RC Body Armor

[requiem33]

Thought I'd share some pictures of my new body. I layered the inside (after painting) with Dragon Skin and then used the RC Armor piping around the edge of the body. This body is going to the USRC Finals this weekend at Adrenaline RC so I'll see how well it holds up.

 

[Doom!]

The Body Armor Dragon Skin is pretty cool. They just warn you not to get it wet. I bought some but haven't decided which body to use it on.

 

[remote uncontrol]

I use the piping but I haven’t tried the dragon skin yet. It looks amazing

 

[bill_delong]

looks great, Dragon Skin is a must for me as well as the original Body Armor product I rarely need to paint new bodies anymore

Installation Videos

 

[gragner66]

This stuff looks cool. Never heard of it. Not even using shoe glue. lol. May have to do a buggy body with it

 

[kdecesari]

The Body Armor Dragon Skin is pretty cool. They just warn you not to get it wet. I bought some but haven't decided which body to use it on.

The Dragon Skin product does look cool.
I looked around for more info about getting it wet, but didn’t find any reference to moisture & avoiding it. Where did that come from?
I am interested to try it out, but don’t want to be concerned about water/rain on outdoor race days.

Does anyone here have experience with the product in wet environments?

I am prepping to paint some new bodies. This is one option & shoe goo + drywall tape is another.

Thanks for any info.

 

[requiem33]

The Dragon Skin product does look cool.
I looked around for more info about getting it wet, but didn’t find any reference to moisture & avoiding it. Where did that come from?
I am interested to try it out, but don’t want to be concerned about water/rain on outdoor race days.

Does anyone here have experience with the product in wet environments?

I am prepping to paint some new bodies. This is one option & shoe goo + drywall tape is another.

Thanks for any info.

The info about not getting it wet is included in the directions. I think it's also mentioned in the installation video from the website. If you can't find it I can dig up a direct link to it.

Like with any paper/fabric tape you don't want to soak it. Washing with a cloth and spray bottle wiping it clean dry has not damaged any of my bodies yet. I've ran on wet/moist clay tracks and have not had any problems. I would not go running through puddles and splashing large amounts of water or dipping the body into a bucket though.

To add extra durability you can always apply shoe goo which would add more water resistance and strength.

 

[kdecesari]

The info about not getting it wet is included in the directions. I think it's also mentioned in the installation video from the website. If you can't find it I can dig up a direct link to it.

Like with any paper/fabric tape you don't want to soak it. Washing with a cloth and spray bottle wiping it clean dry has not damaged any of my bodies yet. I've ran on wet/moist clay tracks and have not had any problems. I would not go running through puddles and splashing large amounts of water or dipping the body into a bucket though.

To add extra durability you can always apply shoe goo which would add more water resistance and strength.

Alright. Cool. Thanks for the follow up.
I must have missed the video that included that detail. I thought I watched the appropriate one on their website. The YT videos I found didn’t address it either.
The tape-moisture detail makes sense & is what led me to ask the question.

If the process still requires the use of shoe goo, then I am not sure about the real value it offers. Weight savings is a significant benefit I thought was on the table.

On to the next…

 

[requiem33]

If the process still requires the use of shoe goo

It does not require shoe goo. I don't shoe goo any of my bodies. I mentioned it as you "could" do it if you really felt it was necessary. The only step I would say to make sure you do is to use heat (blow dryer or heat gun) after you finish to heat up the tape glue so it really bonds well.

 

[requiem33]

Full Instructions from Brent Jackson (Owner) of RC Body Armor:

Step 1. Body needs to be clean and dry.
Step 2. Cut small 1 inch and 2 inch wide strips of Dragon Skin.
Tip: Cut skin while the backer is on, once backer off it is difficult to cut. Don't try to cover too much area at once, use small strips and overlap.
Step 3: Apply strips in the difficult part of bodies, inside the grooves and curves. Use smaller pieces as needed.
Step 4: Keep applying strips and overlapping as needed. It is okay to have multiple layers.
Tip: I use multiple layers in spots that are either known to break or spot that paint gets rubbed off. All bodies are different and need reinforcement in different areas.
Step 5: Once coverage of Dragon Skin is applied, use a heat gun or hot hair drier to heat up the Dragon Skin... this burns off frayed ends and activates the adhesive. Once warm, rub the Dragon Skin again pressing it into grooves.

Tip: Quick passes of a lighter flame works really well for burning off any frayed ends.

The Dragon Skin is now applied. If you want more strength, you can do what I do and cover the Dragon Skin with E6000 in spots that typically crack or get rubbed by kit, like the front clip and over the ESC.

As the instructions state, Dragon Skin is NOT liquid proof. I suggest sealing the skin with E6000 or Shoe Goo on Nitros and basher bodies.
It is super lightweight, only weighs 4 grams per sheet or 16 grams for the entire pack.

 

[kdecesari]

Full Instructions from Brent Jackson (Owner) of RC Body Armor:

Step 1. Body needs to be clean and dry.
Step 2. Cut small 1 inch and 2 inch wide strips of Dragon Skin.
Tip: Cut skin while the backer is on, once backer off it is difficult to cut. Don't try to cover too much area at once, use small strips and overlap.
Step 3: Apply strips in the difficult part of bodies, inside the grooves and curves. Use smaller pieces as needed.
Step 4: Keep applying strips and overlapping as needed. It is okay to have multiple layers.
Tip: I use multiple layers in spots that are either known to break or spot that paint gets rubbed off. All bodies are different and need reinforcement in different areas.
Step 5: Once coverage of Dragon Skin is applied, use a heat gun or hot hair drier to heat up the Dragon Skin... this burns off frayed ends and activates the adhesive. Once warm, rub the Dragon Skin again pressing it into grooves.

Tip: Quick passes of a lighter flame works really well for burning off any frayed ends.

The Dragon Skin is now applied. If you want more strength, you can do what I do and cover the Dragon Skin with E6000 in spots that typically crack or get rubbed by kit, like the front clip and over the ESC.

As the instructions state, Dragon Skin is NOT liquid proof. I suggest sealing the skin with E6000 or Shoe Goo on Nitros and basher bodies.
It is super lightweight, only weighs 4 grams per sheet or 16 grams for the entire pack.

You are a true hero.
Thanks.