Oh boy... which kit to build first?

[ferrebee88]

I ended up with the Vanquish H10-Optic kit and an Axial SCX10 Pro. I also have:
HW Fusion Pro 2300kv
MKS HBL550 servo
SSD 1.9 Assassin beadlocks
Jconcepts tusks(4.75") in green
CI dual foams with soft outer

I really want to build the Optic, but I feel like the electronics and tires in have are better suited for the SCX10 Pro.

 

[ferrebee88]

I'm thinking of getting these wheels for the Optic when I'm not longer broke.

 

[CertifiedMike]

I don't know a ton about crawlers so... Is the "pro" kit of similar quality to the Vaquish kit? The Vanquish kits seem to be real, real nice!
Cool trucks, whichever is first!

 

[ferrebee88]

I don't know a ton about crawlers so... Is the "pro" kit of similar quality to the Vaquish kit? The Vanquish kits seem to be real, real nice!
Cool trucks, whichever is first!

The SCX10 pro is in a similar category but with straight axles. I chose it over the Vanquish because of the selectable overdrive feature.

 

[CertifiedMike]

The SCX10 pro is in a similar category but with straight axles. I chose it over the Vanquish because of the selectable overdrive feature.

I'd love to see them BOTH done so we can get your thoughts and comparisons then!
If I find THE crawler for me, I think I'd buy one to try. This sort of info is GOLD for a noob like me!
Happy building!!!

 

[MVRCA]

Interesting in that I see them completely different machines. Build the Pro as light as you can, and it will crawl very well. Don't be afraid to put some weight in the Optic; it's a trail truck and is at home bouncing around the rocks and such. With the massive plastic cage, plastic parts, and weight distribution, it will never be a good crawler when compared to things like the Pro. I'd run a Castle sensored Slate motor with Copperhead ESC in the Optic. Super versatile motor that will give you both speed up top and crawling down slow. That Fusion 2300 will get hot at speed, and the ESC is going to eat all of that motor heat. I'd also see if I could get a small 4s battery in the optic and run a 1900 kv on the Castle. It will have tons of power and run cooler, especially if you plan to rip around with that thing.

Finally, stuff some narrow 2.2's on that optic and stretch out some 1.9" tires. It would look slick.

 

[ferrebee88]

Interesting in that I see them completely different machines. Build the Pro as light as you can, and it will crawl very well. Don't be afraid to put some weight in the Optic; it's a trail truck and is at home bouncing around the rocks and such. With the massive plastic cage, plastic parts, and weight distribution, it will never be a good crawler when compared to things like the Pro. I'd run a Castle sensored Slate motor with Copperhead ESC in the Optic. Super versatile motor that will give you both speed up top and crawling down slow. That Fusion 2300 will get hot at speed, and the ESC is going to eat all of that motor heat. I'd also see if I could get a small 4s battery in the optic and run a 1900 kv on the Castle. It will have tons of power and run cooler, especially if you plan to rip around with that thing.

Finally, stuff some narrow 2.2's on that optic and stretch out some 1.9" tires. It would look slick.

You have way more experience than I do! I just piddle around with this stuff and do much more building than actually running.

That copperhead/slate is what I had in mind for the Optic. I like being able to switch between crawler/rock racer mode with the auxiliary wire. I have one in my TRX4 sport and it is great.

I plan on making the SCX10 pro a straight crawler and the Optic a good all-around trail rig.

As for the 10Pro, I have some carbon rails on the way, but other than that it's just what I have in the pictures.

 

[ferrebee88]

@MVRCA
I got the brass rings to add some weight down low in the front of the 10Pro. Am I on the right track with that?

 

[MVRCA]

There are two things to keep in mind when setting up a crawler:

1. Weight distribution

2. Total weight

Most people obsess on the first element and ignore the second. This is why their crawlers cannot pull really steep lines. Total weight over powers traction at some point, regardless of where it resides.

Here is an example of achieving both. Look at the weight distribution, then look at the total weight. Not only is it balanced for crawling, but it is light. This is why I scratch my head when I see a crawler with a big battery. It makes no sense. Large batteries are one of the worst things you can do to your crawler.

