question about thr. servo

[big jilm]

Look guys, I have noticed that my carb slide will only open about half way when I give the remote full throttle.. I've been playing with the linkage to try and get it opened more but not stay open when I'm stoped..
Will a better (stronger) servo fix this problem or is the slide not ment to fully open????

 

[olds97_lss]

How far will it open if you take off the throttle return spring? The revo's TRS is known for being far to stiff for the servo on that thing and the linkage setup. The spring is stronger than the servo and if you get a servo that can push it, the wire bends. At least that's what I ran into.

Getting a more "typical" TRS and changing your linkage so your servo pushes the throttle closed will allow it to work better and still be safe.

First take off the TRS and see if the servo will open the throttle all the way. If it won't, then you will need to fiddle with the arm on the carb and possibly rotate the carb itself to get more movement.

Even then, I'd suggest buying a new piece of threaded end wire, a small captured ball end for the wire, a couple collars and a spring to do this:

I had to grind a little bit away on the pivot arm to clear the ball end, but the throttle worked really well after wards.

To get a bit more movement out of it, turn your little throttle arm on the carb like this yellow line:

Just make sure that at WOT, the little arm doesn't slip out of the slot.

I ended up switching out the servo for a 645MG. More torque for brakes.

 

[big jilm]

Thanks man.. Let me go
get tha truck and see what I'm working with...

 

[big jilm]

What I ended up doing was taking the TRS and streched it out a bit. Took the end that has the hook and looped it in order to shorten the spring back to proper lenght and that did the trick..
The slide returns to full stop on idle screw and the spring is alot more flexable.. The slide actuallyopens to the point that I can't see it looking down the air intake...


My next question is would that have a big inpact on tuning the engine.. I had this thing tuned and running strong until I replaced the clutch. The mesh was off when I put it back together so I fixed that and the tune has been impossible to get back right. I checked and replaced all fuel line and the mill seems to be sealed well.
I think when I put it back together the engine got tweeked a little from the ground wire being mounted under the motor.
Now that the slide opens all the way should I get more power??? I was having problems with heat as well and wondering if this could have caused some of that as well...
A little long winded guys but thanks for the help... Let me know what you guys think...

I ended up switching out the servo for a 645MG. More torque for brakes.

I hear that a lot but this truck will flip over the front tires if I hit the brakes to hard...

 

[olds97_lss]

For my servo, it wouldn't work well when snow was on it. The stock servo wouldn't even slow it down when the brake disk was wet. With a 645MG on there, it would. Then when dry in the summer, I'd just adjust my EPA.

As for your tune, you were more than likely tuning it with only 3/4 open throttle and now you will probably need to retune it completely since it's able to open up properly.

 

[andy_xr81]

i have a quck question on the brake linkage. hope u don;t mind it being in this thread. what should it look like when the truck is at idle with no brake applied? i am just not real clear on what the manual says.

 

[olds97_lss]

Pretty much like mine if you remove the spring/collar off the wire near the slider where it connects to the servo. At idle, the plastic slider should have a hair gap between the face of the slider and the collar on the wire itself. This is your mechanical "dead zone". So, you have put pull the trigger on your remote a bit before the wire moves.