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PRP Swift

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anyone interested in a swift, I love it, but i can't get parts in town for it anymore and i just got a new truggy. I'm unsure of what to ask for it (roller with motor), Just rebuilt it again after a front end collision, has all new parts... [email protected] for more info.. Thanks guys and ill miss it.. nate
 
PRO kit

got the pro kit in

http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload9/pro_box-closed.jpg

http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload9/pro_box-open.jpg

http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload2/pro_springsbag22.jpg

I must say, it is a superior buggykit now :)
looks really competitive out off the box at half the price of other Prospecs
includes : all p(ug) hot up parts, PRP us colorpattern (black/)copper coloured 7075 milled towers + 6 suspensionholders + steering upper plate, carboncharged clutchshoes, lightened clutchbell, new steering knuckles new pivot ball system, new upper front suspension arms with less caster, upgraded drivetrains/shafts, diffs ( 0.5 mm gaskets, gears, housings,case, shims) , hardened outdrives, carbon upper brakeplate, shocks (3.5 mm shafts, 3x4 sets of coloured springs, hardened shockbodies treathed, shock boots, other interior valves), 6 bottles of silicone oil ; fueltank splashguard; rounded frontbumper, new body..

the swiftmakers let their buggy evolve that is a fact, hopefully after all the bad publicity, this happens not to late for them
 
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Ok now you know how the Box look like.

I can show how the PRO looks like.

OK lets start with the Front

front.jpg


front2.jpg


Now the rear:

heck.jpg


The PRO without Body:

swiftneu2.jpg


And finaly the PRO with the new Body and a Collari XS400 looks great!

swiftneu.jpg


On Sunday we are receiving the first Test from one of our Test-Drivers.

I will post an answer as soon i will have it.

If you have any questions ask!

DrDirt
 
I've had my Swift since they first came out. Use to run it every weekend in Delta winter indoor series. Just started to hop it up to a Pro. What other than the red spring do you guys use with the big bore shocks? I noticed that the Kyosho blues don't fit. The new shocks are bigger and requires a larger spring. What shock oil wt. is anybody using for the big bore shocks? How about shock position [especially the bottom part of the shock]? Cameron or Roger,where in the Bay Area can I get the new body? Can I get them clear or painted?Haven't ran it for awhile. What are the remaing issues for the Swift Pro or some would say what parts loosen? Or breaks? Would like to stock up on those parts. Camber being used by the team drivers front and rear?How about some recent setups for the PRO? Thanks a bunch..................
 
Hello Sipaboy,

i use the black or more dark purple collered Springs, they are a bit harder than the red once.
I use the Standard 350wt Oil from Nanda works good.
For the Shock position use the holes wich are closest to the wheels, thats a good point to start. For myself i race just in that position.

Regarding the Parts loosening:

Just Locetite evything what will have a metall to metall connection, thats it.
I just had brocken Parts after an heavy accident, thats Human error not the Parts.

For the Shock they are 3 different Springs right now.
Red = soft
black = midle
white = hard

Hope that helps?

If not send an PN or post it here.

DrDirt
 
DrDirt said:
I just had brocken Parts after an heavy accident, thats Human error not the Parts.
Click to expand...

WOW ! Thats a first for this thread. Finally, somebody admitting that the parts were broken due to human error.
 
Where in the SF bay area can I get the newer[slimmer] body and white springs for the new big bore shocks? I know HT Newark doesn't have them.Anyone have the latest setups for the Swift Pro?
 
Hello HP Invent,

isn't it mostly the same, we are Racers and if we are going to hit for example a huge Stone not to say rock in the wrong ankle it might happen that something breaks.

In my case it was just the Steering knuckle it cost me 5min. to fix it, cost 50cent or so.

But right now i have allready about a Gallon of Nitro through my Swift PRO and there is no other damage, like it was mentioned in the earlier Postings.

Manufacturing was quit active the last month to fix every known Problem.
Our Team Riders are satisfied with the PRO and they are doing Racing for shure.

Sipaboy:
What do you want to know?
We can provice some SetupSheets to you if we know in which Condition you are Racing.
Are you using the real PRO or did you use the Upgrade Path?

Just ask us

DrDirt
 
how does the swift pro cost in europe...and where can i get it from? schumacher dont seem to have them in the UK
 
happy to see the PRO KIT has been out in the market and happy to know that the manufacturing part have at least make a commitment to a better product... wish i could get a hold of this PRO kit in shanghai!!!

:) mop :)
 
"dinball "on ebay
hongkong
***********
rcmart . com
sells them
 
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Has anyone been having the tuning issues with the new swift? I'm referring to the problem of being perfectly tuned at full tank and then the engine runs like crap when it gets down to 1/2 tank. I remember from a few pages back it was determined to be the flip-top seal not sealing fully. Is that still the root of the problem? Is there a way to improve the seal or another fuel tank that fits and works better?
 
sad_rocc said:
Has anyone been having the tuning issues with the new swift? I'm referring to the problem of being perfectly tuned at full tank and then the engine runs like crap when it gets down to 1/2 tank. I remember from a few pages back it was determined to be the flip-top seal not sealing fully. Is that still the root of the problem? Is there a way to improve the seal or another fuel tank that fits and works better?
Click to expand...

As you are probably aware, all Swifts (including the original version) seem to be affected by this problem.

Soaking the filler cap O-ring in fuel helps. I'm thinking of trying the MBX-5 "option" filler cap on one of my Swift's tanks.
 
Hello all,

as the German Distributor we found the same but!!!

We found that the Engine was to lean in Mid Section.
Please try to rich the Idle Needle locatet if on the Carburator whre the lnkage is conected.

Try to turn anti-clockwise a qaurter of a turn if that not works try another quarter.

In our case this helps, we don't know why that happend but we solved the issue without a Mugen Part. :idea:

Happy Racing

DrDirt
 
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DrDirt said:
We found that the Engine was to lean in Mid Section.
Please try to rich the Idle Needle locatet if on the Carburator whre the lnkage is conected.

Try to turn anty Clockwise a qurter of a turn if that not works try another quarter.
Click to expand...

Do you mean anti-clockwise?

Turning clockwise will screw the LSN into the low-speed jet and make the mixture leaner.
 
Hello,

yes anti-clockwise because we had the same if the mixture is lean it might be that the engine will not run if you reached a certain fuel level.

Try it and tell us what happen, it could be the fueltank but its worth to try.

DrDirt
 
sad_rocc said:
Has anyone been having the tuning issues with the new swift? I'm referring to the problem of being perfectly tuned at full tank and then the engine runs like crap when it gets down to 1/2 tank. I remember from a few pages back it was determined to be the flip-top seal not sealing fully. Is that still the root of the problem? Is there a way to improve the seal or another fuel tank that fits and works better?
Click to expand...

Also, you need to tune the engine for the 1/2 tank condition. Of course this means that it'll be slightly rich on a full tank and slightly lean on an empty tank but this is a compromise that most nitro-engined car owners have to live with.
 

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