LOL . . . I gotta say Ray, that argument always cracks me up. Aren't most of you guys young and strong, what's a 7LB starter box with a handle?
nitro_freak_123 said:
....can u tell me the advantages of pullstarter and starter box...
you already know the disadvantages, one more thing to break. I'd say this is the top one, really.
Some other advantages to using a starter box:
- most pull-start engines require a higher engine mount to accomodate the P/S. If you have a starter box, this allows you to use a non-pullstart engine mount and non-pullstart flywheel, which is a smaller diameter. This lowers the engine in the chassis and hence lowers the COG (center of gravity.)
- Most of the time, no removing the body to restart.
- no need for a stand on which to set the vehicle and allow the wheels to spin free while you wrench.
Some things you NEED TO KNOW about a starter box:
- If you get a "universal" box, you can configure it for engines that sit sideways or lengthwise in the chassis. It doesn't cost any more and is a good forward-thinking investment. The universal boxes are the ones with an "L" shape in the lid; all that's required to change it around is unbolt the motor mount inside the box and turn it sideways.
- Powering: you can power a starter box with EITHER two standard 6-cell packs in series or a gel cell/ SLA (Sealed Lead Acid Battery, same thing.) The cel cell is by far the better power source, provides more torque and you stick it in the box and charge it using the posts on the outside of the box. Which brings us to . . .
- Charging: a float charger is **the** best way to keep your SLA topped off. you can attach the float charger whenever the box is not in use and there is no danger of overcharging. Get good deals at RV accessories stores or ebay.
DO NOT charge a gel cell using a 1:1 battery charger. The max charge rate of a gel cell is 1700 mah or so and the low setting on a car charger is 2 amps. This will burn up the cell.
- Dual or single motors: This is a greatly debated topic but I have used both, extensively, on small and large block engines and here's my summary:
1. A dual-motor box is far better in my opinion for several reasons. One, you may **think** the larger single motor is better because they can reach higher RPM. But it's not RPM you need, it's TORQUE. Two 550-motors in series provide as much or more torque than a single motor, and what's more important they definately supply more torque
under load. Which is what they are when you lean in and try to start.
2. Dual motors are upgradeable with any stock 1/10 scale RC motors, two 19T mods kick ass in these boxes.
3. For many applications, the large motor hangs out of the box and just gets in the flippin' way. This gets pretty annoying sometimes.
- Using the box: the biggest mistakes people make when using starter boxes:
1. Chassis not aligned: If the wheel hits the chassis even the SLIGHTEST BIT it will stall the motors. Result is "this box sucks" when in actuality you should look closer and make SURE that the chassis alignment pins are set so when pressed down, the wheel touches ONLY the flywheel and nothing else.
2. Improper usage/leaning in: they also call them "bump starters" for a reason. If you press down on the vehicle and expect it to just crank it over, it may stall and eventually overload the motors. Again, you might say "this box sucks." No, you're using it wrong. You should be able to set up the box so when you push down a LITTLE, the motors spin up without touching the flywheel, then "bump" it down in a series of pushes to crank the engine over, being careful not to let the motors stall completely. Your motors will last a very VERY long time this way.
3. Improper charging/power source: If you use a gel cell charged as above, you will never have a problem. But aging stick packs in series or improperly charged gel cells will cause the box to work but with not enough power. "This box sucks." Nah, better check your power source. I seem to get even more punch out of a gel cell than a standard car battery. Don't know why that is, maybe someone can explain the electronics math of it. I just know "it is."
There are many boxes out there, any dual-motor universal box is upgradeable, repairable, and will start almost any engine.
pps: I'm tired off keep fixing it all the time. 
