• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Problem with engine.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ohmygahitscoby

Hardcore RCTalk User
Messages
3,045
Reaction score
2
Points
136
Location
San Jose
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
You know how you can keep your car idle then rev it up 5 seconds after idling? Well, my car isn't. Once I pull off the glow plug igniter, the engine dies, so what I am doing is I rev the car then if it revs, I can pull out the glow plug igniter. But after this, if I leave the car to idle, I can't get the car to rev or else it'll die. Is it a problem with my needle settings or is this a common error in breaking in the engine?
 
is this happening with the engine cold? I find it makes things much easier if i preheat the engine with a hairdryer, just put it on high and hold it close to the head for about 30 seconds, it should start very easy and keep running as long as your carb is adjusted correctly.
 
Relatively common when breaking in an engine. Once the engine runs for 15-20 seconds with you raising the idle a bit, you should be able to take the heater off. If not, I'd suggest trying to lean it out a bit just to get it to run.

The first few tanks of most engines can be very stubborn.

Snarf's advice to preheat the engine will more than likely help as well.
 
Shutting off when the heater is removed means it's too rich, but it's common during break in. It's also not uncommon to leave the igniter on during these stubborn periods.
Don't lean it any more than is needed to make it idle. You also need to blip it occasionally to blow the 'snot' out of it.
 
"Blip" it? Well, if you mean like rev it a little I've actually started my car once and something came out of the muffler. Is that the snot?
 
Yes that is unburned fuel....when you are breaking in you may even see a continuous mist coming out too. As long as you are running ok that is fine for break in. Also have a spare blow plug on hand as break in can sometime foul them out.
 
your glow plug may be worn out or about to burn out or "die" but another common reason for this is running a bit too rich.
i would recommend not to adjust the needles
just let the plugs fowl because you want to run the engine extremely rich during break in to keep it lubricated and running cool, then after that you can run it how you please, put all of the needles back to factory and go buy yourself 3 or 4 glow plugs and you should be in good shape
 
Yeah, I got a spare just in case. I think I might just go to the LHS and ask them to help me, since I believe I'm doing it wrong, the break in thing. A guy there has the same motor so he'll know what to do.

BTW: When I adjust my LSN, should the engine be able to stay on for a whole tank or just a minute, according to the pdf file.
 
Last edited:
Well you shouldn't set your needles to get a good idle, considering that most throttle is faster than that. But if your needles are correct then it should idle pretty much indefinitely.
 
Some engines will idle indefinitely, but die as soon as you apply throttle due to the crank case being so flooded with fuel.

These engines aren't limited as much as normal engines. The crank case eventually gets so saturated that when you try to give it throttle, it sends a really dense air/fuel mixture into your combustion chamber and cools the plug.

You shouldn't let it idle that long though... it won't get warm enough to heat up properly for break-in.
 
Back
Top