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Paint & mistakes

  • Thread starter Thread starter Zoomer
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Z

Zoomer

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anyone know how to remove paint from the body, without the body being eaten up? i tried the nitro engine cleaner (it says not to get on paint, but it did nothing) anyone have any better ideas?
 
I am using Pactra "Racing Finish" it says it is for Leaxan & Polycarbonate Model Car bodies.

ok can i do what it says for over spray, 1:1 RC Thinner to rubbing alcohol?
 
pactra is very difficult to remove. u are much better off in the future using Faskolor - its waterbased.

if it hasnt been sitting too long, it can be removed with a q-tip dipped in laquer thinner. this is the only thing that will really work. rubbing alchohol doesn't relaly work.

ATTENTION!!! If you are removing the paint from any place that is supposed to remain clear do not use this technique. the laquer thinner actually eats the lexan a little bit an scars the finish. u wont notice it after it has been repainted, but it will look horrible on a clear portion.

hope this helps. dont forget Faskolor - u will be much happier with the results
 
i think he has it on the outside of the body in overspray? silver? i think i saw it posted on a different forum.. here is a small idea i was not thinking when i read it.. some polish for fine jewlery, very little scuffing debrie in it test on scrap lexan 1st to see if it does scratch it or not.. will work like polish on real car and may remove the over spray spots..
 
lol i tried th laquer thiner, but yeah i foud out that it kinda scars the paint, so i got all paniky and was like AWWWW SH*T, and i was all mad, but then i painted over it, and it does not look to bad, but i am still going to have to make a whole nother one...
 
Originally posted by Nitroaddict

ATTENTION!!! If you are removing the paint from any place that is supposed to remain clear do not use this technique. the laquer thinner actually eats the lexan a little bit an scars the finish. u wont notice it after it has been repainted, but it will look horrible on a clear portion.
s

zoomer- dont you remember me typing this???
 
no no no, it screwed up the part that is not supposed to be clear, i repainted it, but i looks all cloudy now... funny looking ...... thanx though, i will remember this tip.
 
for future reference - dont use laquers - use parma faskolor. SO MUCH BETTER!
 
I guess thats debateable.....

I prefer Pactra over Faskolor any day of the week. Sticks like glue! Not to mention, the fumes hehehe

Seriously though, I think it would be a matter of personal preference here. I have shot both and will never look back. While water based paints are more forgiving, laquer based paints seem to not only stick better, but hold better. This is just my observation.

I know others, like yourself, who wont use anything but water based either. Again, personal preference.
 
we'll agree to disagree christian - you are right - it is a personal preference. i have many reasons i hate pactra - and i am sure u have many reasons u hate faskolor.
 
I used the Faskolor on my Hummer body. (I say that like I've painted more than one.) It came out great and takes abuse without cracking, peeling, chipping etc. But I DID take someone's recommendation and back the whole thing up with a couple coats of sealer. I can't remember who's recommendation it was.
 
well, i like the way the pactra covers, and how the paint flows, i still have yet to try faskolor, but i will try that one next, as of now, my lamborghini body is my Guinipig body now. I am just going to paint it till it is a solid piece of pain, j/k i am going to paint the outside of the body, so you cannot see the inside color, until that is i crash and it takes the paint off, then it will give it a ripped effect, it will be my basher body.....
 
zoomer - u will find that faskolor flows so much better out of the brush than laquer paint. and the colors are so much brighter! wow.
 
well i painted my NTC3 Toyota MR-s GT body Neon yellow & Neon red with Pactra, and backcoated them with indy white, damn that is bright on a summer day, it is cool, i sooo wanted this body to come out looking good, but i gues i got my hopes up too high, damn.................... well time to try faskolor (AIRBRUSH)
 
i also used pactra products for lots of bodies before i switched to parma. i thought the pactra paint was bright too, until.....
 
damn i painted over the body on the outside, and it looks good, i will post a pic when i am done, but is there a such thing as a clear coat for the paint?
 
I've used parma, pactrica and spaz stix.. i love spaz stix.. but the price sux, parma i have no chipping pealing issues like i have with oil based though, bu ti also backed it with il based paint so it was sealed, the paint is cheap if you shop around, clean up is cake, and making custon colors is easy due to buying 20$ worth of 2.50 each bottles of paint.

pactrica does have a few goodies to it, like gold metalflake, candy blue, red, purpal.. and of corse i use their silver, white, black to back stuff with costs less than other things i can get local, but thats how i do custom colored tinted windows..

i even built up candy green one day spaz stix and pactrica paints for a parma fire truck body i did.. with golf metal flake.. so i say learn them all.. play with them all, each will assist the other in some manner if your creative ehough..
 
i really like the metallic blue and the indy silver, the silver has those great shiny flakes, and the blue tooo they are reall brilliant
 
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