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PRP Swift

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Hi Niggle,

Also, earlier I mentioned that I had to modify my PRP wheel hubs to fit on the Mugen CVDs because the PRPs were just too tight. I got some Mugen wheel hubs and they fit perfectly. So right now, I have Mugen oudrives, CVDs, wheel hubs, pivot balls, and steering knuckles. The quality of the Mugen stuff is just amazing in comparison to the Swift/PRP parts.
 
My shop has a pull start for the stock Katana and some other PRP 1/8 buggy. Will it work with the Swift?
 
FYI, www.sheldonshobbies.com has the SH pull-starts in stock. As others have mentioned, they are the best company for mail-orders (of any kind) for customer service that I've ever dealt with. Fast, helpful, super friendly and generally nice guys. Many swift parts in stock and reasonable prices!
 
afew questions and hi!

hi guys!
I'm new to this thread and yes i do own the amazing swift 2 nitro car!
I have afew questions regarding it though, please take time to read:

1. i have heard that the swift 2 is discontinued now, is this true? And if it is, why?

2. i ran my swift 2 today after about 3 months of being inside unused. It is a hot day and i was giving it full throttle up a straight unused road and it reached 97 degrees F ! The engine was smoking so i stopped it immediatly. The car itself is tuned well and I'm using 20% nitro fuel. I need to know some ways of cooling the engine down, i thought of buying a cool glow plug, how do these different temp plugs work?

Does anyone have any cooling ideas? :cheers:
thankyou for listening
 
The Swift 2 is not discontinued. It is still being imported and sold by Schumacher in the UK.

It is true that HappyTime Hobby no longer distribute the Swift in the US, but support continues from RDLogics in the guise of the RDLogics SHO.

97F is not at all hot. 97C is not that hot either. After running half a tank through the engine the temperature should ideally be around 220F (105C).

The smoking could just be some residual castor oil from the last run, burning off around the glow plug hole.

For 20% nitro fuel you should be OK with the R3 plug that comes with the Swift. You might like to try a NovaRossi C5 or equivalent just out of interest (I run 25% nitro fuel with a NovaRossi C6S plug).

A cooler plug has a thicker wire filament and therefore takes longer to heat up on the compression stroke, this has the effect of retarding the ignition timing. You need a cooler plug when using fuel with a higher nitro content because the additional nitromethane makes the fuel easier to ignite and thus more prone to pre-detonation.
 
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sorry my mistake, what i meant to say was 297 degrees F, that is hot you must admit. Sorry again for the mistake
 
kurtf5 said:
sorry my mistake, what i meant to say was 297 degrees F, that is hot you must admit. Sorry again for the mistake
Click to expand...
Yes, 297F is way too hot!

What was the ambient air temperature when you ran the car? You need to run richer in hot weather.

Also if you are bashing rather than racing, the chances are that you are running at wide open throttle for a long time and you need to run slightly richer to be safe.

Have you tried sealing the backplate and carb neck with RTV sealant just in case you have an air leak?

Fitting a larger, anodized heatsink also helps. The stock SH heatsink is rather small and powder coated. The tall heatsink fitted to the Savage works quite well.
 
I'm fairly new to tuning engines with a hi and low speed needle. For my stock motor, the low speed is the screw in the bronze casing and the hi-speed is the one at the end of the slide carb right?

Right now, I have a decent stream of smoke with a little fuel spray at idle, but when I hit the throttle it just chokes and dies. I assume this means my idle is good but the hi-speed needle is way too rich. Am I right?

New pull-start works like a charm. Also got a Kyosho 777 fuel setup from ebay for $24 shipped. Came with new fuel lines, the tank and related parts and a nice large fuel filter. Fits pretty well. Can anyone post a pic of their brake setup? I discovered the front brakes unhooked on mine and hooked them back up but I don't think I did it correctly.
 
I got it so at idle it's burning just before it starts smoking. As soon as I hit the gas, I get tons of smoke and the engine screams. If I let off the gas though, even a tiny bit, it dies. Sometimes at low speeds it will hiccup and die. What am I doing wrong?
 
sad_rocc said:
I'm fairly new to tuning engines with a hi and low speed needle. For my stock motor, the low speed is the screw in the bronze casing and the hi-speed is the one at the end of the slide carb right?

Right now, I have a decent stream of smoke with a little fuel spray at idle, but when I hit the throttle it just chokes and dies. I assume this means my idle is good but the hi-speed needle is way too rich. Am I right?
Click to expand...
No, it's the other way round. The HSN is the one in the brass union where the fuel pipe from the tank connects and the LSN is the one in the carb slide.

Sounds like you are way too rich, lean out the LSN (the one in the slide carb) until the engine will accelerate cleanly from idle.

Bear in mind that the HSN affects the fuel mixture across all throttle openings but the LSN is only effective whilst the needle is still inside the jet under at the other end of the slide. At about half throttle the LSN will be completely clear of the jet and fuelling will be entirely controlled by the HSN.
 
Ah, yeah that would be a bit of a problem! Since I was wrong on this, I just want to double-check. For both needles, richening is when you turn them counter-clockwise and leaning is clockwise correct?
 
sad_rocc said:
Ah, yeah that would be a bit of a problem! Since I was wrong on this, I just want to double-check. For both needles, richening is when you turn them counter-clockwise and leaning is clockwise correct?
Click to expand...

Thats correct
 
Ok, I finally got it running! Couple things though. To start, I often have to place my thumb over the muffler, even when warm and then it'll catch pretty easily, after a zillion pulls.

A few handling questions. It's way out of whack, but I don't really know how to fix it. I've only driven 1/10 basher monster trucks and STs that don't require much adjusting. It spins out super easy, like with the flick of the wheel. The back end is super loose but the front sticks well. The areas I drive it are super hard, dry dirt and the car is very bouncy. The front especially, hardly any absorbing at all. The terrain is rough and not giving at all so I need long travel too. What's a good start to set the shock collars and position on the shock tower?

So basically, how should I fine tune this and where's a good place to start for tuning handling considering my terrain and use? Thanks a ton!
 
Anyone? I know this is basic stuff for some of you, but my tuning is so out of whack I just need a starting point. Anyone have that Pro racer's setup? I know its about 20 pages back somewhere...

Also, any advice on tuning my fuel mixture? I've got it so close I'm afraid to touch it and screw it up.
 
Has anyone converted a Swift into a truggy yet and if so what are the issues that have come up? I want to do this to my Swift that is why I am asking.
 
i can't be botherd to tell you my setup but screw the high end needle valve in fully then counter clockwise 3 turns. Do the same with the low end aswell, then try it. If a long trail of smoke comes out when flooring it then thats ok, it should be a bluey grey colour, if the car stutters when going full throttle then its to lean, screw it out slightly and try again. I've just got mine to work perfectly and very very fast. Also if your not already use 20% fuel and buy a temp measurer.
 
new swift

hi fellow swift owners
just got a swift buggy and after reading all 91 pages of this thread
all i can say is for the price its not 2 bad
 
Hey Shippy,
This thread is the "Swift Owner's Manual". Welcome to the wonderful world of the now "RD Logics" 1/8th buggy. Keep an eye on those out drives.......
 
In the 91 pages of this thread, i'm sure you will find the answer to your question.
No offence.

Try the search feature on the top of this page.
Thanks
 

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