• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

question about plastic c-clips on front a arms

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
pjoseph

pjoseph

RCTalk Qualifier
Messages
173
Reaction score
0
Points
91
Location
studio city CA
Not sure if their called c-clips, but i recently put the truck back together after rebuilding the diffs and i noticed when checking the front wheels for play the a arm will move/slide when i move one of the wheels by hand, is this normal?
I was thinking i may have those c-clips in the wrong spot, i was unable to find a clear picture of where exactly they should be in the manual. The attached photo shows where i have the c-clips, (see two red arrows)

Thanks again
 

Attachments

  • 20151021_215130.webp
    20151021_215130.webp
    43.2 KB · Views: 263
Those clips are spacers that determine the 'tilt' of the front wheels. This is known as CASTER. If you put them to the rear of the A-arms the steering will be more responsive. To the front and they will tilt back allowing for smoother steering and easier return to center. It's easy to experiment with them to see what kind of response you want and whether you prefer running on grass or a hard surface.
 
yea i found it in the manual after i made the post.
Should it be a snug fit with the 4 spacers on? Neither side on mine is a snug fit with the spacers in, and one side has more play than the other.
When i say play, i am talking about holding the upper a-arm and sliding it back and forth (front to rear of truck ect...)
I was thinking maybe some of the spacers have worn down some, was going to try out some new ones.

thanks again
 
Really shouldn't be MUCH play. You only need to place them in the front to hold the caster to the back, or place them in the back to hold it to the front. Want to split the difference then you'll need them front and rear. That's really not something that should wear. Maybe you're just one short.
 
i have 4 on each side so I'm not missing any, i first need to figure out why i have the extra play on the one side. i am pretty sure i would have noticed the play if it was their prior to me rebuilding the diffs ect....so i believe it has to do with me putting it back together.
I will see if i can get a good photo tomorrow, maybe someone will be able to spot something.

Thanks again for the help, appreciate it
 
According to the Revo manual, your options are 5, 10 or 15 degrees from vertical. You have yours at 10, as shown.
I can't imagine that whatever play you might be having would have any effect on handling. I doubt you could even fit another clip in there so the movement would barely be 1/16 of an inch.
 
the link below shows a photo of the gap on the bad side, this is with two clips in the front and two in the rear.
https://flic.kr/p/AbXEEA
i ended up fixing it today by adding in another plastic washer, it was snug at first so i had to also lightly sand the plastic c-clips to loosen it up.

Has anyone done the stub axle mod? I think i am going to do it on the front only for now. There are at least three different ways to do the mod that i came across all of them had great step by step with photos. The link below is one ways to do it.

https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?488499-Revo-stub-axle-mod-to-eliminate-wobbling-(pictures)

On another note, is there a way to upload photos directly to the forum, unless I'm missing something i can't seem to figure out how, always have to post on flickr.

thanks again
 
On the bottom right of the post you're making, click on the label that says "Upload a file". That will pop up a window with the option "Browse". That's where you find the pic in your computer and double click it. It will then load into your post.
 
pjoseph said:
the link below shows a photo of the gap on the bad side, this is with two clips in the front and two in the rear.
https://flic.kr/p/AbXEEA
i ended up fixing it today by adding in another plastic washer, it was snug at first so i had to also lightly sand the plastic c-clips to loosen it up.
Click to expand...

Both of my revos have a bit of play like that and I'm using RPM arms.

pjoseph said:
Has anyone done the stub axle mod? I think i am going to do it on the front only for now. There are at least three different ways to do the mod that i came across all of them had great step by step with photos. The link below is one ways to do it.
https://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?488499-Revo-stub-axle-mod-to-eliminate-wobbling-(pictures)
Click to expand...

I tried it by not drilling it out and taking 5mm nuts on bolt, put the bolt in a drill, then as it spun, used a file to grind them down small enough to fit. No matter what I used for loctite or to tighten them, they would always fall out.

Then I switched over to use the e-savage hex as it has the same size hole front to back like revo hex's do, then used the HPI flanged nut that HPI makes for their axles. Worked fine, except I almost always run traxxas splined wheels, so I"d have to cut all the stupid splines out of the wheels since the HPI hubs don't have cut outs. I suppose I could have measured and cut out the notches for the splines, but the thought honestly didn't occur to me until this very second. I ran with the hpi hubs for quite a while until one of my rims spun the hex. The HPI hex's aren't that sharp cornered and after taking the splines out, I probably weakened the hex on the wheel and couldn't get the damn axle nut off. Also, the e-savage 17mm hex's had become nearly impossible to find since the flux uses the same 5->6mm axle as a normal savage. 5mm for the nut portion, then steps up to 6 or 7mm for back of the hub. The original e-savage had the same straight axle and hub as a revo/t-maxx has.

So, I changed what I was fighting and cut the traxxas hub off flush with the hex and then used the HPI flange nut with that. Worked perfectly. Now I can still have the strength of the splined hex AND using the HPI nut, I don't have to deal with axle slop.

That said, I still use HPI's hex on my savage, but if I have problems with that, now that I thought of it, I'll try and see if I can cut notches in a spare set of normal savage hexes to fit without cutting the splines out of the wheels. WIll be a bit of work, but only work I do once... for each wheel. But only one time until I lose a hex. Or, I'll drill out a set of revo hex's.. without a press, that could be tough to not get crooked.
 

RC Builds

Back
Top