Brass rings are fine in wheels, in that it's not sprung weight. It being up front benefits weight distribution, but it also adds to total weight. You will be better off with weighted knuckles. That said, you should get a scale at some point so you can see what the changes are actually resulting on the crawler.

When you add weight, getting it below centerline of axle is always best. That brass ring is 50% above and 50% below. It will help your distribution, but only make marginal changes to your CG.

Final note, if you do get a scale, always weight as "ready to run", with body clips and all. Every gram matters.

 

[MVRCA]

Watch this video and notice a few things:

1. That rock is very steep, pushing past 60 degrees in some spots. Most crawlers won't touch that in the real world ( crawling boards don't count ).

2. Truck slips very little on the ascent; more than enough traction. But there is a clue here.

3. See the slight shimmer and shake of the truck, like tiny vibrations? This is because it is so light that the entire truck reacts when the lugs slip. When I see that on other crawlers, I can tell the trucks are very light. That's why this thing walks up walls. Stuffing 5 lbs of brass on a crawler will actually hinder it's steep performance. The weight will quickly overtake the trucks ability to "stick" to the rock.

 

[WickedFog]

Watch this video and notice a few things:

1. That rock is very steep, pushing past 60 degrees in some spots. Most crawlers won't touch that in the real world ( crawling boards don't count ).

2. Truck slips very little on the ascent; more than enough traction. But there is a clue here.

3. See the slight shimmer and shake of the truck, like tiny vibrations? This is because it is so light that the entire truck reacts when the lugs slip. When I see that on other crawlers, I can tell the trucks are very light. That's why this thing walks up walls. Stuffing 5 lbs of brass on a crawler will actually hinder it's steep performance. The weight will quickly overtake the trucks ability to "stick" to the rock.

I have actually tested this on a 16th scaler. You reach a point where the weight of the rig overcomes the traction of the tires. And the steeper the angle, the less weight is pushing the tires towards the surface, and on the flip side, that weight is now pulling your truck downward towards gravity, trying to slide the truck down the hill. It was just like tuning shocks and steering, but tuning weight and center of gravity instead. And it was kinda fun and educational. I reached a 57° angle climbing a flat surface with a towel on it. It was also a pretty terrible WPL semi.

 

[ferrebee88]

Interesting in that I see them completely different machines. Build the Pro as light as you can, and it will crawl very well. Don't be afraid to put some weight in the Optic; it's a trail truck and is at home bouncing around the rocks and such. With the massive plastic cage, plastic parts, and weight distribution, it will never be a good crawler when compared to things like the Pro. I'd run a Castle sensored Slate motor with Copperhead ESC in the Optic. Super versatile motor that will give you both speed up top and crawling down slow. That Fusion 2300 will get hot at speed, and the ESC is going to eat all of that motor heat. I'd also see if I could get a small 4s battery in the optic and run a 1900 kv on the Castle. It will have tons of power and run cooler, especially if you plan to rip around with that thing.

Finally, stuff some narrow 2.2's on that optic and stretch out some 1.9" tires. It would look slick.

I actually think I am going to try the fusion 2300kv in the Optic and try it on 2s,3s. It's my first fusion so I want to see how it performs. I'm not going to be doing high speed runs, just basic Trailing and light crawling.

 

[Doom!]

I actually think I am going to try the fusion 2300kv in the Optic and try it on 2s,3s. It's my first fusion so I want to see how it performs. I'm not going to be doing high speed runs, just basic Trailing and light crawling.

I'll be surprised if you don't love it.

 

[MVRCA]

I actually think I am going to try the fusion 2300kv in the Optic and try it on 2s,3s. It's my first fusion so I want to see how it performs. I'm not going to be doing high speed runs, just basic Trailing and light crawling.

That said, I think it will be an excellent motor setup for you. We have a few here and like them very much for our trail trucks. Running one in a Vanquish VRD carbon kit and really like it. It's our cruise around trail truck, and it feels well suited for the task at hand. You will find that Vanquish trucks need very few aftermarket support parts to perform. You're gonna like that truck.