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RCS Cybermaxx project!!!
- Thread starter .21Rc10GT
- Start date
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Mortifyd_Penguin
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Wow, nice and shiny. I can't wait to see it all nasty and abused. that thing should hold up like a :tank:
scottm
Hardcore RCTalk User
That is looking awesome! Is that an RCS spur gear? I didn't know you got thzat too.
Hey scott, do the towers lower the upper shock position???
and do you have body posts that can go directly on the tower?
Nice build.....
and do you have body posts that can go directly on the tower?
Nice build.....
Hey man that is awesome!!!!
how have you been doing? I want to build something like that someday. I finally got my Rc10 up a d running and that thing is insane lol I can't believe how fast it gets going,I can't imagine how fast yours is with the .21 how do you get any traction? Mine spins the tires half way down the street! Anyway sweet Maxx can't wait to see it done!
how have you been doing? I want to build something like that someday. I finally got my Rc10 up a d running and that thing is insane lol I can't believe how fast it gets going,I can't imagine how fast yours is with the .21 how do you get any traction? Mine spins the tires half way down the street! Anyway sweet Maxx can't wait to see it done!
.21Rc10GT
Hardcore RCTalk User
- Thread starter
- #31
Update on the Maxx project. I got the servos in along with the engine and fuel tank. Everything is fitting great, with the exception of the .01mm clearance between the head and the cage... The battery pack wont fit either... i need to drill some new holes... I will take some pics tonight...
Mortifyd_Penguin
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Common, you got the pics yet ::biting nails in anticipation::
rc10gt1980
RCTalk Basher
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i just seen the pics on pg2 that is insane now i can't wait to c the finished project!!!!! what body r u going with?
Take a look at my thread when it comes time to install the ProLine steering kit. I had some issues with it and ended up having to install it backwards. Sounds weird but it worked great if not better then the original. It will reduce the length of the turnbuckle by 60%. Doing this strengthens this part of the project. With an RC that is this heavy, its a good thing.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=48737&postcount=101
I still have several major components and a lot of extra parts left from what used to be my Cyber including the modified steering kit. If your interested let me know. If nothing else I can take some detailed pics if they aren't in my thread.
I'm just over the hill from you and don't mind lending you my knowledge as one of the pioneers in building a full blown Cyber.
Thats one sexy beast you got going there!
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=48737&postcount=101
I still have several major components and a lot of extra parts left from what used to be my Cyber including the modified steering kit. If your interested let me know. If nothing else I can take some detailed pics if they aren't in my thread.
I'm just over the hill from you and don't mind lending you my knowledge as one of the pioneers in building a full blown Cyber.
Thats one sexy beast you got going there!
scottm
Hardcore RCTalk User
Listen to Fasteddy, he is very old and fairly wise :idea:
Actually Eddy and the late Christian bought two of the first kits sold, at the rcx show in may '03. They helped evolve the design by bringing up new 'challenges', like putting in big engines that we hadn't tried yet.
Actually Eddy and the late Christian bought two of the first kits sold, at the rcx show in may '03. They helped evolve the design by bringing up new 'challenges', like putting in big engines that we hadn't tried yet.
I kept the drive shafts as my weak link and used stock parts. If I remember correctly I got a bag of them and cut the sliders to length. I never had an issue with the shafts themselves braking but replace them every mow and them due to wearing of the holes that the universals mount in. At that time the Revo wasn't out yet and I used the 2.5 parts.
Its nice to think you have built a bullet proof RC but ill say this once, You NEED a weak link. Something has to give. The drive shafts are the easiest to change and the least expensive to replace. If you don't, you will be replacing trany gears. I know this from experience.
I didn't have the 1/8th diffs and the gearing that went along with them. This may change the torque geometry from what I was working with. I went with the RRP E-MAXX double slipper. It aloud a larger spur to be used and took the torque off the drive train. The E-Maxx has a lot more torque then the T and was designed to do just that. In turn I used a smaller clutch bell. Again I think the difs you have may in fact do the same.
Slipper adjustment on a truck with this much weight and torque is one of the most important factors you will run into once you are up and going. Get a bag of pads and check them every chance you get. The slipper adjustment and maintenance will either save you or kill you! On a full blown CM it is the single most important drive train part. If you go with solid drive shafts the issue is compounded and its your ONLY life line to keep you healthy. Get the best you can find. You may even want to look at using the RRP slipper that allows you to use a plastic spur ring. If the slipper locks up, the spur will take the hit rather then the transmission.
Its nice to think you have built a bullet proof RC but ill say this once, You NEED a weak link. Something has to give. The drive shafts are the easiest to change and the least expensive to replace. If you don't, you will be replacing trany gears. I know this from experience.
I didn't have the 1/8th diffs and the gearing that went along with them. This may change the torque geometry from what I was working with. I went with the RRP E-MAXX double slipper. It aloud a larger spur to be used and took the torque off the drive train. The E-Maxx has a lot more torque then the T and was designed to do just that. In turn I used a smaller clutch bell. Again I think the difs you have may in fact do the same.
Slipper adjustment on a truck with this much weight and torque is one of the most important factors you will run into once you are up and going. Get a bag of pads and check them every chance you get. The slipper adjustment and maintenance will either save you or kill you! On a full blown CM it is the single most important drive train part. If you go with solid drive shafts the issue is compounded and its your ONLY life line to keep you healthy. Get the best you can find. You may even want to look at using the RRP slipper that allows you to use a plastic spur ring. If the slipper locks up, the spur will take the hit rather then the transmission.
Its your project and your doing a great job.
Don't let the illusion of being built proof get in the way of reality. It will brake and it will brake at the weakest point. Its best to choose where that is rather then accepting what is handed to you. The voice of experience has taught me this.
Don't let the illusion of being built proof get in the way of reality. It will brake and it will brake at the weakest point. Its best to choose where that is rather then accepting what is handed to you. The voice of experience has taught me this.