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xxh0lywarsxx

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alrighty well i got a tmaxx with the xtm 24/7 conversion, have aluminum arms, shock towers, cvd's, bumpers, .247 engine......i hear that 2.6 horsepower is alot foor the stock tranny and diffs to handle.....I'm asking where to get good metal replacment gears, also what gearing will work on this setup, and what are some good large wheels and tires for this car.......thanks for the help guys



Paul
 
Hey XXX,

Speed is expensive...how fast do ya wanna go?? The gears from Robinson Racing and especially Unlimited Engineering are great from many accounts here and aborad. I'm going with the UE Alluminum primary gear as steel adds allot of rotational mass which will decrease acceleration some. It's all relative though.

Some company is suppose to be coming out with Titanium Maxx tranny gears soon. If they aren't expensive as sin I might end up getting those assuming they perfom well.

Peace
 
Originally posted by xxh0lywarsxx
how much for the set for the diffs and tranny?
Click to expand...

It depends on how hardcore you want your diffs and tranny to be. I would definitley get Alluminum diff cups as the plastic ones can flex and cause you to bust your ring and pinion. The spyder gears in the Stock Maxx tranny can handle some power but I know people who've blown then with the power your engine puts out.

UE diffs are bare none the best avaliable but they're like $300 a set......ouch. You don't have to spend that much money though to get beefy equipment. At the least I'd get the ring and pinion for each diff from RRP and it's gonna run $30 something a set. As for the tranny, I'd do either a RRP or UE FOC (forward only conversion) and then get the UE alluminum primary gear.

Go check out UE's webiste.

Peace
 
Originally posted by xxh0lywarsxx
should i get new aluminim diff cases?
Click to expand...

Hey,

Their's a member here that goes by the handle olds that I'm sure will chime in soon. He's only running an OS .21 (granted that's a killer engine he's got) and he's had to invest a ton of money into his tranny and diffs to keep them running good to handle the big bore power.

Many people think that running Alluminum DIff cases is just for looks. That's not the case as I mentioned above, I've seen guys land hard with big bore conversion and break their ring and pinion from the plastic diff cases flexing.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/cgi-bin/store/13549.html Here's a link to the UE diff cups for the Stock traxxas gears. They aren't cheap but they're on sale now for $56.00 (I'm not sure if it comes with two setups but I think it's one). THey also come with some freebies if you order from him. I orderd them for my truck with Sirio .18.

Peace
 
thank you man I'm just tryign to get a list of stuff i have to replace lol its kinda hard to put one together but thanks for your help

okay i went to the robinson site and they have the forward only tranny for 55 bucks and the diff kits for 42 bucks each all i need besides that is the diff cases right? or am i forgetting anything
 
Once you pass over the bridge and get more power the price-tag goes up. If you try to skimp it will cost you more in the long run. If your serious about it you should look at it as a quality project. Bullet proof is the name of the game. Every part needs to be thought out and researched. For example, Using a stock slipper cost me an entire transmission. The slipper pegs melted and froze the spur to the shaft. the torque went all the way down-line. If I would have spent the 40.00 on an RRP slipper I would have saved 100.00 in repair of the transmission.

One thing to think about is to create a weak link in the drive train. doing this will protect your investment. I choose the front and rear drive shafts. I replace them every 3-4 runs at the cost of $3.00 It takes 3-4 minutes and I have no worries.

Just some thoughts.
 
hmm can you tell me the part number of those weak links you use it sounds like a brilliant idea
 
Eddy's talking about the stock front and rear center sliding splined drive shafts that came with the truck. Traxxas part number 4949X.
 
i have the .15 maxx those are only for the new widemaxx.....will this also affect my tranny and diff parts?
 
My bad.

If you beef up your gears (clutch bell, spur, transmission, ring & pinion) and you've beefed up your outer axles to CVD's then driveline stress will take its toll on the weaker links in the driveline.

In Eddy's case he has beefy gears everywhere and solid CVD outer axles. If the slipper clutch can't handle a severe spike of driveline stress then a stock plastic center driveline axle will break.

I think I heard 30% refer to a weak link component as a "fuse". It's the thing that you want to see break before something else.
 
okay i have the .15 max converted withthe 24/7 conversion....tel me if I'm right..........for diffs i can get aluminim cases and then metal components from robinson racing from 43 bucks a set, then for the tranny i can either do a forward only conversion or do the robinson racing one that will cost about 60 bucks? but do i have to get a new topshaft as well? am i missing anythign? also what is part number for the drive shafts for the old style maxx?
 
As nitroboy said, i'm chiming in.

I run the XTM conversion with the OS 21 RG-X(P) (2hp). To get it to a point that i can drive it for a few gallons without driveline issues, here's what i did:

Integy diff cases
Racers Edge al trans case
RRP trans gears with FOC
Reshimmed proper gear mesh in diffs
Maximizer diff cups with mod'd stock gear
Using XTM's cvd's center and outer
ACNCM bulks and hinge pins
RPM arms
4 trinity black springs on the rear
2 trinity black on the front
2 stock orange on the front

With this setup, i run for hours without a breakdown.

http://www.lightninghobby.com/store/index.asp

This site has the best prices i found for the diff cups, RRP gears, trans case, and arms.

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/st_main.html?p_catid=29

This site for the diff cases and their al bulks are pretty good to. The ACNCM bulks require modifying for a 21 conversion.

Good luck.
 
I love this thread!
For the diffs I chose to use the Kippster Racing cups. I have a habit of blowing cups that use a sliding spider pin. The Kippster use a fixed pin with 3mm screws and RRP modified gear. I also cracked a few spider gears along the way so I went with a set of kippster hardened units as well.

I purchased extra sets because I thought I would have issues with them but they proved to be strong as hell. Look in the for sale thread, I'm selling my extra set.

-Ed
 
SUp guys,

Wdavid - How you doing man? Yeah, I've used the term "fuse" a couple of times and I think it's perfect terminology for this. The mindset with some around here that you need some weaklinks is a great one IMO. It doesn't matter if you spend $3000 building the meanest Maxx possible. If your doing 15-20+ foot jumps with10-13 pounds of metal/plastic and hardcore bashing, when things go seriously wrong then something has got to give...eh. You need a fuse or fuse/s with strategic placement in mind

I ordered the UE Ti centerdrive kit (on sale for $50 something) and I'll be running that with the stock sliders front and rear. The power is coming right off of the Tranny and then to the front and rear sliders (of course) and my thinking is the centerdrive is much more likely to be tweaked first when I run low gearing...we'll c.

Phuck, I need to get my Maxx backtogether, I'm starting to jones a little..hehe.

Back to the subject @ hand.

If your going to be running RPM A-ARms, I'd get the new Alluminum Bulks from Rc Solutions. They aren't just alluminum bulks but they're redesigned them some and with their own steel hinge pin setup. THey claim that they seriously decrease the chance of bending Hinge pins. THe stock hinge pins bend with relative ease but even TItanium can bend or break if you hit a wall going 40mph..lol. I know this from experience. They run around $60 a pair which is actually cheaper then some of the good Alluminum bulks on the market. With RC solutions ALL bulks and RPM A-arms, you should have a strong ass suspension setup. I'll be running stock TraxxASS bulkheads for not as I'll be runnning UE's Allluminum susupesion. With RPM arms I'd buy the Rc solutions bulks myself.

Peace
 
have another question........i have the .15 suspension setup....how much would it be converting to hose indestructable blue rpm arms and a wide maxx suspension?
 

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