Project Rival MT10

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ahr43

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Location
Harris County, Texas
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Hey guys and Gals. Picked this off Ebay last week. New AE MT10 slider. Looks like a good project and a companion to my RTR MT10.

Enjoying the RTR Rival so much it will remain a bone-stock 2S. This slider I can play with. Not exactly sure how it will end up. Making this up as I go along. Got some stuff on order. It'll be 3S power unit for certain-perhaps with a 4S option built in.

Got a head start today while inspecting the chassis. Removed the imitation side pipes from either side. Screws that hold them in place also secure the side rails. Dug into the basher stash and came up with four shorter M3 x 6mm replacements to re-secure the rails.

Happy to have you along on this build adventure. Be posting up as I progress along. Cheers. 'AC'
 

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Hey guys and Gals. Picked this off Ebay last week. New AE MT10 slider. Looks like a good project and a companion to my RTR MT10.

Enjoying the RTR Rival so much it will remain a bone-stock 2S. This slider I can play with. Not exactly sure how it will end up. Making this up as I go along. Got some stuff on order. It'll be 3S power unit for certain-perhaps with a 4S option built in.

Got a head start today while inspecting the chassis. Removed the imitation side pipes from either side. Screws that hold them in place also secure the side rails. Dug into the basher stash and came up with four shorter M3 x 6mm replacements to re-secure the rails.

Happy to have you along on this build adventure. Be posting up as I progress along. Cheers. 'AC'
Looking sweet! Seems like a fun project! You might want to go over the drivetrain, and grease/adjust where needed, then check that all the screws on the model are tight. You could also check the shocks while waiting for the other parts to come!
 
Thanks, RCD. Everything feels pretty good. Feel no binds or drags in the drivetrain. Can't feel any air in the shocks. Gonna call it good to go for now.

Temps clawed their way back up the high 50's (degF) today. Finally got back out to the shop again. Got a start on the AE MT10 (clear) body install. Fit a pair of RPM Skid Rails to the roof. Holding off on full install until after painting.

Had planned on fixing a set of RPM twin turbo's to the hood and fixing an Arrma wing to the rear. Back burner'd both. The RPM twin turbo's seem better suited to a wider hood model-like a 1/10 SCT. This body is a bit narrow for them to look right. And a single turbo install looks strange too. Canked that idea for now.

Rear wing install will require a special bracket and not sure I want the downforce anyway. Holding off on that too-at least until I see how she runs on my 3S install. Did lower all four body posts two hole positions. Dropped the body down over the chassis sides a tad.

Next comes scuffing the body for a rattle can paint job. Something I've not done for years. Been boning up on it by watching YT vids. Thanks for looking in. Cheers. 'AC'
 

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Thanks, RCD. Everything feels pretty good. Feel no binds or drags in the drivetrain. Can't feel any air in the shocks. Gonna call it good to go for now.

Temps clawed their way back up the high 50's (degF) today. Finally got back out to the shop again. Got a start on the AE MT10 (clear) body install. Fit a pair of RPM Skid Rails to the roof. Holding off on full install until after painting.

Had planned on fixing a set of RPM twin turbo's to the hood and fixing an Arrma wing to the rear. Back burner'd both. The RPM twin turbo's seem better suited to a wider hood model-like a 1/10 SCT. This body is a bit narrow for them to look right. And a single turbo install looks strange too. Canked that idea for now.

Rear wing install will require a special bracket and not sure I want the downforce anyway. Holding off on that too-at least until I see how she runs on my 3S install. Did lower all four body posts two hole positions. Dropped the body down over the chassis sides a tad.

Next comes scuffing the body for a rattle can paint job. Something I've not done for years. Been boning up on it by watching YT vids. Thanks for looking in. Cheers. 'AC'
Usually the shortened version of my username is "TRD", but "RCD" would work too, and feel free to call me by my real first name, Isaac. Good, so the drivetrain and shocks are mostly settled now (I say mostly, as once you get all the stuff in, the ride height will be different, so the suspension and shocks will need to be tuned accordingly).

At first I was like "50 degrees in winter?!", then I remembered you're in Texas! Sounds good!

Arrma wing would probably be good, so long as you can get the positioning right, and fix it down firmly. I take it you're going with a low, slim truck style wing like the one found on the Arrma Outcast? Turbos would looks kinda strange, like you said, best suited for a wide car, like a SCT, or maybe something like the Arrma Felony? Also twin turbos usually aren't found on pickups, but this is RC! More downforce will give you a more planted rear end at speed, but will also lift those front wheels just a little easier. Given, the Arrma truck wings don't seem to generate a ton of downforce. Some people like high-riding body shells, but like you, I prefer more "slammed" ones, if you will. TBH I grimace whenever I see a gap between the top of the chassis and the bottom of the body shell's side panels, I like my shells to at least touch, if not cover the chassis side guards/"nerf bars".

