I want 2 build my front an rear end know before i get my .21 converion kit. So i was finna rebuild the front an rear end know an when i get my conversion kit just put the new chassis on an put the Universals in. Would there be anythingelse that would blobk me from putting them in ??? :shrug:
-
Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀
Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!
- ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
- ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
- ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
- ✓ Share builds & upgrades
Putting Univesal Dog Bones in....
- Thread starter ToRqUe
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Messages
- 19,394
- Reaction score
- 909
- Points
- 2,075
- Location
- Central Florida
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
Just make sure you get ones that are long enough for the extended chassis. Other than that there should be no problems at all doing that.
Yes, Torque! There would be a problem in doing what I think you are trying to do! If you upgrade your Center CVD's to a .21 size (which basically lengthens them) you will not be able to put them into your stock T-Maxx chassis. My suggestion, would be when ever you buy the .21 Conversion kit to just use the ones that come with the kit! Don't buy stuff now, when you are going to get it with a kit. Now, what you can do is upgrade the transmission and differentials to handle the BB power, without worrying if it will work or not! Just my .02!!
Woody
Woody
- Thread starter
- #5
lol, ight i got an a crash a week ago an the chassis bent so i had 2 take everthing off an ima just put a conversion kit on instead of getting a new chassis so i wanted 2 kno can i have the front an rear ends built then just add on the CVD's, chassis an what not when it comes...
- Messages
- 19,394
- Reaction score
- 909
- Points
- 2,075
- Location
- Central Florida
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
Woody, he is doing a .21 conversion, which in 99% of cases means a new chassis, center drives, and chassis braces. He wants to build the front and rear assemblies so they can just be bolted to the new chassis once it arrives, saving time for final assembly. So YES this can be done.
Well, from his language that I can't quite understand I thought he meant can he go ahead and add the Center CVD's in?? I thought he was trying to buy the parts separately! This Torque guy really needs to learn his English a little better. Damn, what are they teaching them in Florida?? Yeah, go ahead and build the front and rear assemblies!
Woody
Woody
You should be good with putting the front and rear together. You may want to upgrade your diffs with maximizer aluminum diff cups and some aluminum diff cases. This will help prolong the life of your diff's with the new 21 your about to grind them up with.
Since you already have the thing apart, now would be the best time to do it.
Since you already have the thing apart, now would be the best time to do it.
- Messages
- 19,394
- Reaction score
- 909
- Points
- 2,075
- Location
- Central Florida
- RC Driving Style
- Bashing
- Racing
woody, no need for a crappy attitude because you did not understand what he was asking. And yes I have been in Florida most of my life, too bad if you have a problem with that.
No, not a crappy attitude towards Florida. I mean in the title of his message, it reads putting universal dog bones in. I read his post twice before I answered. Low and behold somebody else can interpret it better than myself. That is totally not where the problem lies though! It's people and their poopy typing/English skills. Granite, I'm not Professor English or anything, but come on!
front an rear??
.21 converion kit??
finna??
front an rear end know??
anythingelse??
bolbk??
I mean it is like a 3rd grader wrote that text! Poeple really need to polish up on their English skills. In a bad way!!
Woody
front an rear??
.21 converion kit??
finna??
front an rear end know??
anythingelse??
bolbk??
I mean it is like a 3rd grader wrote that text! Poeple really need to polish up on their English skills. In a bad way!!
Woody
Well, I just checked out the instructions that dynamite has on their site and saw this:
Step 9.
Mount the exhaust manifold and tuned
pipe as shown. Be sure to secure the
manifold to the engine and pipe with
the included springs. Mount the front
of the pipe to the chassis with the
included hardware.
Attach the fuel lines to the engine
and pipe. The fuel line nearest the top
of the fuel tank attaches to the tuned
pipe. The other fuel line attaches to the
carburetor. Slide the air cleaner over
the carburetor air intake as shown.
That was from this pdf file: Dynamite Instructions
That tells me that there's some pieces that you have in the kit. That's if you have the whole kit...
On my xtm kit (looks similar), there was a nut with a bolt that screwed up from the bottom where the stock 2.5 exhaust wire went. The nut had a hole in the side and a set screw on the top. You run a little wire through the hole and run the other end of the wire through the similar looking hole on the end of the exhaust pipe. Then you tighten up the set screw on the nut and on the pipe.
Step 9.
Mount the exhaust manifold and tuned
pipe as shown. Be sure to secure the
manifold to the engine and pipe with
the included springs. Mount the front
of the pipe to the chassis with the
included hardware.
Attach the fuel lines to the engine
and pipe. The fuel line nearest the top
of the fuel tank attaches to the tuned
pipe. The other fuel line attaches to the
carburetor. Slide the air cleaner over
the carburetor air intake as shown.
That was from this pdf file: Dynamite Instructions
That tells me that there's some pieces that you have in the kit. That's if you have the whole kit...
On my xtm kit (looks similar), there was a nut with a bolt that screwed up from the bottom where the stock 2.5 exhaust wire went. The nut had a hole in the side and a set screw on the top. You run a little wire through the hole and run the other end of the wire through the similar looking hole on the end of the exhaust pipe. Then you tighten up the set screw on the nut and on the pipe.
Wire/rod... whatever. I call it wire because it's not the thick. I grew up in farm land and when we said rod, it's 1/4 inch in diameter or larger. Smaller than that and it's wire.
Sorry for the confusion.
Did you get it figured out? If not, I could post a pic of my XTM setup that looks pretty similar.
Sorry for the confusion.
Did you get it figured out? If not, I could post a pic of my XTM setup that looks pretty similar.
Crap... sorry, I can't. I forgot, I moved a lot of crap around on my maxx and getting at that thing was to big a pain, so I kind of made my own and drilled a new hole for it.
This is the closest thing I got... it doesn't show you the mounting hardware very well, but you can see the top of the thing that the "rod" goes through and the "rod".
Considering it looks like this now:
This is the closest thing I got... it doesn't show you the mounting hardware very well, but you can see the top of the thing that the "rod" goes through and the "rod".
Considering it looks like this now:
- Thread starter
- #18
Thankz...i figured out a way to do it, but I just saw that they gave me 2 rods an they connect or cross some kind of way becasue 1 has a loop on the end. Ima get it by tomorrow mornin' lol.....thankz 4 the help olds.
By the way.....
You dont get bad vibration w/ the pipe like that.....ima do it that way if i can't figure it out the loop thing...
By the way.....
You dont get bad vibration w/ the pipe like that.....ima do it that way if i can't figure it out the loop thing...
Last edited:
No vibration. The exhaust doesn't touch the chassis anywhere. The wire holds it just off of the chassis.