• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

PRP Swift

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Some Questions

Hey!

I got my Swift buggy on Friday. What an awesome machine!

Mine was an ARTR (minus engine, radio). I have some quesions regarding it.

1) The clutch assembly included I believe one washer for screw that holds the clutch bell on, and 4 other washers. 3 of them are the same size, one a little larger. What are these for? The instruction manual on the clutch assembly page does not show them being installed, or even includes them in the drawing, so I do not know where they go.

2) Is it okay to use blue loctite for the CVJ setscrews? After I got done using blue loctite on all of them (except center, too much work), I read on here that alot of you used RED loctite. Is there any difference? When I first took them out they had alot of RED dried up crusty stuff, which I believe is RED loctite.

3) I notice the front wheels have excessive toe-out. I have never raced 1/8th scale buggy before. Is this how the front usually is?

4) Finally, I have a question regarding my steering servo. Whenever I turn the wheel to the right, it and let go, it centers back and the wheels are straight. Whenever I turn the wheels to the left, and let go, it also centers back-----but not the the same position as when I did this when I turned the wheels right and let go. It centers a little more to the left. The wheels are centering differently when I turn different directions. This is the case when I turn from lock to lock, and a little. It is a KO PROPO 2144 metal gear digital servo. I checked the first "plastic gear" and it does not seem stripped. Is this normal, or a servo malfunction? I know its not the car because it did the same thing in another car of mine.

Thanks in advance!
 
1. No grease on steel pinion gear area(part no 11612) and steel ring gear (part no 11610).

Grease will only cut down on the noise, but will not affect the wear of the ring and pinion gears at all as they are hardened already. We're working on a coating for the gears so that grease isn't necessary and noise reduction will be a result.

2. Both differential outdrives (part no 11609) in the rear wheels are not hardened steel. The dogbone pins has slowly eaten the opening of the outdrives.

Hardened outdrives have been tested, and will replace the current parts stock eventually. I tested some that were too hard, and they just snapped at the first jump! So we found that middle ground and will implement the change asap. It may take a few weeks for the new parts to arrive. I'm hoping they get here before the Nitro Challenge in Hemet. New diff bevel gears are also on the way...they haven't been tested yet, but should be more durable. The teeth are completely redesigned, and the gear itself is more solid.

3. The screws that hold the aluminum chasis brace and the chasis always.... always.... gets loose ( even if you keep putting on lock tite )

Well, I don't know what to do to fix that. Maybe "crunch" the threads on the screw a little with pliers...although that may strip out the brace if overdone.

The clutch assembly might have extra washers to remove play in the clutch bell. Blue loctite should work fine for the CVJ setscrews...I would recommend using just one setscrew instead of the two, however. The center rear outdrive is pretty easy to get to, all you have to do is remove 5 screws (four for the rear gearbox, and one for the chassis brace), and it's usually the first one to get loose! Two setscrews seems to push the CVJ pin out if not tightened correctly.

Also, the car should have 2-3 degrees of toe-out to give the car some low-speed steering with the standard 94102 servo. If you have higher-torque servos installed as indicated, just changed it to 1 degree and you should be fine. As far as the steering goes, check the spring on the servo saver/bellcrank. Make sure it is tight by turning the spring tensioner all the way clockwise.

Happy racing,

-Cameron
 
Clutch shoe question

wagnerov...

just finished putting 5mm shims on all the diffs and its feels like the gears are meshing better now.

Had a few laps and the clutch spring snapped, so the tires run even on idle. Looks like the clutch shoe needs a replacement too.

Does Kyosho aluminum shoe and springs fit the swift flywheel? If not, what other buggy clutch and spring would fit swifts flywheel?

The reason i ask is because my swift buggy is here in manila philippines and there are no swift parts here.
 
Hey guys,

I just finished changing out my shock pistons, I put in pistons for the mbx5 had to open up the shaft hole a little, replaced the springs with blue ofna's, changed the bladders mine were tearing on the edges, probably too much manipulation on my part, 45 wt in the front and 50 wt in the rear. That may be too high, we'll see. I'm hoping this let's me take bigger jumps, I bent two rear shafts with the stock setup, I figured I'd try springs and pistons before I tried complete new shocks. I will let you know how it handles. Have to wait for the snow to clear and for it to dry up. Yup it snowed out here in Lubbock, TX. Have you swift owners done any oter mods?? :jet:
 
Kyosho clutches will fit right on, from what I understand. Our team drivers are using a standard composite clutch, not the aluminum ones, along with a 1.0mm clutch spring. There is also a new 13t clutch bell coming out, without that circlip in the middle.

They're also recommending a shock piston with 1.3mm holes, and 30wt oil in the rear and 40wt up front. We'll have our own parts made soon, but for now, I understand the Mugen parts fit with little modification. I gotta do all these things to my car before Hemet next weekend!
 
