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Project Mini T Evo-X

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Hey Matt, Make sure that you buy a charger, you also buy a balancer, or even better buy a charger with a built in balancer. It will be A LOT better for your batteries and for anyone who lives in the house with you, because they probably wont explode in the house of you balance them correctly and follow the charge guidelines. You're going to get rediculous runtimes with that setup. And I'm glad you went with the mamba, great stuff from castle.
 
i got it in the trunk of my car. i forget the name but it was like something ice. charges everything so i should be good
 
Yeap I know what it is. It doesn't have a balancer though. You can ask some of the electric gurus, but you really need to be charging with a balancer. You can pick up a decent one for 15-30 bucks. That is a REALLY nice charger though, I almost bought one myself.
 
my local hobby town usa had a deal if you bought that ice charger and battery it came with a free balancer so thats what i did =]
 
Alright :), glad to hear it. That really is a nice charger. As I get more LiPos, I pay get one like that so I don't have to carry my hyperion out in the field, I paid so much for it I don't even like to take it out of its cardboard box for fear of house dust lol
 
make sure that it is just tight enoght so it can't slip and it so you wont strip the rear end

i got a MIP ball differential on the way so that should take care of that. and i got a dual disk slipper in there too. so i should be able to adjust to get max power but not ruin the tranny and gears.

now its just a waiting game with tower to get all my parts so i can get this brushless up and running =]
 
The guy that runs the LHS was running the same diff you got coming and a mamba brushless setup with LiPo. We figured he could go ahead and clamp that sucker down (the slipper) and not tear up the MIP stuff. A week later when I went back he told me if I ever built one to make sure that I didn't tighten the slipper all the way. He ended up tearing up some stuff in the diff. He didn't just detroy it where it exploded in a million pieces, but it did break in a few places. Just thought I woud pass the tidbit on. But you will be able to get max power and backflipping torque with the slipper backed off a bit. And with the mamba system, you can program all the throttle and brake curves for your driving so if it's launching too hard for racing, you can tune it where you can get max power while keeping the front end down to get the holeshot.

Matt, you've grown so much in your RC knowledge so fast. You're building some very sick rides, and motivating a lot of people here on the forum. You're like me in the aspect that you're getting into several different areas of RC. Nitro, electric, on-road, monster truck, racing, bashing, mini, etc... I just wanted to let you know that I'm really impressed with that you've already learned in such a short period of time.
 
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yeah i was smart and ordered a total tranny rebuild kit, the mip ball diff rebuild. i got 2 extra spurs, and multiple metal pinions. ready for anything that mamba can throw at it =]
 
I'm not certain, but I can't run my MIP CVD's with my Losi differential, the driver side cup from the gearbox keeps falling out because the cup isnt long enough. I was told I needed to run a MIP differential instead of the losi ball diff. I'm not sure, just thought I'd throw it out here while we are on the topic...

Is there a difference in depth of the Losi and the MIP differential cup on the Passenger side? If not is there something that holds that cup in place when the dogbone isn't there to support it?
 
I'm not certain, but I can't run my MIP CVD's with my Losi differential, the driver side cup from the gearbox keeps falling out because the cup isnt long enough. I was told I needed to run a MIP differential instead of the losi ball diff. I'm not sure, just thought I'd throw it out here while we are on the topic...

Is there a difference in depth of the Losi and the MIP differential cup on the Passenger side? If not is there something that holds that cup in place when the dogbone isn't there to support it?

when i got my mip CVDs they came with a spring that you put in the ball diff. i didnt know what they were for so i didnt put them in and i ran it and they wouldnt stay put. make sure you have those springs installed!!!

as far as i know the ball shafts are exactly the same, its just the gear that is different.
 
What battery connectors are you planning to use with your setup? I'm thinking about swapping over to Traxxas high current connectors today if I go to hobbytown. I also just might come home with some other goodies. :)
 
That's what I have now but I can't get them to solder correctly and they are just a pita to solder neatly. I'm going to get a new soldering iron today anyway because the ones I have right now are older than I am. I just like the design of the Traxxas plugs, but not sure if they perform as well.

I'm tellin' ya, if they have lipo for my rc18 at hobbytown I'm probably coming home with it. I'm just not sure what I want to do with my mini-t, I'm having so much trouble with the slipper, no matter how much I tighten it, it will still sit/spin before taking off. I want some off the line power so I'm not sure but I think I need to tighten the differential? Have you gotten yours in your mini-t yet?
 
no not yet. I'm still running the stock one. i got it in the mail but havent put it in yet
 
Marauder, Radio Shack has a really nice soldering iron thats only about $45 bucks. It's a "race station" style solderin iron, all digital. It goes up to about 880 degrees. If you get some x-acto "X-tra hands", the deans will be very easy to solder. I was having trouble with them, so I traded the guy at the LHS a Venom 5000 mah battery to solder all of my batteries and ESC's for me. He showed an easy way to do it, and I've been doing really good with them ever since. If you want, I could take some pictures to show you how I use the third hand tool to solder them, because its very easy to do.
 
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