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Lightfytr

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Swift Buggy Owners!!

Hello all. This is my first post. I am a new owner of a Swift RTR. Unfortunately I can't open it until X-mas. Wifey won't budge on that one. I have been searching everywhere for info, but I have come to realize this thing is hot off the press. If any of you have one or see's one in action please put your ideas here. I'm back into RC after 13 years. So all guidance with this bad boy is appreciated. I bought a JR z590 for steering to put on until I replace the stock and put that one on throttle/braking. For what it's worth kit seems great, awesome radio. We'll see soon enough. Also there is a pretty good R&D article on this car in R/C Car magazine.:tank:
 
Re: Swift Buggy Owners!!

Originally posted by Lightfytr
Hello all. This is my first post. I am a new owner of a Swift RTR. Unfortunately I can't open it until X-mas. Wifey won't budge on that one. I have been searching everywhere for info, but I have come to realize this thing is hot off the press. If any of you have one or see's one in action please put your ideas here. I'm back into RC after 13 years. So all guidance with this bad boy is appreciated. I bought a JR z590 for steering to put on until I replace the stock and put that one on throttle/braking. For what it's worth kit seems great, awesome radio. We'll see soon enough. Also there is a pretty good R&D article on this car in R/C Car magazine.:tank:
Click to expand...

Lightfytr: Sweeeet. I also have the swift to and I've been very happy with the durability and overall performance with the car considering that this is my first 1/8th scale buggy. I would reccomend afew things before you take it on its first spin.

1) Loc-tite all the set-screws that are related to the CVJ's. I used red loc-tite on all of mine.

2) Loc-tite all screws that have metal to metal contact. I used blue loc-tite for these.

I have a few set-ups for the car cause I raced it at a local track and TQ'ed with the car. PM me if you have any questions. :ale:
 
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HP, that's great. I really do appreciate it. Are you using stock servo's? I bought a JR z590 for the steering and I will use the standard for the throttle. What do you think? Also have you done any mods yet?:cheers:
 
Lightfytr: I took out the airtronics radio system complete out and replaced it with my KO mars set-up. The servos I'm running are KO 2174 ( steering ) and the KO 2173 ( throttle ).

As for modifications, I changed out the oil and pisitons in the shocks. I'm currently running 1.3mm pistons and 40 wieght front/ 30 wieght rear. I stuck to the same diff oil also. I think the manuel has 3000 frt/ 7000ctr/ 1000 rear. I also shimmed up the gears in all the diffs. Just use the 2 shims for each diff. I also changed out the top front arms cause the car has too much caster. So, I cutted the front arms down and shimmed them from the front to remove caster. Now, it steers pretty good.
 
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question, what do you mean you shimmed up the gears? sorry I'm a newbie. I figured with all the adjustments it looks like you can make, it would be ok. Thanks again.:tophat:
 
Originally posted by Lightfytr
question, what do you mean you shimmed up the gears? sorry I'm a newbie. I figured with all the adjustments it looks like you can make, it would be ok. Thanks again.:tophat:
Click to expand...

If you open up any gear diff assembly, you'll see the bevel gear configuration. There are 2 large gears on top and bottom of the gear diff. Remove the big gear and you'll see a set-pin that holds the large gear. Remove that set-pin and place a thin shim under the set-pin. You see it more clearly when you're at it. Do the same for the front, middle, and rear.
 
i tried letting the buggy freefall from two feet and it bottoms out. The chasis hits the floor. I guess the silicone shock oil in the RTR was about 50 or 60. So I was about to replace it with something heavier, like 70 or 80 until i read your post replacing it to 30 rear; 40 front. Does that make it lighter than the one placed in the RTR unit? Does it mean it is now softer; will be more prone to bottoming out....?

What do you mean 1.3mm pistons? Where do you adjust that?

Thanks
 
Asar or anyone else. Is that a generally good suspension test? Is 2 feet the normal check height? So far I plan on loctite'ing everything (that needs to be), switching out the servo's, and the grease in the diff. Does this sound like a good start guys? Thanks up front.
 
Use the 1.3 pistons from any 1/8th scale shock. You may have to open up the hole a little to make it fit on the shock shaft. I believe the hole on the pistons are like 1.5-1.6mm on teh RTR unit. Using a smaller hole piston inside the shock will make the shock rebound a little slower due to the size of the holes on the piston ( 1.3mm ). Currently on my car, I have a 3 hole (1.2) piston on the rear and a 2 hole (1.3) on the front. Shock oil 40 front and 30 in back.

Originally posted by Lightfytr
Asar or anyone else. Is that a generally good suspension test? Is 2 feet the normal check height? So far I plan on loctite'ing everything (that needs to be), switching out the servo's, and the grease in the diff. Does this sound like a good start guys? Thanks up front.
Click to expand...