I got my swift buggy on christmas eve and I love but it is a lot of work.
it is my first car :redbuggy:

is there a way to recoil my pull start or do i have to bye a new one
 
It is quite difficult to spool up a pull start that has been unspooled. I would try it first and if it doesn't spool back as you pull the pull start, buy a new one. Hope this helps.
 
Hey Swift folks,

I got one of these beasts too. Never touched the road as yet but will this weekend.

What is a great glow plug to use after the break in ???

I'm running 20% Monster.

Nice to meet all you folks.

Mikey
 
..os A-3 plugs are good for the .21 engines I like them.. also


!!!! GOOD LUCK SWIFT RACING TEAM!!!!

I hope you guys do good cameron!!
RACE ON!!

TURBO JOHNNY
 
I watched mikey buy his, it was such a good deal i bought one too. Cya on the track sunday mikey!
 
Cameron,

I would appreciate if you could let us know when this hardened outdrives gets out to the market. I just bought a new set of 4 outdrives but don't expect this to last long. Same goes with the diff gears. They easily wear off and lock/skip. Let us know when the newly designed diff bevel gears get to Sheldon and other LHS.

Thanks.

Originally posted by wagnerov

2. Both differential outdrives (part no 11609) in the rear wheels are not hardened steel. The dogbone pins has slowly eaten the opening of the outdrives.

Hardened outdrives have been tested, and will replace the current parts stock eventually. I tested some that were too hard, and they just snapped at the first jump! So we found that middle ground and will implement the change asap. It may take a few weeks for the new parts to arrive. I'm hoping they get here before the Nitro Challenge in Hemet. New diff bevel gears are also on the way...they haven't been tested yet, but should be more durable. The teeth are completely redesigned, and the gear itself is more solid.


-Cameron
Click to expand...
 
JOOOOOOOOEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Hey buddy, Nice to see you on the board. Wanna race ??? heh heh heh. I bet the Swift wins.

Ohhh, You got a great deal as well.

:whhooo: :ale: :whhooo:
:burp: :banana: :banana: :banana:
 
Originally posted by nitro4mikey
JOOOOOOOOEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Hey buddy, Nice to see you on the board. Wanna race ??? heh heh heh. I bet the Swift wins.

Ohhh, You got a great deal as well.

:whhooo: :ale: :whhooo:
:burp: :banana: :banana: :banana:
Click to expand...

Hey Mike. Welcome aboard :dance:

Roger
 
A shipment just came in this week, with a few new outdrives and lots of other new goodies...let me just say "hardened" describes many of the parts. Unfortunately, we have enough for testing (err, racing at Hemet) purposes only, but if all goes well, they will be incorporated into the next run of Swift RTR's.

We also got in a new prototype Setup Station for 1/8th buggies, it measures camber, caster, toe, width, and other alignment measurements. Think there's a market for it? Estimated retail would be $150 (street prices are always lower).
 
What Up Mikey!
Check your private messages! Gonna go get a couple of fuel filters today for it. I can pick you up a couple if you want.

I see 1 person uses the O.S. A3 glow plug. Is that what the rest of you guys using?
 
Originally posted by wagnerov
A shipment just came in this week, with a few new outdrives and lots of other new goodies...let me just say "hardened" describes many of the parts. Unfortunately, we have enough for testing (err, racing at Hemet) purposes only, but if all goes well, they will be incorporated into the next run of Swift RTR's.
Click to expand...

If these upgraded parts will be incorporated into the next run of Swift RTRs for free, then what will you do for us guys who currently have the current run of Swifts? The outdrives on my are already starting to wear (pin of CVJ creating indentations) and I only have 6 tanks of breaking in my engine through it (half throttle, very little stop and go). A discounted price will at least by nice.

Regarding the Setup Station, I will definitely purchase it if the price is right. I am in the market for one of these and been taking a close look at the Hudy. If you can make it less than the Hudy, I'm in.:thumbup:

Also, I have a question regarding shimming the diffs. Alot of you have stated that you have installed shims in the diffs to get a better mesh. What size shims are you using? Where can I buy them from? Where exactly do they go? Any tips are greatly appreciated. My LHS's carry more Pokeman cards than they do hardware, so I will probably have to get them off the net.

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance!:hi:
 
Last edited:
yeah what r guys going to do w/ the swift guys that dont have those part .are u going to market them discount prices? my cvj's r wearing out already and i only have 4 tanket halve throtle constantly
>thx 1swiftbuggy
:iris: :iris:

is there going to be pullstart parts out there because my pullstart keeps breaking>thx 1swift buggy

would it just be easyer to go to a boxstarter>thx in advance:redbuggy:
 

RC Builds

Back
Top