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PRP Swift

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Took my Swift to the BMX track again and gave it death, `drive it like you stole it`
no breakages but its blown the pistons off the shock shafts again. Has this happened to anyone else? the only solution is to thread the shafts and use locknuts instead of the e-clips. I was running Mugen grey springs with 30wt in the front and 25wt at the rear. On another subject, how do I post pics? I'm a newbie to forums so please be nice!

Chill.
 
mbx5 shocks / enigma

I have 4 complete mbx5 prospec shocks , would they mount onto the swift easily ?

I know the enigma buggy very well, 8 drivers use it at my track, and I think, it's so different to a swift, as is a mbx5 to a crono rs, and the enigma was robust and without misfits from the beginning and rides better as the swift( they say)
the enigma in the pictures(below mod.) is from a racer at our track, with a 4 mm. shortened mbx5 frontarms and laydown steeringservo, awaiting an evolution model, that doesn't come ...
the only possible problem with an enigma, is a differentialgear worn-out with too powerfull motors, and the diff gears are the only items, that look as taken from a swift .!!... A-arms (balljoints)are good but have their limits ...

now this catana, is just simply an enigma, low budget

why don't the manufacturers finish the development of swift and enigma (that one isn't evolving either)
and sell say the swift pro and enigma2, which takes too long
and I still hope all swift2 owners will turn in those messed-up fronttowers to schumacher or PRP by the thousands, so they know they can't go on like this

http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload3/enigma.jpg
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload5/enigma_chassis.jpg
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload3/enigma_front.jpg


http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload5/enigma_mod01.jpg
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload5/enogmamod02.jpg

as a designer myself, I must say : diffgears, servosaver plate, tank, tires, wingholderwasher, frontbumper, transponderholder, bodyholders and rear upperarms all seem to share the same designbureau but not the final factory( because better quality)
 
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gdc02 said:
the only possible problem with an enigma, is a differentialgear worn-out with too powerfull motors, and the diff gears are the only items, that look as taken from a swift .!!...
Click to expand...
and i think SWIFT also have this kind of 'flimsyness' in the diff department..?

gdc02 said:
A-arms are good but have their limits ...
Click to expand...
what kind of limits?

gdc02 said:
now this catana, is just simply an enigma, low budget
Click to expand...
what kind of things did they took out from ENIGMA to produce KATANA that able to reduced the price?

gdc02 said:
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload5/enigma_mod01.jpg
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfolders/upload5/enogmamod02.jpg
Click to expand...

are these pictures showing a SWIFT convert to ENIGMA?

:) mop :)
 
enigma A-arms balljoints can break in heavy duty like real races and heavybashing
but in normal use they are ok

I have no good picture of the catana but I see on the one above that the front steering blocks are plastic , perhaps there will be no chassis stiffeners or front antirollbarr....like an enigma xs

last pictures are, an enigma modded to mugen mbx, with mbx5, 4mm. shortened, front suspensionarms, above and below and custom-made carbon servotray with laydown servo
 
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gdc02 said:
why don't the manufacturers finish the development of swift and enigma (that one isn't evolving either)
and sell say the swift pro and enigma2, which takes too long
and I still hope all swift2 owners will turn in those fronttowers to schumacher or PRP by the thousands, so they know they can't go on like this
Click to expand...

I have to agree.

I only bought my Swift cause it seemed like they were evolving it into a proper racing buggy, now we hear there will be no Pro version.

No explanation as to why? :rolleyes:

I've bought the Pro (doesn't exist, but what else do I call it) front suspension holder kit PUG0012, this is very nice. Comes with new hinge pins with flats machined in one end for the grub screw. photo here

Tim.
 
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I wanted to buy 4 swifts, for me and my 2 sons, and their friend
I even let go yesterday, a secondhand swift2 rtr, as new, sold for 3/5th of the price

they want 3 kyosho sports rtr now because they know, there won't be any problem with it and can be upgraded easily and cheap

I just love the swift
but what can I do else, I can't go changing 4 fronttowers for 4 milles ones or if I order the original ones , I can't be sure, it will be better ones, on arrival :violin:

without kidding, do the responsibles, see the mess they caused, I hope so !!
 
