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OH HELL!!!..uh oh... air filter popped off

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wannarunem

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  1. Bashing
I ran my savage for about 5 min and when i pulled in for a quick pit i noticed that the air filter had popped off the carb!. I could see some small pieces of grass stuck around the inside of the carb. What do i need to do? I'm not freaked out cuz i am going to upgrade the s-25 to a more potent motor soon, but i dont want a fried motor on my hands. I was running on grass that i had just mowed yesterday. I'm not really that concered about dirt getting in there..just the grass.

Do i need to take it all apart or is there an easier way of knowing if its damaged by taking off the manifold and seeing whats in the outlet side of the motor?
 
At this point I would take the carb off and clean it for sure, also check when the carb is out for grass on the crank. I might also go as far to pull apart the piston and sleeve assembly and check for scratches.
 
yeah, thats somewhere along the lines that i was thinking. I will pull the crab and go from there. Maybe i can get the carb off without taking the mill out of the truck.
Thanks
 
to be really sure you should take everything out of the engine and flush it a few times with Den. alcohal. I've had that happen a few times to me, once to my sirio .18 and TWICE to one of my xtm 24.7's. all times i found small peices of grass/dirt inside that i didnt see looking thru the carb hole, and all times i was able to clean the engine out and got good performance out of the engine afterwards.

BTW now i use small automotive hose clamps to hold my filters onto the carb..works great you dont even have to tighten it much.
 
alkyula said:
BTW now i use small automotive hose clamps to hold my filters onto the carb..works great you dont even have to tighten it much.

Great idea, i will do the same.

I got the carb off and i can see grass on the inside of the crankshaft. So I'm going to take it apart.

Do I need to be extra carefull when taking off the roto start on the mill to keep gears from flying everywhere or is it sealed on the back side?
 
Thanks Rolex...I gotta go to work soon and i will continue tearing the mill down tomorrow.
 
I would take the engine out of the truck. Easiser on you in the long run.
 
i got time to work on my mill to continue the tear down, but evidently HPI used RED lock-tite on the four screws that hold the back plate to the casing!!!! I can't budge em. I dont think i can apply any heat to the screws to loosen them without risking damage to the backplate.

What now??????
 
Did you strip them? If so, take a dremel and cut a line in them to use a standard (blade) screwdriver to take them out. Then replace them with something better.
 
olds97_lss said:
Did you strip them? If so, take a dremel and cut a line in them to use a standard (blade) screwdriver to take them out. Then replace them with something better.

No they arent stripped..but i did strip one of my allen wrenches trying to get one out. I switced to a strong allen wrench and it fits snug. I can put a ton of torque on the wrench and it still wont break over. I can't beleive HPI used red on those. i can seethem using.....green or blue...but not RED

Should i call HPI... Or keep hacking at the screws?
 
heat the screws. what are you really gonna damage? an oring maybe, that can be replaced at a hardware store or you can just use sealant.
 
I just applyied heat with a high temp soldering gun. Got it hot enough to get the screw warm without melting the backplate....still can't budge em
 
Sounds like your a wuss... (joke).

I don't know what to tell you. By applying more force, a few things might happen. Strip the head, break the wrench, break the screw or the screw comes out as it should. As it currently sits, you have an engine that will be destroyed by running it. All you can do is put as much torque on those screws as you can. In a pinch, I hold the wrench with visegrips to get a buttload of leverage.

I use losi wrenches that have an insert in the handle that I put into my 12 volt drill. The drill has a clutch on it. Sometimes I set the clutch a little tighter than normal so it acts a little like a hammer drill. That helps to get stubborn screws out as well. (normally only my engine mount 4mm-5mm bolts though)

In the end, if your completely afraid your going to break it, either order a new backplate, then just drill the heads off the bolts and use the new backplate or send it to HPI or call them to see if you can send it. I think you would be money ahead to try to get the screws out by useing excess force. But you may want to have a backplate on hand anyway in case you bust off a screw head.

There isn't much else you can do. If you apply heat and it doesn't help, you will melt your starter housing and still have a stuck screw.
 
olds97_lss said:
Sounds like your a wuss... (joke).


LOL!! nahhhh i eat my wheaties!!!

i just flushed themotor out as much as i could. HPI got real sloppy with the RED locktite!!! its all over the back plate and inside the hex heads. I broke 3 allen wenches trying to back those suckers out. I removed the cooling head and the sleeve looks ok. Just gonna flush it out and hope for the best.
 
Since you were on grass, you will be fine with what you have done so far. HPI did that with the locktite because the backplate screws on the first year savages came loose like crazy. If you heat the case with a heat gun to 200 F or more they should come out fairly easy. (you should have a heat gun anyway for breaking in engines, and you can get them now for $20+ at Home depot) I just used a heat gun 2 days ago to take apart an old OS plane engine.

I drive on dirt and I ruined 2 engines from loosing the filter. One engine actually made a grinding noise and locked up - it inhaled a rock the size of a pea. The best filter is the OS one, $35 but better than killing an engine.
 
Yeah i tried the heat gun also..i got it blistering. These bastards are concreted in. Never seen no poop like this


olds97_lss said:
Good luck. I hope you don't break your one way at some point. Then you will HAVE to take it apart.

yeah, I've thought about that.


Thanks all
 
Get a backplate on order just in case, so you can drill the heads off the stupid screws and replace the backplate without much downtime. It can't be much more than $10. I don't know the engine though...
 
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