Yeah, scuff it, and go over it 2 times with some rubbing alcohol to remove any grease and oil left behind. The paint won't stick well if you don't, and keep in mind that paint won't hide imperfections!
 
O.K., TRD it is Issaac. Arnold, Here. 'AC' is the go-to handle.

Sounds as though we are like-minded regarding RC set-up. Appreciate any thoughts you have on this project and will consider their application. That goes for the rest of the RCT group as well.

Phase 1 will be a 3s power unit. Looking to ~50mph tops. Already have a 3s capable power unit. That is within the MT10's design envelope, so it gets first call. Thinking a forward rake on the chassis/body and the molded-in rear spoiler will provide adequate downforce with minimal drag. Dropping the body down over the chassis sides will help keep air from getting in under the body.

Phase 2 is still getting brainstormed. Like to bump the package up to 4s and top ~60mph. Have a set of P-L Trencher Belted standing by making this slider into a roller soon. Trencher Belted are 75mph rated with no ballooning. Want to build in speed, but not lose the monster truck theme. Tricky do. Thinking the wing may go up front-splitter style-to negate chassis lift. Phase 2 is when the MT10 loses the sliding nylon torque-tube axles and gains a set of AE CVD's. Already on the Amain wish list.

Body prep for paint begins today. Easy squeezy perimeter paint job. No masking. Orange fading to yellow backed with white. My 2008 RC dragster was painted like that and provided great full-course visibility day or night. Didn't look too bad either.

That's the plan TRD and guys. Cheers. 'AC'
 
O.K., TRD it is Issaac. Arnold, Here. 'AC' is the go-to handle.

Sounds as though we are like-minded regarding RC set-up. Appreciate any thoughts you have on this project and will consider their application. That goes for the rest of the RCT group as well.

Phase 1 will be a 3s power unit. Looking to ~50mph tops. Already have a 3s capable power unit. That is within the MT10's design envelope, so it gets first call. Thinking a forward rake on the chassis/body and the molded-in rear spoiler will provide adequate downforce with minimal drag. Dropping the body down over the chassis sides will help keep air from getting in under the body.

Phase 2 is still getting brainstormed. Like to bump the package up to 4s and top ~60mph. Have a set of P-L Trencher Belted standing by making this slider into a roller soon. Trencher Belted are 75mph rated with no ballooning. Want to build in speed, but not lose the monster truck theme. Tricky do. Thinking the wing may go up front-splitter style-to negate chassis lift. Phase 2 is when the MT10 loses the sliding nylon torque-tube axles and gains a set of AE CVD's. Already on the Amain wish list.

Body prep for paint begins today. Easy squeezy perimeter paint job. No masking. Orange fading to yellow backed with white. My 2008 RC dragster was painted like that and provided great full-course visibility day or night. Didn't look too bad either.

That's the plan TRD and guys. Cheers. 'AC'
Either way's fine, hate to say this, but my name is not completely intuitive, as most people would think it's spelled with two "s"s, and/or two "a"s or just one "a". But it's actually one "s", two "a"s, Isaac.

Anyway, yeah, no problem! There's not a whole lot you can do without the electrics, as you'll need all them in, including the battery, to get the right truck weight in order to fully and properly tune your suspension. You'll also need a servo to center the horn on it, ect.

50mph flat out seems like a good speed for a 4x4 1/10 scale off road truck! Usually a forward rake/angle is seen on speed run cars, but that could work for you too, just watch if the front end gets hung up on any obstacles.

4s for speed runs, but 4s for bashing may be a handful and that power is gonna break stuff! Just keep that in mind :) Also, I'm pretty sure that the faster your acceleration, the more ballooning.

Yeah, backing your body shells with white paint will make the colors "pop" a bit more, and use black is you want a more "dulled" look.
 
The plan was for a perimeter fade paint job. Did not quite come out that way. I shot the orange too far up. Oh well. Better luck next time. Actually, it is not all that bad that I can't live with it. Perhaps it will look better once the protective film is stripped off and stickering gets applied. For now letting it cure before introducing it to the slider. Kinda different in not having to use window masks. Sticker windows are part of the AE supplied sheet with the clear body.

Tamiya rattle cans. PS-7 Orange, PS-6 Yellow and PS-1 White back up. Cheers. 'AC'
 

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Love your color choice, I think it's going to look pretty danged good with the decals in place. :thumbs-up:
Thanks, buddy. Notice on one of your recent posts-Stampede/Slash I think it was-with the orange body. No headlight or taillight stickers on the body. I kind of liked that look. Will try it on this project MT10 body. 'AC'
 
The plan was for a perimeter fade paint job. Did not quite come out that way. I shot the orange too far up. Oh well. Better luck next time. Actually, it is not all that bad that I can't live with it. Perhaps it will look better once the protective film is stripped off and stickering gets applied. For now letting it cure before introducing it to the slider. Kinda different in not having to use window masks. Sticker windows are part of the AE supplied sheet with the clear body.