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gdc02 said:
I wanted to buy 4 swifts, for me and my 2 sons, and their friend
I even let go yesterday, a secondhand swift2 rtr, as new, sold for 3/5th of the price

they want 3 kyosho sports rtr now because they know, there won't be any problem with it and can be upgraded easily and cheap

I just love the swift
but what can I do else, I can't go changing 4 fronttowers for 4 milles ones or if I order the original ones , I can't be sure, it will be better ones, on arrival :violin:

without kidding, do the responsibles, see the mess they caused, I hope so !!
Click to expand...

I understand your frustrations, when you are talking 4-off it kind of puts a different perspective on things.

Question, has anyone tried talking to Schumcher UK about the shock tower problem?

Tim.
 
Hello all,

I'am from Germany and listen carefully whats going on here.
We are the German Distirbutor of Swift, so let me tell some impressions.

There where some Parts which needs to be upgraded.
The Shock Towers with the wrong mounting whols are from the so called Swift Sport, because they are stamped. The PRO Parts are made out of 7075 and they are CNC machined. The new Shock-Towers are available and lot better quality Price around 25 USD, the investment is worth to make.

Better fit and looks better.

For any questions please ask we can try to leverage the info to Nanda Model.
They realy would like to improve, as you can see on the PRO or Upgrade Parts.

For all:

The Swift is available in three diferent Models:
1. Swift Sport is the cheapest one with Engine and Radio (Blazer)
2. Swift with Engine (depending on Distributor allthough with Radio)
3. SWIFT Pro thats a Kit without Engine
The Pro is like a Swift with many Upgrade Parts.

Upgrade Parts are:
- Aluminium Parts made out of 7075 CNC machined
- Chassi
- Shock Towers
- Front and Reae lower Suspension Mount
- Steering Rack
- New Gearbox
- Diff Case and Gaskets
- Front Bumper round
- Upper Front Arms
- Upgraded Pivot Ball System
- Carbon Mid-Diff Plate
- Front and Rear Shock partly new

Thats mainly what was updated.

For your refernce ask your lokal Distributors, they woul like to help you!

DrDirt
 
5909PRP-EngineMod3-med.jpg


I've modded my PRP engine to take off the pull start.

Dremeled the spigot off the crank, & made a new backplate from 1.25" bar stock (took me a couple of goes as my lathe is crap!).

While I had the liner out I smoothed the lower edges of the supply ports a little. Gonna fit a RB pipe & see what it can do.

I've got a couple more pics in my gallery here

Tim.
 
I like the mayhem pro as an alternative buy
it seems well build
but already I hear :
that the original clutch is poop and must be replaced by mugen black or metal shoes and springs
the wheeladapters screws strip on it also mugen replacements
the wing retainer strips his screw too
and locktite wil be needed on metal to metal, again everywhere

if the rest if nice no dice
support is good like from prp
 
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Sh Engine Mod Project

like TOOLMAN does... i also trying to MOD my SH engine. but for now i have to KIV it due to my DREMEL need to be repaired!!! LOL...

3578SH_engine01.webp

OPENED UP my SH ENGINE from my PRP SWIFT RTR... hope to get more horse power from simple MOD. i will refer to the article in RC CAR ACTION MAG that i have... wish me luck!!!!


3578SH_engine02.webp

this picture showing my first attempt to MOD the sleeve. what i did / will do is to smoothen the BOOST PORT and to make groove/channel to both GUIDE PORTS... dont touch the EXHAUST PORT!!!!

3578SH_engine03-med.jpg

picture showing the CRANKSHAFT of the engine.
to my surprise the HOLE is VERY BIG and the edge around the hole already been beveled... i asked my friend (HELLION) do i need to beveled more? i will post his answer later.

3578SH_engine04-med.jpg

see... its BIG!!
its 8.85mm diameter!!!
its my first time to open up .21 engine. it this a normal size for this hole for the crankshaft?

3578SH_engine06-med.jpg

this is HELLION's answer (in red). i will continue to do the MOD after i repair my DREMEL... LOL

3578SH_engine07-med.jpg

this is HELLION's advice on how to mod your crankshaft 'head'(?)....
i want to repair my DREMEL ASAP!!! help!!!!

