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rant. My condensed 2 weeks of disasters

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M

mrmattyp

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A condensed point form verion of my first two weeks with my new 3.3

Broken in, truck begins over heating. Currently running it 5 turns out for proper temps.

Broken Rear Turnbuckle
Broken Clutch Shoe
Cracked front bulkhead. ok so i had a dew incidents.

Fixed it all after tearing the front end apart including the front diff.

Only to have my neighbour/best friend drift it into a curb snapping both rear blukheads off. i could have cried.

Lesson learned. No one drives my truck. Hes replacing it with aluminum blukheads and aluminum kids plates.

Possible damage to the wheel carrier.

OH and i might as well change my front bearing at the flywheel too, because the inside of my body has a nice line of nitro spray all across the top.
Which i suspect is why my temps are off, its sucking in way to much air, and needs that much nitro to make a proper mixture.

On a scale of 1-10 how difficult is changing the front bearing? Opening my front diff was easy to me.
WoW
 
get some unlimited engineering bulkheads and rpm arms and skids.
 
stick with the stock bulkheads,the only aluminum ones worth using will cost alot,install the rpm bulkhead braces and you'll be set,i have the rpm skid plate protectors on my 3.3 maxx,they will save your stock skid plates from a ton of abuse.here's a pic of my maxx with the rpm skid plates.

006-1.webp
 
Aluminum bulks don't cost that much, but stock ones are cheap. Those skid protectors are UGLY. New skids and metal brace are $10 shipped. You could buy the good parts once, or be like my numb a.$., and scavenge peoples stock junk off ebay for dirt cheap! So far I've got 16 a-arms on back up, 4 f/r bulks and a pile of turnbuckles for under $30. Ridiculous, I know.
 
buy any aluminum bulks besides ue or flm and you'll be wasting your money,the skid protectors may be ugly but they do what there made for,take a lot of abuse.:D
 
Personally, I would ditch the RPM front/rear skids (at least do away with the front) and get RCS spring steel skids along with almost any brand of alloy bulk.The RPM front skid for me acted like a shovel on high angle nose landings, which in turn rips the screws out of the bulks.

As for alloy bulks, unless your getting GA 7075 bulks, they are probably going to wear over time on the hinge pin holes or bend if you hit a brick wall. So, if you want to go cheap, don't think it's the last time, but they will still be less likely to break than stock. FLM has a good price on theirs. Just get good hinge pins (lunsford) and you should be free of bulk related failure for a while.

As for the front bearing replacement, you have to take the engine completely apart, I mean completely. To where all you have left is the crank case and bearings. Then you can put it in the oven and heat it up to 250-300F (maybe hotter) then punch the bearings out. Some come out easy, but most don't. Most also don't go in easy. Heat the crank case and put the bearings in the fridge to cool them, then drop them in when the case is hot and bearings are cool and it should go easier.
 

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