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Newb in need of serious help!!!

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Vicalma03

RC Newbie
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Just got a t-maxx 3.3 and I'm having a couple problems. When I turn it on, the motor just reves up to the max rpm. The motor seems to be engaged to the tranny at all times. Once the motor is on the wheels start to spin. I've driven it for a max of 30 seconds and it chews up the spur gear every time. I have already replaced the spur and forward primary gear. Is there a idle gear? Do they make any metal/steel gears for these trannys? What all should I replace? Is there and Ideal screw? Does anybody sell complete transmission kits? I'm very new to this and I have no Idea what to get. Any info will be very helpfull.. Thanks in advance...

Victor
 
ok either you may need to tighted the nut on the slipper and to stop eating your slipper you have to ajust your gear mesh. i have to go to bed now lol so i will give you more info tommorow if no one else does
 
Cool! thanks for the info. I'll keep searching thru the forums too..
 
Robinson Racing makes steel transmission gears and spur gears, its $120 for the tranny gears and about $40 for the spur. i would recommend checking your engine for air leaks and start tuning it from factory settings, 4 turns out(screw the screw all the way in and come out 4 complete turns) on the HSN and flush on the inner ring on the LSN.
 
Robinson Racing makes steel transmission gears and spur gears, its $120 for the tranny gears and about $40 for the spur. i would recommend checking your engine for air leaks and start tuning it from factory settings, 4 turns out(screw the screw all the way in and come out 4 complete turns) on the HSN and flush on the inner ring on the LSN.

Thanks that helped out a ton!! Everything is working out great except for the spur gear. I go thru them every 2 min or so LOL!! I guess I'm not adjusting the mesh properly. Any advice on that will be helpfull
 
i dont know that motor very well but check the small bolts that connect the carb body to the motor, if one fell out it creates an air source that consistantly will fuel the carb, but like i said, i dont really know of that motor or have had any experience with it
 
for mesh align them sort of close and run a strip of paper thru the gears it should leave good creases if it doesn't its to loose if it rips then its to tight
 
You guys have been very helpful! I took the truck to the lhs and I bought a new gas tank, a 55t steel spur gear, new bearings and a hardened steel clutch bell. I set the mesh and its running good. I think I'm running a little rich cause it kind of bogs out of the whole. Whats an easy way of tunning?
 
get a temp gun run between 220 and 240 if it gets up to 260 shut it down
High speed needle (one on top bigger) turn it VERY slight tight for faster lose for slower
you want to see a slight stream of smoke at all times when you get on it. Always run a tank of fuel through it before you tune and tune on a full tank, as the fuel runs lower the engine will run leaner you may have to loosen the high speed needle about an 1/8 turn out.
 
You need to do this in the proper order. The FIRST thing you need to do is slow down your engine. Turn your transmitter trim down to zero, then look into the carb neck and adjust the idle screw with the brakes on till it's 1-2 mm open. That's the starting point, and it will only need a slight adjustment once it's running. As long as your engine is running at a high RPM, the clutch shoes will stay engaged, and your wheels will turn.

Putting in a steel spur will not help if you aren't setting the mesh properly. It's normal to be able to run many gallons on one stock plastic spur.
When you install a spur, you need to put a strip of paper between the spur and the pinion. Then squeeze them together while you lock down the engine. That will give you a tight mesh without the teeth getting eaten. If you changed the CB, you might have the wrong size.
 
You need to do this in the proper order. The FIRST thing you need to do is slow down your engine. Turn your transmitter trim down to zero, then look into the carb neck and adjust the idle screw with the brakes on till it's 1-2 mm open. That's the starting point, and it will only need a slight adjustment once it's running. As long as your engine is running at a high RPM, the clutch shoes will stay engaged, and your wheels will turn.

Putting in a steel spur will not help if you aren't setting the mesh properly. It's normal to be able to run many gallons on one stock plastic spur.
When you install a spur, you need to put a strip of paper between the spur and the pinion. Then squeeze them together while you lock down the engine. That will give you a tight mesh without the teeth getting eaten. If you changed the CB, you might have the wrong size.

Thanks for the help. I was looking around the motor and found most of the motor mount screws were loose. I tried to tighten them but seems the threads were stripped. Once I get that taken care of I'll follow your instructions and we'll see what happens. Thanks again.
 
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