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Pro .15 to trx 3.3 help please

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stock pro .15 short arms...

the turnbuckles are 3.3 stock 6mm
 
When upgrading to the newer maxx parts, buy everything that is specifically for the 4908 Maxx. It's just a simple way to make sure the parts all work together. 4908 driveshafts, carriers and turnbuckles will work nice with your rpm arms. Your old turnbuckles should work fine. Does your new ones have the tall ball joint? Scratch that about your old turnbuckles. They won't work with the new a arms
 
ya they are super baby small compared to the new ones.. will my old shafts work for know they seem to fit ok... so carrriers sweet going to get them know... how much are the 3.3 axles? a ball park guess i should say..
 
ok just thought i read some were they will work till they break due to the power of the 3.3 i just ordered..
 
The old style shafts will break fast. The reason you need both the carriers and the drive shafts is that the bearings are bigger. The new ones have bigger bearings on the inside and smaller ones on the out side.
 
sorry if i am not getting it will the old ones work at all? i will get the new style kind. i dont mined if they break just lhs does not have them right know . just want to get it toghether to drive in the street for a minute and internet oredering takes to long.
 
Sure, they'll be alright for break in and some moderate running. Get the new parts on ebay for sure. You'll pay twice as much at a lhs. Keep the slipper on the loose side and you'll be alright.
 
slipper is the nut on the spur gear correct??
runs awsome with longer arms jumped off curb and 3 shocks exploded damn.
 
You can pick up eight of the newer grey shocks for around $20, too. Sounds like you need 'em! They're a little stronger, allowing you to run a tad heavier oil. This will aid in overall handling.
 
Just bid on 3.3 big bore shocks, axles, and 3.3 bearings. SWEET!

O ya and the 3.3 steering kit. Damn I want to go out and bashit around!!
 
All those parts are good choices. Durability and performance. You'll learn a lot of knowledge about your rig that will serve you well in the future, too.
 
won all those items... 23.50 shipped on the axles, big bores on 52.00 shipped ebearings 3.99 shipped.......Good deal?? also bid on 3.3 steering assembly with savor and such, also a screw kit from 3.3 hex will be so much nicer than phillips!

o and a 3.3 brake kit.............damn wife is going to get pissed!! its addicting!
 
Just show her the retail prices of all that stuff. Make it look like you dug as deep as you could to save some money! Or explain that you could be in the bar...
 
Damn 3.3 kit does not work that would have been sweet it's to wide. So I sanded the calipers and the disc. All I need know is some rear turnbuckles every place I go to is out and when I went to amainhobbies in chico they said I had to go to there wearhouse and ya I could not fined it damn turnbuckles!
 
does anyone know where to buy a foc kit?? i can't fined one anywhere, also i am doing to paper trick to set my spur gears but they only last about 10 mins? any ideas?
 
Ebay and practice. Set your mesh as tight as you can while making sure there is a slight amount of play all the way around the spur. No spur is perfect. It's better to have a bit of a tight spot than a loose spot. Just get it as tight as you can but make sure it spins free..
 
How to set your Mesh

Hi, first do this, loosen the 4 bolts that use to tighten your engine down. Then grab your engine and slid it towards the clutch bell. After you do this, then snug up one screw do not tighten it down. You only need to snug it down enough, so the engine will still slide but will also stay in place if you are not touching it. I then want you to then cut some 1/2 inch wide by 3" long strips of printer paper. Insert a strip in between your Spur gear teeth and the Clutch bell teeth and use your finger to spin the spur gear until the paper feeds between the Clutch Bell and Spur Gear, do this until the paper is almost all the way in. You will need to move the engine in or out, till you get the spur gear to spin with just your finger smoothly, with the paper inserted between the clutch bell and the Spur Gear. Once you pull the paper out it should look like a accordion and have no tears. If you have tears in the paper, this means you are to tight and then you will need to repeat the steps and before you know it, you got it. If you are using a plastic spur gear,throw it way and buy a metal "Robinson Racing" Spur Gear, so you wont have to ever to this again. Now who knows about tuning I need some quick easy pointers, please help. I have a LRP .28 and a Traxxas 3.3 and I suck at tuning:third_place:. Merry Christmas everyone
 
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If your going with the paper method, make sure the strip of paper is long enough to rotate the spur all the way around. As far as the metal spur goes, spurs are plastic for a reason. They are there to keep the weak link outside of the tranny. That way if you crash or are on the throttle hard on big landings, the spur goes before the tranny internals. Metal spurs are not recommended unless you have an ultra beefed tranny(steel gears and such) and huge big block power. I've never had a problem with plastic spurs, even on a buddies maxx with a .26. Diffs will break before the spur.
 

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