REMEMBER... DO THIS MOD ON YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
if you did it wrongly.. buy a new engine will solve your problem... LOL
as adviced by HELLION (my friend)... do any of this MOD a little by little and do TESTs.... DONT OVER DO IT otherwise you will loose performance....

GOOD LUCK


:) mop :)
 
mop_iko said:
OPENED UP my SH ENGINE from my PRP SWIFT RTR... hope to get more horse power from simple MOD. i will refer to the article in RC CAR ACTION MAG that i have... wish me luck!!!!

this picture showing my first attempt to MOD the sleeve. what i did / will do is to smoothen the BOOST PORT and to make groove/channel to both GUIDE PORTS... dont touch the EXHAUST PORT!!!!

picture showing the CRANKSHAFT of the engine.
to my surprise the HOLE is VERY BIG and the edge around the hole already been beveled... i asked my friend (HELLION) do i need to beveled more? i will post his answer later.

see... its BIG!!
its 8.85mm diameter!!!
its my first time to open up .21 engine. it this a normal size for this hole for the crankshaft?

this is HELLION's answer (in red). i will continue to do the MOD after i repair my DREMEL... LOL

this is HELLION's advice on how to mod your crankshaft 'head'(?)....
i want to repair my DREMEL ASAP!!! help!!!!

REMEMBER... DO THIS MOD ON YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
if you did it wrongly.. buy a new engine will solve your problem... LOL
as adviced by HELLION (my friend)... do any of this MOD a little by little and do TESTs.... DONT OVER DO IT otherwise you will loose performance....
Click to expand...

Looks Good, Any Idea how much more power you'll get?

I believe removing the pullstart to be worth about 0.25 hp or 2000-3000 rpm,
which is quite a gain for little effort.

Tim.
 
i have NO IDEA how much power i will gain!!!! LOL
but i am sure IF i did it CORRECTLY i will increase the TORQUE.

and i want to know MORE ( i really mean WANT TO KNOW MORE) on how to take out the pull start and replace it with something else for the back plate.

:) mop :)
 
mop_iko said:
i have NO IDEA how much power i will gain!!!! LOL
but i am sure IF i did it CORRECTLY i will increase the TORQUE.

and i want to know MORE ( i really mean WANT TO KNOW MORE) on how to take out the pull start and replace it with something else for the back plate.

:) mop :)
Click to expand...

First I removed the drive peg on the crankshaft with a dremel & cutoff wheel, checked clearance between this & the new backplate. See here

I did a sketch before I made the backplate here (RH click, Save as)
Not too hard to make if you have access to a lathe.

Alternatively you could just re-use the old bits, though you couldn't garrantee that you wouldn't loose a little crank pressure through the one-way bearing hole.

I should mention that I haven't actually run my engine with this fitted yet, though it basically just copies the dims of the original backplate internally.

Tim.
 
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Toolman said:
First I removed the drive peg on the crankshaft with a dremel & cutoff wheel, checked clearance between this & the new backplate. See here

I did a sketch before I made the backplate here (RH click, Save as)
Not too hard to make if you have access to a lathe.

Alternatively you could just re-use the old bits, though you couldn't garrantee that you wouldn't loose a little crank pressure through the one-way bearing hole.

I should mention that I haven't actually run my engine with this fitted yet, though it basically just copies the dims of the original backplate internally.

Tim.
Click to expand...
TIM the TOOLMAN!!!

thanks for the pdf and the picture.

i will check my backplate for that "drive peg" later ... coz i didnt remember how that thing looks like.

and i think for this mean time i will use the pull start... i dont want to loose some 'crank pressure' from the one-way bearing. If i use the ROTO-START option part can i save a bit of weight, a bit of resistance and no lost of pressure? compared if i still put the pull start on?

:) mop :)
 
Merry X Mas to you all

Just a happy holiday wish to all who are SWIFT Racers.

Also to Cameron and Roger

Cheers
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
:buggy1: :buggy1: :redbuggy: :redbuggy: :wasted: :wasted:
 

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