new UK savage21 owner with Q?

[nitrojunkie]

HI I'm new to forums new to nitro models, have had electrics in past.

My savage Rocks!

but many questions.

Have been buzzing round my garden 'pissing off my neighbours' its flippin LOUD.

is there anyway to make it quiter but not slower. Thought of putting 4" of sillicone hose on end of exhaust sending exhaust out back and hoping that soft tissues of silicone would dampen noise.


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Id' like to here more about reverse (have read forum said it make it slower) have also read some one else made it faster?


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I've run it in tuned it to run rich I think. But not much smoke is this norm. I'm running on Blue Thunder 20% (yes smurf juice)

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yes more.. which nuts supposedly work loose?

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will send in some flying pics of my savage. hey by the way you guys in the US are lucky these things cost £400 thats $636. OUCH!

got mine sent over from US from www.usahobbystore.com
is there anywhere cheaper $383

Beacuse of time deffence I'm only online untill 10am EST 4pm UK time

PLease send me loads
your new.... NITRO JUNKIE

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

1. GS Racing makes an exhaust deflector that will not only throw the fuel farther away from the chassis, but, will quiet it down a LITTLE. Welcome to the world of 'Big Blocks' with Big noise. Some guys are switch to the RB Concepts 081 pipe and getting better performance as well as a slightly quieter ride.

2. Reverse - Well, as it stands, the reverse module is a pain to install and seems to have had a negative impact on performance. This could be compared to the TMaxx. A lot of TMaxx owners remove reverse and go 'Forward Only' to gain that SNAP off the line. I guess its a matter of whether or not you 'have to have it'. I'm going to stay without reverse for instant hook-up.

3. I havent been getting TONS of smoke either. This seems to be the norm. The best way to monitor performance is with a temp gauge. VenomRacing makes a VERY cost effective on-board gauge and is quality. However, you might want to buy the Radio Shack temp gun for 50$ American. Its a point and shoot one and can easily be used on multiple vehicles. Best way to make sure either one of them is on the mark is to check it against a pot of boiling water. Go with a temp gauge and put the guess work behind you. 20% is perfect for this mill.

4. The set screw in the tranny is a MUST for being LocTite down. There are a handful of others as well. go to www.hpiracing.com , click on forum, go to Savage .21 FAQ's, then look under the Chassis forum. They will have pics of all the screws that need to be Thread locked along with a good article and pics on how to lock down the tranny set screw WITHOUT having to take the tranny apart.

On a final note, get a fuel filter, switch the direction the top shock screw is in behind the fuel tank, run fuel line from the overflow nipple to the outside of the chassis, get a failsafe and remove that return spring (it will overpower the servo quickly), when $ allows you, replace the steering servo.

Aside from that, this thing is a beast and too much fun to drive!

Loving it!

Oh, you might also want to up the shock oil to something around a 35 wt. It comes with 10 wt. stock. Too light in my opinion. Dont go too heavy in oil as it will make it bouncy.

-Chris

 

[nitrojunkie]

:cheerful: thats great will look into all of that stuff.

ur! :stupid: whats a fail safe and where can i see one buy one etc...

as for the exhaust I stuck a 2.5" piece of silicone pipe on the end of my exhaust no noticable slow down but slight noise reduction and 1000 times easier to stop engine, just squeeze the pipe. Recormend it.

oh! why reverse the screw on top shock mount.

and havent tried yet but can the fuel tank be fliped around to feed fuel from the back not the front.

I also stuck a small bit of tube behind the brake servo arm to improve the brakes. Worked a treat. do not put too much tube there, allow for some slack but only a 2mm not 8mm that was there.

:cheerful: thanks for info

 

[Çh®i§tiªñ]

The top shock screw behind the tank has been known to bust the tank on HEAVY HEAVY impact. Quick easy switch and you are all good.

Be careful with the fuel line on the exhaust. The inner diameter is too small in my opinion and will create excessive backpressure. Thats why I go with an exhaust deflector. They are the right diameter and can also be used to stop the engine easily.

Tube behind the servo arm is another good point. Run with it!

www.venom-racing.com makes a very cost effective and quality failsafe. They are the same as the MPI and Futaba failsafes, and much less in cost. I honestly believe all 3 of these manufacturers are just putting their name on the same product. So go with the less expensive one, Venom Racing. XTM probably makes the cheapest failsafe around, but, I dont think its the same quality as the MPI or Venom. I have all 3 and prefer Venom.

Check with your local hobby shop and see what they can do for you in the failsafe department.

-Chris

 

[nitrojunkie]

hey ho! got a failsafe, good, but....

:cheerful: hey thanks Chris.

got a GWS failsafe mail order UK £9 = $14.

because the radio system is reversed I can only set my fail safe to Neutral or Gas not the brake.

If I swap the + and - wires around coming out of the Rx then switch myTx to norm not reverse I could then set the failsafe to apply brakes if required. Is this possible or already been done even?

Annnd its now totally OK to remove throttle return spring?

and another q? have you seen the hpi forum where a guy says to cut the servo saver spring to improve the brakes? would it work? seems odd, when I had a look it looked like it would produce less throttle...

-Vince