.

The way you were saying it was cutting out at WOT, leads me to believe you were most likely lean on the HSN.
when these nitro engines start to give the ghost, the engine will typically stall when warmed up as there is not enough compression when everything is expanded, and not be able to re-start until cooled off. you can mechanically check this by removing the piston and sleeve from the engine, then (in the same orientation/spin) that you removed them, GENTLY push the piston into the sleeve, and see where the top of the piston stops. if it stops below the top of the sleeve, usually still good to go for awhile. if it pushes beyond the top of the sleeve, its worn out.
!!!make sure when re-assembling to have the piston and sleeve rotated correctly!!!
you CAN get the piston and sleeve "pinched" you will want to send out the piston and sleeve to someone with the propper tooling and they will use a chuck device to pinch the sleeve giving the engine compression again.
this usually costs around 30$ rayaracing.com is a good known person for this at a good price.
DO NOT use a hose clamp to "pinch and engine", this may "work" for a light pinch but hose clamps do not clamp uniformly, and will oval the sleeve out making it junk.

if it is in fact too damaged for repair, you "can" get parts for that engine, Thunder Tiger was making those engines till a few years ago, but here in the states at least, they were not as popular so parts can be hard to find. make sure to find a manual and start searching up the part numbers. that said, it usually costs more to get piston/sleeve/piston rod/bearings, than it is to just buy a cheap SH18. for general use/abuse i would recommend the SH18 as a replacement. but make sure to get the correct crankshaft version, or make sure to get the correct crankshaft/clutch parts to make it work.

 

[j77456]

Sorry this turned into a mini-novel
nitro engines "cook" at around/over 300F /150C, at that temperature the internals are able to start to deform from heat and either ease compression by narrowing the piston, or it will "smear" the piston on the inside of the sleeve. typically bumping 300F occasionally wont be enough to kill the engine but sustained will start to do its work.
you SHOULD pre-heat, make sure to to heat the engine as uniformly as possible and using swirling motions to prevent getting certain spots to hot and expand unevenly.
i do not forsee that you would have heated it up to that temperature with a heat gun but anything is possible.
that said if you left the piston at the top when you were done that can cause it to loose pinch (compression-sort of). this wont immediately kill the engine, but is not healthy for it and will expedite its departure.

The way you were saying it was cutting out at WOT, leads me to believe you were most likely lean on the HSN.
when these nitro engines start to give the ghost, the engine will typically stall when warmed up as there is not enough compression when everything is expanded, and not be able to re-start until cooled off. you can mechanically check this by removing the piston and sleeve from the engine, then (in the same orientation/spin) that you removed them, GENTLY push the piston into the sleeve, and see where the top of the piston stops. if it stops below the top of the sleeve, usually still good to go for awhile. if it pushes beyond the top of the sleeve, its worn out.
!!!make sure when re-assembling to have the piston and sleeve rotated correctly!!!
you CAN get the piston and sleeve "pinched" you will want to send out the piston and sleeve to someone with the propper tooling and they will use a chuck device to pinch the sleeve giving the engine compression again.
this usually costs around 30$ rayaracing.com is a good known person for this at a good price.
DO NOT use a hose clamp to "pinch and engine", this may "work" for a light pinch but hose clamps do not clamp uniformly, and will oval the sleeve out making it junk.

if it is in fact too damaged for repair, you "can" get parts for that engine, Thunder Tiger was making those engines till a few years ago, but here in the states at least, they were not as popular so parts can be hard to find. make sure to find a manual and start searching up the part numbers. that said, it usually costs more to get piston/sleeve/piston rod/bearings, than it is to just buy a cheap SH18. for general use/abuse i would recommend the SH18 as a replacement. but make sure to get the correct crankshaft version, or make sure to get the correct crankshaft/clutch parts to make it work.

Thanks for the Novel lol. A great read and super insightful. I really appreciate it.