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Rebuilt Rear Diff, Noticed CVD Wear. Now CVD's or Bones?

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olds97_lss

olds97_lss

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Hey guys,

I just tore my rear end apart on the savage. My first diff work since I've had it. It lasted 5 gallons... then I heard it jump a tooth now and then on hard landings. This is the first time I touched the diff's... man, is there a lot of parts to get at that thing or what!

Anyway, the only thing that looked worn was the pinion gear and the rails in the cup. The ring gear looked fine, filthy, but fine. The spider gears and the gears they run on looked just like the new ones I bought for back up. The spider shafts showed no wear either. What I did notice is that all 4 screws holding the spur on the cup were loose. One was about a full turn and the other three were about 1/2 turn which was causing the ring gear to walk around and chew up the pinion. At least, that's my best guess.

With the new cup, I used machine screws instead of the coarse threaded ones that were holding the ring gear on. I also cleaned all the gears to get all the gook out of them. I used 3000 wieght silicone oil in the cup. From what I've read, that's heavy enough for the rear.

When I re-installed the skid plate, I pulled the al part from the plastic part, cleaned the space where they touch and ran a bead of silicone around the square hole that is an indent for the ring gear. Then I also put silicone around the square hole of the diff case. I did this in hopes to keep all the dirt that was in there from getting in again. Anyone bother with doing this? Wasn't sure if it was worth the effort, but it only took a few minutes anyway.

Well, upon further inspection, I noticed my cvd knuckle is really sloppy worn. What have you all used? They are HB cvd's I think. Should I spend the money on cvd's again or just go with the stock HD bones and cups?

Thanks.
 
You need to take a closer look at the inside of the diff cups. The pin the spider gears roll on tends to make the slot into a T at the bottom. 3 savages diffs went that way a couple of weeks ago for a few guys at the track, and since the first one was replaced with an aluminum cup, so were the other two.
 
Olds, I can tell you for sure that the silicone oil will run out of the diff so excpect to tear down and relube often. It won't last as long as the grease but will work better.
 
You mgiht want to go back to sock bones. I have run them and had no problem.

Other than the fact the make a lot of noise cp,pared to my maxx mip's.
 
If I wanted to go with a set of cvd's which manufactors to i purchase?
 
Try MIP.
 
them sob's are expensive!!
How about another brand thats just as good just not as costly
 
I am not familar with any other brand.
 
I've had HB and RDLogics. The HB ones lasted considerably longer. My RDLogics only have a couple gallons on them and they are in sad sad shape. At least the center ones are. The outside ones look fine.
 
New Era makes some Ti. HD dogbones. I'm pretty sure UE makes some savage CVDs... MIP are probably the most common...
 
Well i broke my first dogbone today and i think I am going to order the hot bodies cvd's.

Is it strange that a front db broke?
I figured the rear would be the first to go.
 

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