I used philwood water proof greese on my diff gears. Its a little thinner base than the grease that they used on the RTR. You can get the philwood grease at any bike shop.
 
Originally posted by asar
i tried letting the buggy freefall from two feet and it bottoms out. The chasis hits the floor. I guess the silicone shock oil in the RTR was about 50 or 60. So I was about to replace it with something heavier, like 70 or 80 until i read your post replacing it to 30 rear; 40 front. Does that make it lighter than the one placed in the RTR unit? Does it mean it is now softer; will be more prone to bottoming out....?

What do you mean 1.3mm pistons? Where do you adjust that?

Thanks
Click to expand...


whoa bro thats super heavy weight.. usally its more like 30-40wt.. where did you hear the 2 foot rule ? the buggy will bottom out, no way around that.. try heavier springs with some 40weight
 
Hello,

For the stock pistons, we try to run a pretty heavy oil because the holes in the pistons are so big, usually around 1.45mm (Huuuuuge!)...that's the only way to get promper damping with the stock setup.

However, we've already played around with other company's pistons to make up for that shortfall, and that's when we can use lighter oil.

We're working on a full sway bar set for the car and new springs and pistons. They should be out in a month or so.
 
Well this is turning out to be an awesome thread. I am really excited about this buggy. I emailed Cameron Wagner from Power Racing, he replied the next day and said parts should be available on shopatron next month. He is also participating in this thread. You can't ask for too much more than that. Well maybe winning lotto numbers. :clap:
Asar and HP invent, keep the info coming. Thanks again. Remember, I am enjoying my car through you guys until X-mas.
 
Lightfytr: No problem. Just let us know and we'll be able to awnser your questions. At the same time, I'm going try to awnser as many questions I can for all Swift users. I will share my experiences and post updates on what I did with my car to make it that much better. :beer:
 
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CVJ's

CVJ's for the swift: I've been talking to my buddies about this issue with the pin slipping out. If you look carefully, there are 2 set-screws in the CVJ barral that hold down the pin. Remove one of those set screws. Use red loc-tite and tightned the one set screw. I did this last night and notice a significate difference when using just one-set screw. I even tried pushing out the pin with a ice-pick and the pin didn't budge at all. If you think about it, if you're using two set-screws to lock down the pin that connects the bone and axle, you have equal amount of pressure on both sides of the pin; which in turn will cause the pin to still slip out under load. But if you have 1 set-screw only, then you have pressure on one side of the pin that locks the pin in the barrel. I'm gonna try to run the car tommorrow and i'll give you guys a status report on what happened. :redbuggy:
 
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How much is this thing U.S. money? And it comes with a Mx-3 radio? That is Sweet. I am thinking like $500 for this RtR. Am I right?
 
Good call dougc, I actually got mine for $450 in Houston. They were selling it for $499, talked him down a bit. Some mags though have listed the MSRP for $450. It really seems like the best deal for the price. One thing you will notice is that this car is not too heavy at all. Maybe when I get it open I will put some wings on it.

:drool:
 
Re: CVJ's

it sounds like a good idea, but just using one set screw will put preasure on one side of the pin. I think that will bend the CVJ pin in the long run. I run my buggy without using thread lock adhesive and at one time the CVJ pin in the left front wheel almost fell off, bent the pin and ruined the set screw. A few minutes after, after a few jumps and a turnturtle, i lost another CVJ pin from the rear tire.

I am now putting AE factory team locking adhesive on all CVJ on both screws and will see what happens after Christmas.


Originally posted by HP Invent
CVJ's for the swift: I've been talking to my buddies about this issue with the pin slipping out. If you look carefully, there are 2 set-screws in the CVJ barral that hold down the pin. Remove one of those set screws. Use red loc-tite and tightned the one set screw. I did this last night and notice a significate difference when using just one-set screw. I even tried pushing out the pin with a ice-pick and the pin didn't budge at all. If you think about it, if you're using two set-screws to lock down the pin that connects the bone and axle, you have equal amount of pressure on both sides of the pin; which in turn will cause the pin to still slip out under load. But if you have 1 set-screw only, then you have pressure on one side of the pin that locks the pin in the barrel. I'm gonna try to run the car tommorrow and i'll give you guys a status report on what happened. :redbuggy:
Click to expand...
 
buying a swift!!

Well, imbroken according to Cameron Wagner (Swift production guy) they are trying to do exclusive business with hobby shops, I think alot of them are slow to catch on. I guess I understand being a new untested RTR and all. But I haven't found anything online yet for it. I have been traveling for about the last 2 weeks and visited about 15 hobbyshops throughout Texas, about 5 of them knew about the car. I'm confident it will pick up.

:idea:
 

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