skeeter1255
RCTalk Racer
going to get the OS .18 CV-RX for my RC10GT, but wanted to know if all the things already attached to my stock .15 engine will fit the OS .18 engine or do I have to get different parts or other parts.
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questine on OS .18 engine for RC10GT
- Thread starter skeeter1255
- Start date
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What "things" are you talking about? The flywheel, clutch and clutch bell will fit. Not sure about the manifold, though.
bustedgears
Hardcore RCTalk User
Everything should go on just fine. You MIGHT need to cut the crankshaft.
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
And make sure you get the ROTARY carb. The slide carb is a headache to fit to a GT's linkages, but it can be done.
The exhaust should fit, as the CVRX is a side exhaust (square port). Now, if you're going with the pullstart, you're gonna need the pullstart header, or else your exhaust won't clear the pullstart housing.
And, to save you a little cutting, get the short shaft version. It'll fit in with almost zero mods.
The exhaust should fit, as the CVRX is a side exhaust (square port). Now, if you're going with the pullstart, you're gonna need the pullstart header, or else your exhaust won't clear the pullstart housing.
And, to save you a little cutting, get the short shaft version. It'll fit in with almost zero mods.
skeeter1255
RCTalk Racer
- Thread starter
- #5
what is a pull start header?
and what do you mean by a short shaft version.
and what do you mean by a short shaft version.
The GT comes in two basic flavors, pull start and non pull start. If your engine is a pull start, you will need to get the header designed for the pull start version. The pull start header breaks wider and higher off the block to allow access to the pull starter itself. If you use the non pull start version, you will not be able to access the pull starter itself. Just reference your owners manual, it breaks it out very clearly in there.
Got Nitro?
Hardcore RCTalk User
You guy's skipped something,when it come's to the gt chassis,there are two types,the pullstart chassis shown here>
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUX81&P=7
Then you have yourself the non pullstart chassis shown here> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUX82&P=7
The rc10gt plus wich is the RTR version of the gt comes with the standard pullstart chassis,but the FT version comes with a non and a pullstart chassis(i think),Look for the cut around the edge of the chassis like shown above in the picture,it will help you know for sure if your chassis a pullstart.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUX81&P=7
Then you have yourself the non pullstart chassis shown here> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUX82&P=7
The rc10gt plus wich is the RTR version of the gt comes with the standard pullstart chassis,but the FT version comes with a non and a pullstart chassis(i think),Look for the cut around the edge of the chassis like shown above in the picture,it will help you know for sure if your chassis a pullstart.
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
Actually, GN; the GT chassis is shared common across all models. The only two styles of Chassis are "Tub" (old style), and "pan" (new style). The GT2, which is yet to hit the market, looks like a hybrid pan/nose plate style.
However, the engine mount is slightly different between pullstart and bumpstart (thanks for reminding me of that).
So, basically, to clarify;
Differences between Pullstart and Bumpstart:
- Engine mount (pullstart mount is lower under the pullstart housing to allow for clearance)
- Exhaust Header (PS version curves up and around the pullstart to clear housing)
- Flywheel (PS version is slightly larger, altho, you can use a bumpstart flywheel in a pinch. You just can't use a pullstart flywheel on a bumpstart truck, or it will stick out of the opening on the chassis)
The engine also needs to be a short crankshaft version (usually denoted by an S in parenthesis). If you buy the long crankshaft version, you will need the Cutoff guide nut that AE sells (about $1.50). Simply thread it on all the way, make your cut, and remove.
Finally, you will need a rotary carb on the engine, as the stock linkage is configured, by default, for rotary. If you try to mount a slide carb, you will need to redo the linkage. Associated has instructions buried on their website detailing the steps.
edit; if the truck has a pullstart engine already in it, don't worry about getting parts. Here is the tower link to the engine that you'll want:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7
You will have to cut the crankshaft off flush with the nut that is on it in the picture. Otherwise, direct drop in!
However, the engine mount is slightly different between pullstart and bumpstart (thanks for reminding me of that).
So, basically, to clarify;
Differences between Pullstart and Bumpstart:
- Engine mount (pullstart mount is lower under the pullstart housing to allow for clearance)
- Exhaust Header (PS version curves up and around the pullstart to clear housing)
- Flywheel (PS version is slightly larger, altho, you can use a bumpstart flywheel in a pinch. You just can't use a pullstart flywheel on a bumpstart truck, or it will stick out of the opening on the chassis)
The engine also needs to be a short crankshaft version (usually denoted by an S in parenthesis). If you buy the long crankshaft version, you will need the Cutoff guide nut that AE sells (about $1.50). Simply thread it on all the way, make your cut, and remove.
Finally, you will need a rotary carb on the engine, as the stock linkage is configured, by default, for rotary. If you try to mount a slide carb, you will need to redo the linkage. Associated has instructions buried on their website detailing the steps.
edit; if the truck has a pullstart engine already in it, don't worry about getting parts. Here is the tower link to the engine that you'll want:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP7
You will have to cut the crankshaft off flush with the nut that is on it in the picture. Otherwise, direct drop in!
Last edited:
skeeter1255
RCTalk Racer
- Thread starter
- #9
what doyou mean by wen you said
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
The crankshaft in that picture will be a little too long for your clutchnut.
Here is a picture of my old CV.12 out of my GT. Compare the crankshafts, and you'll see what I mean:
Unless you cut it off, the nut will not put any pressure on the flywheel at all. In fact, it won't even come close to it. You see, the clutch nut on the GT is more of a pilot shaft (think of a cap nut, with one end closed). It can only thread on so far, and if the shaft is too long... well, it won't get near enough to the flywheel to lock it into place.
Just make sure you cap off the exhaust and intake before you make the cut, so metal flakes don't get into the engine. What I usually do is use something like saran wrap, and masking tape. It works pretty good to protect the rest of the engine. Or, you can use a baggy. Just poke a hole in it, push the crankshaft thru, and seal it up.
Here is a picture of my old CV.12 out of my GT. Compare the crankshafts, and you'll see what I mean:
Unless you cut it off, the nut will not put any pressure on the flywheel at all. In fact, it won't even come close to it. You see, the clutch nut on the GT is more of a pilot shaft (think of a cap nut, with one end closed). It can only thread on so far, and if the shaft is too long... well, it won't get near enough to the flywheel to lock it into place.
Just make sure you cap off the exhaust and intake before you make the cut, so metal flakes don't get into the engine. What I usually do is use something like saran wrap, and masking tape. It works pretty good to protect the rest of the engine. Or, you can use a baggy. Just poke a hole in it, push the crankshaft thru, and seal it up.