Tamiya rattle cans. PS-7 Orange, PS-6 Yellow and PS-1 White back up. Cheers. 'AC'
That's fine, I'm sure when I do my first paint job (I actually haven't painted stuff with spray paint before 🤣🤣), it won't be as good! Yeah, with the film off, and stickers on, it'll look more vibrant and good!
 
Slider gets a body. Always times past have done the body last. Change up trying it differently with this project. Sharon keeps telling me it needs the window stickers. I may eventually get around to that. For now leaving it like it is. RPM skid rails just fit the roof length.

Next going for a roller by fitting the Pro-Line Belted Trenchers. Got a start on one. Three left to go. Cheers. 'AC'
 

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Listen to Sharon! 🤣 Seriously, I think the window stickers will give it a little needed contrast.
Truth be told, I should probably listen to both of you. ;)

Kinda researching one way visibility window films as a justification for doing it this way. Thinking it is BMW or Mercedes that is looking into that I read somewhere. Also recall Tamiya had a killer window film back in the mid-late 90s that was translucent and changed color depending how one held the car and how the light hit it. Sure like to find a sheet of that to try on the MT10 project.

Anyway, going down rabbit holes is always fun for me. Cheers. 'AC'
 

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You could get all 80's on it and add window Louvres. 🤣
ROFLOL. That cracks me up, Doom! Do you mean like my Rusty (below)? Had the body custom painted and requested a clear rear window. When it came back without it, had to fake in a window from a louver thingy-front grill think it was...

Back to the MT10. Thinking perhaps window outlines with a Sharpie might provide better definition? Cheers. 'AC'
 

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Slider gets a body. Always times past have done the body last. Change up trying it differently with this project. Sharon keeps telling me it needs the window stickers. I may eventually get around to that. For now leaving it like it is. RPM skid rails just fit the roof length.

Next going for a roller by fitting the Pro-Line Belted Trenchers. Got a start on one. Three left to go. Cheers. 'AC'
Looking good! I do say you should put the window stickers on, it'll look much nicer. Just too much orange/yellow right now! Is Sharon your wife? A lot of time women have good color taste....🤣🤣 No offense!
 
No offense taken, Isaac. Yeah guys, Sharon is my longtime companion. She is a published author, accomplished artist and a sometimes-interior decorator. She even has three RC crawling comps on her resume. Back when we had the Losi/Gatekeeper MRC. Good eye she has for color combo's-although she doesn't like either orange or yellow-but still says it looks good.

Leaning more to fixing those window stickers. Me and stickers. The timing has to be right to do 'em. So may be a while. . . which is o.k. Still lots to do on this project until completion. Cheers and thanks for looking in all. 'AC'
 
No offense taken, Isaac. Yeah guys, Sharon is my longtime companion. She is a published author, accomplished artist and a sometimes-interior decorator. She even has three RC crawling comps on her resume. Back when we had the Losi/Gatekeeper MRC. Good eye she has for color combo's-although she doesn't like either orange or yellow-but still says it looks good.

Leaning more to fixing those window stickers. Me and stickers. The timing has to be right to do 'em. So may be a while. . . which is o.k. Still lots to do on this project until completion. Cheers and thanks for looking in all. 'AC'
I know what you mean about stickers. I really hate them, and getting a project to the point of needing to apply the decals puts me in slow mode. I have gotten pretty good at it though. It is just tedious work cutting them out sometimes that I hate. My eyes just aren't what they used to be.
 
No offense taken, Isaac. Yeah guys, Sharon is my longtime companion. She is a published author, accomplished artist and a sometimes-interior decorator. She even has three RC crawling comps on her resume. Back when we had the Losi/Gatekeeper MRC. Good eye she has for color combo's-although she doesn't like either orange or yellow-but still says it looks good.

Leaning more to fixing those window stickers. Me and stickers. The timing has to be right to do 'em. So may be a while. . . which is o.k. Still lots to do on this project until completion. Cheers and thanks for looking in all. 'AC'
I appreciate your effort to get my name right "AC"! Wow, she seems like a great "companion" AC! She even does RC crawling! The bright color scheme will help you see it better at distance, and when you accidentally send it into the brush/bushes you'll have an easier time retrieving it then, say, painting it moss green and dirt brown! 🤣🤣
 
On the decals, peel the backing about half way off, then cut it there. Then, remove about a 1/8" strip from the backing and reinstall it on the decal. You will be left with a 1/8" strip of backing missing from the center of the decal. Now place the decal on the body and position it while trying not to press down on the exposed strip in the center. Once you have the decal lined up, use your finger to press down the exposed area really good. Then, you can lift the decal, curling it back over itself, and kinda roll the backing out as you press the decal down from center out. Works like a charm.
 
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