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PRP Swift

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Originally posted by slothy



whoa bro thats super heavy weight.. usally its more like 30-40wt.. where did you hear the 2 foot rule ? the buggy will bottom out, no way around that.. try heavier springs with some 40weight
Click to expand...

I have to agree with Slothy here, buggies and chassis slap go hand in hand, this is not a monster truck. Plus chassis slap on dirt does no harm, all that ever happened was the occasional rock was in the dirt where I would slap and maybe put a little scratch up front

This chassis saw a whole season of hard practice and racing on a dirt track (never drove it on pavement)

535storm1.jpg


mostly just a little of the anodizing came off. I can see why you need a heavier weight if your piston holes are bigger, but 70-80 will blow shock bladder on medium to big jumps almost garunteed. I have seen guys go as high as 60wt, but just in the rear and they had drilled the piston holes bigger, and still had shock bladder problems.
 
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Do you think this buggy is worth 500$ I mean that is alot How does it rank next to a ofna buggy. I am thinking of getting a buggy, and I might get this one, If it is good for bashing and good for speed. When I hear buggy I think of some thing that can beat a Mt at bashing and beat a tourning car at racing, A 1/8th buggy is king of rc cars.... In my mind
 
$500 for a RTR with carbon fiber, I would say it's a great deal.

especially with the support they seem to be giving!
 
is there any place I can pick one up off the internet?
let me know where, i want one....
 
i seen one at my local dealer - here is his number see what they are selling them for (may have been a customers even i dont know)


(586)997-4840
 
HP Invent, your link doesn't work. Well it works but site is under construction. Any alibi's.

:opps:
 
Sorry Lightfytr: I had the wrong URL. I edited my post and corrected it. Check them out.
 
I am not really going to get into in a public forum but if anyone is curious why I will NEVER do business with Atlas Hobbies again let me know and I will send you a PM explaining what happened.
 
would anyone recommend putting springs or small pieces of fuel tubing between the brakes in this pic, I saw this in a mag???????

:stick:
 

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Or you can mail order the parts at Sheldon's hobbies in San Jose, Cal. I know they have parts available also.
 
Larry's Performance RC

(586)997-4840

Call them, they have them for $425 RTR
Tell Them I told you to call

thanks,
Josh
 
Re: Larry's Performance RC

Originally posted by rcracer4723
(586)997-4840

Call them, they have them for $425 RTR
Tell Them I told you to call

thanks,
Josh
Click to expand...


cool i seen one up there, didnt know if it was theirs or a customers
 
CVJ pins

Just a reminder: Make sure you use a RED loc-tite or any other form of loc-tite that will make a tight bond on the set-screws that go into the CVJ barrals that lock down the pin. It happened to me once and I don't want it to happen to you. Just sharing my experience. I haven't tested my CVJ's yet with the 1 set screw in the barral. I'll let you guys know as soon as I hit the track......hopefully soon

:drool:
 
Diff's

I have placed locking adhesive on all CVJ screwson four wheels, but you must check on it on every run cause it can still come loose every now and then. I did not reach the center differential CVJ, as it is too much work removing and installing back all those parts.

I have a question to all those who have opened the front , center and rear differentials. What oil was put there during factory assembly? Is it grease or silicone oil? Because if it's the right silicone oil weights that was put in the factory, then there is no need to disassemble and assemble putting diff oil's.

I noticed the buggy is a little noisy when run on half to full throtle. SOunds like metal to metal gear sound. Is that normal?

I also noticed some shaved black plastic like material that always come out near the center diff. I can't determine if its coming from the clutch shoes or the brake pads. If anyone has the same observations I would appreciate being enlightened on this.
 
Can someone answer my question about the fuel tubing between brakes, it's on the end of page 2 there is also an attatched pic. Thanks
:flamer:
 
Originally posted by Lightfytr
Can someone answer my question about the fuel tubing between brakes, it's on the end of page 2 there is also an attatched pic. Thanks
:flamer:
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I had posted a response to this but I don't know where it went :shrug: I use springs from an ink pen. Cut them down to size and put them between the brake pads. That way when you let off the brakes, the springs will push the pads apart.
 
Flyin,

I do appreciate it, I had seem some that come with springs and then I saw in a mag to cut fuel tubing. Great stuff.:worship:
 
Re: Diff's

Originally posted by asar
I have placed locking adhesive on all CVJ screwson four wheels, but you must check on it on every run cause it can still come loose every now and then. I did not reach the center differential CVJ, as it is too much work removing and installing back all those parts.

I have a question to all those who have opened the front , center and rear differentials. What oil was put there during factory assembly? Is it grease or silicone oil? Because if it's the right silicone oil weights that was put in the factory, then there is no need to disassemble and assemble putting diff oil's.

I noticed the buggy is a little noisy when run on half to full throtle. SOunds like metal to metal gear sound. Is that normal?

I also noticed some shaved black plastic like material that always come out near the center diff. I can't determine if its coming from the clutch shoes or the brake pads. If anyone has the same observations I would appreciate being enlightened on this.
Click to expand...

Asar: What I did with my CVJ as a precausion is that I got some heat shrink and covered the area where the pin slides in. You'll need to use a long piece to cover that shole area.

Its silicon oil and the stock wieghts are 5000frt/7000center/1000rear.

As for the noise coming from your car, check your gear mesh. I had the same issue, but when I adjusted it, it wasn't louder than usually.

That black material that you see coming form the center diff location is the clutch shoes. I looked at mine and they seems alright.
 
Re: Re: Diff's

Thanks HP Invent

So I assume the silicone oils are ok during factory installation and there is no need to open it and re-lube it with silicone oil?

As for the noise..... it means it's too tight and should have a bigger gap between the metal gear mesh?

I checked and opened the clutch to check if it's the one shaving off but it looks ok. However, after every run i still notice some black shaved plastic in center diff/brake area. But not as many as during the first runs though.


Originally posted by HP Invent


Its silicon oil and the stock wieghts are 5000frt/7000center/1000rear.

As for the noise coming from your car, check your gear mesh. I had the same issue, but when I adjusted it, it wasn't louder than usually.

That black material that you see coming form the center diff location is the clutch shoes. I looked at mine and they seems alright.
Click to expand...
 

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