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Pull Starter & Flywheel wont turn

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Seanm5484

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Guys,

I am quite new to the RC Nitro world and i received a new RC Nirtro Car, i have followed through the steps for breaking the car in. I checked everything and let it idle through one tank of Nitro. Then i let it sit for 15 min like the instructions say. Filler her back up when i went to pull it the pull starter wont budge an inch and the flywheel is stuck and wont spin any ideas?
 
Pull the glow plug and turn it upside down to make sure it isn't hydro locked first.

You can barely loosen the plug and try to pull it over to release a little of the compression also.

Start with these two.
 
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What Jsmith said.

Did you set the piston to bottom dead center when you shut it down? You should always do this. If not, it is possible that the piston is being squeezed by the sleeve. If the steps Jsmith offered do not work, you need to:

-Remove the glowplug

-if you cannot get a good grip on the flywheel with a pair of pliers, remove the engine from the vehicle and vise it

-Remove the pullstart assembly and back plate so you can see which direction it needs to rotate

-insert a short wooden dowel through the glow plug hole

-while putting some pressure on the pliers to rotate the engine in the biased direction, very gently tap that dowel to free the piston.
 
hi you cud of flooded the engine take the glow plug out and then pull the starter if it don't move the piston is stuck then take it to the rc shop
 
@Jsmith- I have removed the plug and turned it upside down and it is not hydro locked. But I was unable to pull it at all still.

@sixtysixduce- I did not move the piston to bottom dead center after it shut off. I will give your ideas a try next and see what happens.

Thanks for the idea guys.
 
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If you have a heat gun/hair dryer, warm up the engine a bit. I'm guessing the piston is probably stuck at the top because the engine is new. If that doesn't help do what 66D said and that will take care of your problem.
 
So, now you got the next option. Take a heat gun or dryer ( takes longer) and warm it up. May free it up. May not...
If not, you are ready to have some real rc fun. Pull that motor and start tear down. Could be a pinched sleeve, could be a broke connecting rod. You can't tell til you get in there. Let me know what you find.
 
Your piston is just stuck at TDC. Remove the plug, get a flathead screwdriver and pry the flywheel against the opening in the chassis so it turns.

Then, when you go to start it next...heat the hell out of the engine or it will just happen again.

Nothing wrong with taking it to your hobby shop - but if they try to charge you for 'fixing it' check with us first as it's a 2 second fix. ;-)
 
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Your piston is just stuck at TDC. Remove the plug, get a flathead screwdriver and pry the flywheel against the opening in the chassis so it turns.

Good way to damage a rod.

There's a reason I gave a more involved procedure for freeing a stuck piston. Less stress at more points + going in the path of least resistance=far lower chance of damaging components. If he just jams a pry bar in there, he may be trying to push an already seized piston further into a tapered bore.

It's one thing to short cut stuff that way if you're very familiar with what you're working on and the appropriate levels of force. It's quite another to be a total newbie and just start putting all kinds of torque on tiny aluminum parts that don't want to move.
 
OP - try my method first. You probably don't want to be sticking wooden material into your engine unless it's a last resort. What I recommend is a VERY common way to remove a stuck piston.

---------- Post added at 9:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:58 PM ----------

Good way to damage a rod.
It's quite another to be a total newbie and just start putting all kinds of torque on tiny aluminum parts that don't want to move.

What I recommened is not a "short cut". It's a proven method.

So you thinking telling a newbie to expose his engine to the elements, then put a foreign object inside of it to knock something loose is better then trying to loosen the flywheel itself with a screw driver. Yeah, I know the method you are talking about and it's a last resort.
 
What I recommened is not a "short cut". It's a proven method.

Not saying it doesn't work; I'm saying it's not the best idea for someone who is new to nitro RC. I've freed a great many stuck pistons by rotating the flywheel alone, but those of us with experience know by feel how much force is too much.

So you thinking telling a newbie to expose his engine to the elements, then put a foreign object inside of it to knock something loose is better then trying to loosen the flywheel itself with a screw driver.

Did I tell him to wait until there's a stiff breeze in a dusty area to do this? No, and common sense would dictate that you be careful not to let debris enter the bore. He'll not be tamping the dowel with enough force to splinter it (unless he's using a giant's interpretation of "very gently")

What I instructed not only minimizes the forces on the crankshaft and connecting rod by simple mechanics, but also will let him see the path of least resistance. If something is stuck in a taper, you want to remove it toward the wider end, not jam it further into the taper. If he just attacks it with a screwdriver and tries to push an already stuck piston further into the taper, he could most definitely taco the rod or damage the bearings.

Also, by removing the backplate to see which way is the best direction to rotate, he will be able to confirm that the seizure is, in fact, a stuck piston. If it is a mechanical failure and he starts just twisting the crankshaft, he could do further damage to the engine.

I'm sorry if you somehow felt insulted by my last reply, because you certainly seem very defensive. That was not my intention, but it also doesn't change the fact that certain approaches should only be taken by experienced people.
 
I'm sorry if you somehow felt insulted by my last reply, because you certainly seem very defensive. That was not my intention, but it also doesn't change the fact that certain approaches should only be taken by experienced people.
Of course I'm not insulted in the slightest. I just completely disagree that my method is any more dangerous for a newbie to attempt than yours is. That's all.
 
I just completely disagree that my method is any more dangerous for a newbie to attempt than yours is. That's all.

That's fine.

Just understand that my perspective is coming from nearly two decades turning wrenches for a living, and knowing that an experienced person can get away with methods that will likely result in damage if attempted by an inexperienced person.

I can change out a busted valve spring in a Dodge hemi in about 20 minutes; how long do you think it should take the average Joe who has never performed this type of repair before? Do you think I should just tell him to pop the valve cover and smack the retainer with a socket to free the stem locks, then compress the new spring, install it and button things up? Because that's basically what I do. But such a brief description doesn't make the person aware of the risks in doing it that way, and the prerequisites that mitigate such risks. Just as you didn't acknowledge the importance of verifying which way to rotate the engine to pull the piston out of the taper in which it's stuck, I skipped mentioning that one has to make sure the piston in that cylinder is at TDC, or the valve may drop into the bore. Also didn't bother to say that I put a glob of grease on the top of the retainer and inside the socket, so that the locks will get stuck to it, rather than fall down into the engine. A seasoned mechanic knows this, but a green pea shadetree likely has no idea how critical those little steps are.

I could give dozens of similar examples, but I feel this sufficiently illustrates my point.

Do you see where I'm coming from now? What if he actually has a broken rod? If he just twists on the crankshaft until it breaks free, he may break the crankshaft itself, or damage the engine housing.
 
Guys thanks for all the help. I took a heat gun to the engine for about 20 seconds and that freed the piston.
 
Very good! That tells you it was just a tight new bore.

Finish your break it, and enjoy it! And always remember piston at BDC after shut-down. This is just as important on the 10th gallon of fuel as the first tank of break-in. I don't know how much you picked up on the taper we're talking about in some of the exchanges, but that is how ringless nitro engines make compression. As you have already experienced, the sleeve will contract on the piston after it cools. The part that you can't see is that this affects the memory of the sleeve; if it contracts on the piston, over time (and not much time), the sleeve will no longer return to it's tapered shape, causing a loss of compression.

Some engines are more forgiving than others, but all will suffer from a piston left up in the bore on cool down.
 
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