Niggle... mine is running hot as well. I was asking a few posts ago (okay... a lot of posts ago) and no one said anything back. Once I tuned all of the high end "sputters" out and got everything all set, what I have noticed is that the engine runs hot. Mine runs about 255-265 on a ~75 day which seems warm to me. Another thing I have noticed is that the motor seems to take a while to warm up for some reason and has very poor performance till it reaches these exact temps. It may be the way that I have it tuned, but I would think not just because once it is at these temps, everything works just great. I just don't like how hot it is... is there something that I should be doing differently with this tune?
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PRP Swift
- Thread starter Lightfytr
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I thinking of switching to fuel with 10% oil content (as opposed to 15% in the fuel that I am running now).
My theory being that it's the methanol vapourising that cools the combustion chamber and 5% less oil means 5% more methanol.
My theory being that it's the methanol vapourising that cools the combustion chamber and 5% less oil means 5% more methanol.
boricuanitro
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Try the A5 plug. I have had my Swift since it came out in
December and with the A5 plug runs at about 250-255 range
in 90 degree climate, as for taking a while to warm up, well., how long do you consider too long. Mine takes about 2 minutes to get warm which is not too long IMO. Just warm it up moving slowly. Also always use good quality nitro. I use Odonnell.
Hope it helps some :thumbup:
December and with the A5 plug runs at about 250-255 range
in 90 degree climate, as for taking a while to warm up, well., how long do you consider too long. Mine takes about 2 minutes to get warm which is not too long IMO. Just warm it up moving slowly. Also always use good quality nitro. I use Odonnell.
Hope it helps some :thumbup:
Mine I guess is a minor tuning thing then... I have been using the A5 ever since break in. I actually am using a good nitro for mine too (according to the LHS... they had me buy a certain type)... so it may be a minor tuning thing. What would you suggest? Yes, about 2-2.5 minutes to warm up... my bad. You have to remember, my only nitro experience outside of this guy was a 1/10 truck... those little motors are totally different if you ask me.
Is the A5 comparible to the #8? I am not familiar with the RB parts (yet... I think I already know what my next motor is going to be). I run 25% fuel... that shouldn't make that much difference though, should it? If it were 20 yeah, but not that much with 25... right?
I run Trinity Nitro Power Platinum Team Blend 30% with a McCoy MC-8 plug...
I'm right around 240 - 250 all day long.. You can run it at 260 - 270, but just make sure you still see smoke coming out.. Thats the important thing, THE SMOKE..
I'm right around 240 - 250 all day long.. You can run it at 260 - 270, but just make sure you still see smoke coming out.. Thats the important thing, THE SMOKE..
Roger: Did you need to shim the head to run 30% nitro?
I've got plenty of smoke coming out. It should go much leaner (I've just started leaning out after break in, I'm only 1/8th of a turn past the factory high-end needle setting) but I am already worried about the temperature.
I've got plenty of smoke coming out. It should go much leaner (I've just started leaning out after break in, I'm only 1/8th of a turn past the factory high-end needle setting) but I am already worried about the temperature.
As for fuel I personally like the TRINITY fuel.. As for fuels to stay away from.. I have NOT tryed it myself, but people I talk to say to stay away from Blue Thunder..
As for the outdrive problem with the Swift.. I was wondering if anyone has tryed installing the Mugen MBX5 outdrive on the Swift?? The pin side of the outdrive looks like it'll fit perfect in the diff, but the yoke side is a little longer then the stock Swift outdrive.. It might work, but I have not tryed to install one myself on the car.. With the yoke being longer it might rub on the drive universal, but it could be cut down..
Has anyone attempted to run these?? I might try a set later this week..
As for the outdrive problem with the Swift.. I was wondering if anyone has tryed installing the Mugen MBX5 outdrive on the Swift?? The pin side of the outdrive looks like it'll fit perfect in the diff, but the yoke side is a little longer then the stock Swift outdrive.. It might work, but I have not tryed to install one myself on the car.. With the yoke being longer it might rub on the drive universal, but it could be cut down..
Has anyone attempted to run these?? I might try a set later this week..
I have tryed Mugen outdrives. They fit no problem BUT as they are slightly longer than standard swift part the drive shaft will foul at full damper compression in the dog bone slot, so needs shortening slightly to avoid this happening. The wear rate is far superior as well!!
Originally posted by Steve B
I have tryed Mugen outdrives. They fit no problem BUT as they are slightly longer than standard swift part the drive shaft will foul at full damper compression in the dog bone slot, so needs shortening slightly to avoid this happening. The wear rate is far superior as well!!
Useful insight.
Do you need to reshim the diffs when you fit the Mugen outdrives?
Any particular Mugen model, or are the outdrives the same on both the MBX-4 and MBX-5?
Can I ask how you shortened yours? Lathe, hack saw, angle grinder... ?
Originally posted by niggle
Roger: Did you need to shim the head to run 30% nitro?
I've got plenty of smoke coming out. It should go much leaner (I've just started leaning out after break in, I'm only 1/8th of a turn past the factory high-end needle setting) but I am already worried about the temperature.
Yes, one silver and one copper.
Well, at 65 outside temp today, with the lid off, I was at 235, so go figure... things seemed to be working especially well today. I really like the MBX upper A-arms... they totally change the characteristics of the handling. Should I just stick with the fuel that I have, or should I try something different when I run out?
Originally posted by WA2FAST
Oh yea... I do, trust me. I am running Byron fuel 25% and it says 12% lubrication... which I assume means oil. Should I be running something different? Let me know guys. Thanx.:thumbsup:
Byron fuel is really good fuel and at 25%, that's a good blend. I use Mugen Seiki fuel which is the same as byron. I got some 40% that I'm gonna try, but I'm gonna have to run 2 silver shims on my JP motor. Its gonna be balistic. Odonnell fuel is good also.
Is there any way to rid the lines of air? It seems that sometimes after running and stopping for a few, when I nail it, it will stumble and caugh for a second or two before it takes off... and I think that it may be related to air in the line... but maybe not. Not sure exactly, any suggestions?
Originally posted by WA2FAST
Is there any way to rid the lines of air? It seems that sometimes after running and stopping for a few, when I nail it, it will stumble and caugh for a second or two before it takes off... and I think that it may be related to air in the line... but maybe not. Not sure exactly, any suggestions?
This used to be a real problem for me with smaller scale cars with 75cc fuel tanks. The fuel would foam up and there would be air bubbles in the fuel line to the carb.
Not had this problem with the Swift so far. The fuel tank seems to a have a good baffle/pick up arrangement. My car was on its roof several times on Sunday and didn't flame out once.
Maybe your idle is still too rich and the crankcase is loading up with fuel?