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pro .15 overheating

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Mike c.

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I got a new pro .15 for my t-maxx and two tanks after break-in the thing overheated and never stop since. theres plenty of blue smoke but it still overheats. I have tried everything and the only thing I can think of is to get a msj cooling head and 10% top fuel rather the 20%
help!
 
The lower nitro content will not help with the overheating. The new cooling head might. Have you tried going rich on the needle settings?

BTW welcome back. Been a while since Elroy visited.
 
ya, its ether soo rich that it can't move or has lots of power and overheats and it doesn't overheat so much that it dies just it start popping when I slow down
 
You Could try Blue Thunder. Mayhem made a switch Like that or something. He said that The Top fuel made the engine run a little hotter than usual.

You could have an air leak too, those make wicked overheats.
When it overheats, is there smoke coming from the engine,ie: near the glow plug, off the heatsink, etc.???

[move]-Kellen[/move]
 
What other symptoms of overheating do you have with this?

Can you refresh my memory on your set-up? I know you were mostly stock once upon a time ago, but I believe you were getting some upgrades. Air filter? Fuel Filter? Pipe? Fuel brand and nitro content?
 
top fuel 20%, duratrax header ae pipe, stock airfliter, dinamite fuel fliter, and SilentHunterKellen I see no smoke anywhere besides the stinger on the pipe, could it be from the flywheel being lose? I'll check back later on what you guys think
 
well, I've tried everything the only thing I can think of is the flywheel being loose, could that make it overheat? I think I am gonna get a temp gun because the water thing is lying to me.:flaming:
 
GO get one...Radioshack has some cheap ones-20bucks. But if you want, I suggest go get a Rayvac or a MIP temp probe. Those are way cool, but I dont see the diffrence.

I dont think the flywheel being loose could be a problem. Unless, it broke the seal of the bearings with the crankshaft and the crankcase. Just tighten it up and it wont be loose...:doh:
[move]-Kellen[/move]
 
well, its not lose it just leaks a little bit of fuel, a drop here and there. ok I'll come back with a temp gun and tell you guys the temps
 
Mike the radio shack temp gun actually has a raytek pc board in it. You can get them for $39 regularly, and they often run them on sale for $29. Its a great tool to have. The TRX Pro 15 is known to run hot anyway, mine did before I replaced it with an OS. It would be nice to know though the exact temps you are running.
 
The TRX Pro 15 leaks like a sieve around the main bearing. It also tends to run hotter than most engines. Running it rich and using Blue Thunder 20% nitro always worked well with mine.

The only way a loose flywheel will cause the engine to overheat is by causing you to run it at WOT all the time just to get the shaft to grab the flywheel and make it do its job. By loose I mean loose on the shaft; as in the shaft can rotate without always spinning the flywheel.
 
Some people will say diffrent things.

IMO you shouldnt unless your going to a heigher nitro content. The piston and sleeve are the two things you are trying to break in, but diffrent fuel wont affect those two thing too much. You could just run the first tank idling and driving very slow, but after that just try the new fuel.

If you're switching to a heigher nitro content, I suggest breaking it in again-a little mini break in-because the engine might not be used to, or made to handle the %25, or %30 just yet. But then again, this is all my opinion. Some manufacturers will tell you to break it in again, some will tell you not to, and some will tell you GO BACK TO TOP FUEL(traxxas:hehe: ).

Oh yeah, congratulations on the switch to blue thunda. BT is well worth it, it runs cooler and performs better. Just ask mayhem. Only one thing about it, dont get it all over because it stains everything blue!
[move]-Kellen[/move]
 
If you change fuel brands and/or nitro percentage you need to reset you carb mixtures for that fuel. You don't have to go through another breakin.
 
ok thanks guys as soon as I an get my receiver i'll tell how it turns out
 
No full blown break in required, but a mini one couldn't hurt. You will need to retune for the new fuel, but a tank of break in like running will help get the engine used to the new fuel.

If you change the nitro content, you will need a little more agressive "break-in" process.
 
no offense, but what do you mean a more aggressive breakin? Breaking in is breaking in. The whole priciple is to mate the piston and sleeve and all other moving parts. Once this is done it's done. How would changing fuel have anything to do with that? The carb would definetly need to be reset, even with brand changes but the engine should already be mated. I always go through a carb setup (high and low end settings) with any change in fuel and even at times for weather changes. My Mugen Athlete and Losi GTX are stll running the same engine for several years now and both are still strong. I generally run a little on th erich side and sacrifice a bit of speed for engine life. I only replied because I don't see the logic in going through another breakin other than the needle settings.
 
No offense taken. When you change the nitro content of the fuel, you change the operating temperature characteristics of the engine. This can cause the internals some problems from the standpoint of how the various materials react to the new operating temperatures. If you just throw it in and go and do not allow the engine a chance to get used to the new stuff, you take a chance that the engine might break. How exactly will be determined by the materials that make up the guts of your engine.

When I said more agressive, I meant a longer "break in" period. Instead of one tank to allow the engine to get used to the new fuel, you might want to run a couple of tanks in "break in" mode.

Everything else you said is accurate. Weather changes, particularly dramatic temperature and humidity changes, will in most cases require a change in needle settings. Heck even changes in location with respect to altitude will require needle tweaks for best performance. Changing fuel brands and/or nitro content will require a needle tweak or full retune depending on which route you take. But the initial break in is for the purpose of, as you put it, mating the piston and sleeve. It is also prepping the engine for its intended use with respect to allowing the internals to handle the temps and getting the rest of the internals working together. That is why getting up to a good operating temperature during break in is sooooo important.

Even after that intial break in any kind of thermal shock to the engine can lead to warped parts. That thermal shock can be from cooling down too rapidly or by getting a sudden change in operating temps from say a different nitro content.

The bottom line in all of this is to take care of your engine so it lasts longer. Can you just slap in the new fuel tweak the needles and then turn and burn? Sure. Is it the best thing for the engine? In most cases, NO. Do what you can afford and feel is right.

I can't remember who posted it and can't seem to track it down in a search of this site, but someone posted a great write up found in a mag about break-in processes and changing fuels. It was very thorough and a great read. I'll keep looking, and post it if I come across it...in the meantime, if someone else finds it post it here.

Found it.

http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/nitro_fuel.asp

Check about two thirds of the way down in the section titled " Can you change the amount of nitro in fuel without damaging the engine?" This guy is an engineer like me, only he is published and says it better.
 
Taking the article for what it states, I stand corrected. I read it and found it interesting, in that some things I never heard before. I can't say that I desagree because I have only ever used 20% Nitro but have tried several brands. I currently prefer the O'Donnell Racing Fuel in 20%. I do get more discharged unburned oil but I do get better performance and easier tunning than I have with other brands. Blue Thunder is my current 2nd choice.
 
I've never tried o'donnel. Our LHS doesn't stock it. Would you suggest it by order? Or is Odonnell just a little bit better? I wanna try new fuels.
[move]-Kellen[/move]
 
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