Nitro won't pull fuel in

[omarinbenz23]

Nitro won't pull fuel in-Clutch bell smoking

Hello,
I'm pretty new to R/C cars and this is my first and only car I have at the moment just using it as a starter to learn from. I have a redcat racing tornado s30. It has a sh .18 motor in it. I had ran the car about a year ago and my engine mounts weren't tight. So as I was driving I stripped my spur gear and my clutch is a little discolored. I had replaced the spur gear and left it away (never tried starting the car up when replaced). I forgot to put after run oil. When I tried to start it the car wouldn't Prime by covering the exhaust but it would Prime by covering the carb. It would also Prime when I would blow into the pressure pipe that goes into the exhaust. When I would put fuel into the carb directly the car would instant Rev up and shut down as it seems the engine wasn't pulling fuel in. I pulled the carb out and sprayed it with wd40. I replaced the exhaust gasket, re tightened the coupler. I replaced the fuel lines and checked for an air leak in the fuel tank. I also checked to see if my exhaust pipe was cracked or had a leak and that turned out to not have a leak either. I'm stuck. Car still won't pull fuel. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

When you say you got it to prime, do you mean you saw fuel dripping into the venturi, or just in the line going to the carb? If the latter, my guess is the fuel you left in the thing got all gooey inside the tiny passages within the carb.

I'd remove the carb, disassemble it and thoroughly clean with brake cleaner, Q-tips and compressed air.

 

[omarinbenz23]

I saw fuel going into the line that goes into the carb. You may be right with the fuel left inside the carb. I heard not to use brake cleaner as it will mess up the rubber piece on the LSN? Or would that be carb cleaner? Thanks

 

[omarinbenz23]

Just put everything back together...primed it. IT WORKED!!! thanks! now let's just hope it starts

 

[omarinbenz23]

Car seems to not be running right

So I ended up putting everything back together. I primed my engine and it worked. I made sure my carb was 1mm gap and then put my car on a brick. I took a heat gun to the engine to warm it up as it is 32 °F outside. I started the car and the wheels started to spin kind of fast. I saw blue smoke coming out of the exhaust but the car wasn't really revving up too high. I then gave it gas on the transmitter and it would produce even bigger blue color smoke from the exhaust. I then saw the clutch started to smoke so i pinched the fuel line and counted out about 3 seconds. The car maybe ran only for about a minute and it ate up almost a 1/4 of the 75cc tank. My clutch already had a blue color to it before it engaging on this start.:\

 

[Nitrotrout]

With ambient temps that low you should wrap some aluminum foil, a rag or sock around the cooling fins to retain engine heat. A body with no ventilation cut outs will also help retain heat. Try to keep your engine at 200-215 degrees. Don't go any higher as you would in summer, you'll damage your engine. If you don't have a temp gun a drop of water on the cooling head around the glow plug area should slowly sizzle for approximately 6 to 8 seconds when the engine temp is 200°F to 210°F.
If the water sizzles for only a few seconds, then it is likely the
engine temp is over 220°F and needs to cool down. If the water takes a long time or does not evaporate at all, then the engine is too cool.

If you suspect your clutch is fried you'll need to remove the engine, remove the clutch bell and inspect the springs, shoes, and bearings.

 

[Cornholio]

Try to keep your engine at 200-215 degrees. Don't go any higher as you would in summer, you'll damage your engine.

You're way off trout, most nitro engines can go up to 270 degrees without any problems. My old .15 would run like a champ at 265 degrees.

 

[SMaxxin]

Check out the sticky's at the top of the nitro section, you will find some great info that will help you get your nitro going.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

 

[Nitrotrout]

You're way off trout, most nitro engines can go up to 270 degrees without any problems. My old .15 would run like a champ at 265 degrees.

Those are summer time temps bruddah. Try leaning for temps like that in 32 degree weather and your engine is not long for this world.
The rule of thumb is cold weather- rich mixture, hot weather-lean mixture

But don't take my word for it, try it for yourself.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

You're way off trout, most nitro engines can go up to 270 degrees without any problems.

And some higher than that. ;-)

Omar...I'm not understanding the issue you are having[/COLOR]. When you say your clutch is blue, can you elaborate..or show a pic? Also, just because your gap is 1mm does not mean the shoes won't engage. Start it, lower the idle stop until you have a nice, reliable idle (with the wheels on the ground). Turn off engine, and try to start it again. If it won't start...gap too small. Just do not use your trim to set the gap.

You are doing right with the heat gun. No need to wrap the head in foil/sock. etc.

With respect to engine temps go by what you see/hear. It never hurts to know the temp...but I would venture 99% of the temp guns out there are inaccurate. Use it as a baseline. i.e. If the engine runs well at 210, that is what you shoot for. If it runs well at 290...same thing. Just know the most important thing is the engine has to fully heat up until you begin tuning it (unless you cannot keep it running(. The engine will let you know if it's not in the right range. Once you get that down...then you begin optimizing it.

 

[hamz9561]

I have to agree with NitroTrout on this. Cooler air is denser and carries more oxygen. Add more fuel.

Always tune to performance not temp. Temp is a guideline to help you get the best performance.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

I agree. Just remember rich is rich and lean is lean, regardless of the weather. If it runs great at at "270" then that's all you need to know. You'll find all sorts of hypothesis on maintaining/tuning engines. Just get to know your engine--no two are the same.

 

[omarinbenz23]

Thanks for all the replies

Thank you for all the help everyone. I don't have a temp gun so I would have to try the water method. I want to try and make a video of it running so everybody can kind of see what's going on as I may not be explaining it right ? I was told to run rich but I still don't see why it burned a 1/4 tank in about a minute. I never set the car on the ground because I saw the smoke and then haven't really messed with the car too much.
Here are some pictures of the car.

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

Always tune to performance not temp. Temp is a guideline to help you get the best performance.

This. If your tune is right, so will be your temperatures.

Omarin, you should see a trail of blue smoke for the first 10-20 feet of acceleration, but it really shouldn't be visible after that. Engine should not bog or cut out, regardless of how you apply throttle. It's difficult to explain in words the difference in sound and performance between fuel loading and starving out, except to say that if it won't accelerate properly and you see no smoke, it's too lean, whereas if you see lots of smoke, it's too rich.

Watch some youtube vids on tuning. That'll give you a better idea of what you're looking/listening for.

 

[Toby White21]

have you checked nothing is blocked, the thingy into the carburettor or the exhaust pipe?