No brakes!!!

[JESSE G]

I have been slowly working out the bugs on my Rc10 recently and now I'm on to the next item on my list and hopefully the last for at least a couple runs lol. I have tried to get my Brakes to work but not having much luck, I have tried adjusting the tension nut tighter and it doesn't seem to make much differance at all. I took a closer inspection of the disk brake and it looks worn it has a smooth groove cut into it so I'm assuming its toast?

I was curious what would be a good replacement one for it? I'm not going to be racing or anything like that for now, just some back yard bashing but I want it to stop. and right now it takes like a 100 ft to stopl when applied at top speed. Does the stock ones work decent when they are new? I bought it used on ebay and they have been fried since I got it. The guy before me had it set up so the brakes where dragging all the time. So I dont know how well they ever worked new. I know there are many different kinds out there but have no idea which material is better than the next. Also should I replace the brake shoe? Man I'm still such a :n00bie:

Thanks

Jesse

 

[HeartBreak]

New brake discs are about $2.50 or so. I'd have to look it up, but they can't be much more than that. I'd say it's a safe bet that it's shot. Also, you might want to check the bottom end of the brake lever (down near the chassis) and see if it's loose/no clip. If that clip is missing, your brakes will be gone. I'm in the process of modding mine with a small nut and a thread cutter (those circular clips SUCK).

Edit; when set correctly, the brakes should drag a hair at idle, yet when you nail the brakes, it should come to a stop fairly quickly (within, say, 10-15 feet).

Oh, I forgot to mention; the hex that the brake disc rides on wears out too, if it's plastic. If it's plastic (black), it'd be a good idea to spend the $7.50 or so, and get the factory team aluminum replacement part. I run it, and haven't had a worn out "brake nut" since.

 

[Tweak]

Through all I have done to my RC10GT the brakes have held up wondorously. I bought a stock replacement from towerhobbies about four months ago, but have yet to even open it. I would think it is OK to go stock for this one, but remember- Get a failsafe to accompany the brake system.

If the guy before you had them dragging all the time then they are probably a little thinner and have lost most of the "texture' thats applied to them. Being as the brake system is relatively simple- Just to pieces of metal clamp down on a ring of...whatever that crap is made of. Maybe try removing the disc and seeing if the breaks bind before installing the new one might avoid problems later on. let us know how it goes.

 

[JESSE G]

ok thanks Heartbreak, and I looked them up and they are really cheap with Rcboys. Everything is tight on the brake lever I just check it . I diddnt know the breaks should drag a little either thanks for the tip.

 

[.21Rc10GT]

Maybe look into a Carbon Fiber brake disc.. They have a little more stopping power than stock.. also take some fine sandpaper and sand the brake pads to scuff em up a little...

 

[HeartBreak]

You definately want them to drag just a hair at neutral. Just enough to help slow the truck slightly, but not alot. It helps it handle much more like an electric that way.

Definately look into the metal brake hub. It's cheap, and that'll never wear out. Also, make sure the pin that goes thru the slipper shaft, that the brake hex rides on is still in there.

I'm gonna sit down and see if I have a small enough thread cutter, and mod the brake arm. I'll post pics if it works.

 

[bustedgears]

You definately want them to drag just a hair at neutral. Just enough to help slow the truck slightly, but not alot. It helps it handle much more like an electric that way.

That's what I do with mine. It makes a world of difference on the track.

 

[JESSE G]

Maybe look into a Carbon Fiber brake disc.. They have a little more stopping power than stock.. also take some fine sandpaper and sand the brake pads to scuff em up a little...

I thought about the carbon fiber, but for now I just went with the stock one money it pretty tight right now and From Rcboys it was under 5 bucks shipped can't beat that . I will also make sure to scuff up the pads too thanks for the tip.

 

[Tarant]

Roofing tar

yeah roofing tar.
I had some and my brakes were really worn so i scuffed up the pad and i took the disk and was trying to think of a way to make it work better so i took a little roofing tar and smeard it on both sides of the disk
(a little, like a small tear drop size and it is easier to use when it is warm) and the pad and cleaned up any large amounts.
And DAMN this thing was set, brakes worked great and the best part is when you race and you dont want the brakes to engage as much the tar heats up a bit and is not as stickey but when bashing and the brakes are cool it will lock up the tires.

I know their may be issues with stuff getting stuck in the tar. but if done correctly their is very little tar anyway and I have ran this for about 3 runs and every thing still works great

 

[JESSE G]

hmm intresting! Let me know how it holds up after you have ran it more I'm really curious about it .

 

[Tarant]

Okay Jesse G. I have ran my truck some more today and i am still happy. The tar locks up the tires and the brakes hold up very well. with little to no fading.

I did have a small problem I redid the taring and found that if you put just a little bit of tar on the disk it works better, the problem i had was the brakes would lock up and get stuck. but after i did that it would lock up abit so, i splashed a bit of fuel on them and they were just fine. they worked and the fuel kept them from getting stuck and by the time the fuel had worn off they were not sticking.

(if you dont have any tar I have 2 gllons of it and I could send you some just PM me your addy)