New to RC

[jlinsenbardt]

Morning everyone! I'm new here and just want to get pointed in the right direction. I bought a used 4909 off craigslist. Regretting it now because I could have had a brand new one for what i paid and have dumped into this thing so far. Here's what I've done so far:

Full strip-down and clean, sealed motor (fuel inlet is now leaking pretty badly)
Removed reverse servo
RDLogics aluminum a-arms all around
New stock shocks
new RCScrewz all around
other new plastics that were broken (battery box, bumper mounts, antenna tubes, etc)
Stripped chrome finish on wheels and dyed them black
Built a T-Maxx PVC workbench stand

Here's what I know i still need:

Fix fuel inlet leak (may have over-tightened)
New Spur Gear (what's best tooth count? isn't 58T stock? would it be better to get a RRP one-piece slipper with steel spur gear?)
Forward Only conversion-kit & new tranny case (mount screw holes are pretty stripped out)
New Fuel Line & Glow plugs
New Fuel 20% (not sure how old this bottle i have is)

Is there anything else that I need right away? The truck runs pretty well. Found out first hand what happens when the slipper clutch is too tight. Stripped the hell out of the spur gear. When i get some extra cash I'm going to be getting the RPM Rear A-arm conversion and also new axle carriers & bearings for the front. The stock ones are pretty worn in and there's quite a bit of play there. I also have to adjust the alignment on the front end, it's pretty bad.

have i missed anything? here are a few pics:

 

[primolx1]

just from the looks of ur ride u may need a air cleaner of some kind if you dont wanna destroy ur engine due to dusty conditions

 

[jlinsenbardt]

lol i have an air cleaner. I just have it off while i work on it.

 

[2revo1maxx]

You got a long way to go my friend, aluminum arms on plastic bulkheads is no good. You should get aluminum bulks and some better hinge pins. Also a pullstart and forward only would save half a pound, that's a good performance gain right there. Get a 5 cell rx battery and a power switch for your reciever too, your servos will work much better on 6 volts vs 4.8. Lastly a steel spur/slipper combo is a waste of money when you're running a 3.3. Just set the mesh right and watch out for those nasty upside-down-backword landings. 22/58 is the stock gearing.

Oh you probably need a carb too. Hate to say it, but a stock t-maxx is about 400$, double that and you'll have pretty nice maxx. I have one, it's on my profile. I need to update the pics but I'm about to paint a new body so gimmie a couple days.

 

[rgift27]

Built a T-Maxx PVC workbench stand

That looks like a great stand for your rigs...

 

[jlinsenbardt]

The stand was cake to build. Got the plans here:
http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/workstand/tm-workstand.asp

I've actually got the pull-start but i need to get her running right first. Anything I should be looking for in a new carb or just a stock replacement?

I'll soon be ditching the aluminum a-arms for RPM ones. What hinge pins should i be looking into? Also I need the aluminum rear bulkheads and the front ones could use replacing. What is a good brand? I hear integy is s**t. Wish RPM made bulkheads. :\

another quick (probably dumb) question ... the optidrive module ... is this only needed for reverse operation? or does it have any impact on forward operation?

 

[Bushwaker]

2revo1maxx How do you do this?
"Get a 5 cell rx battery and a power switch for your reciever too, your servos will work much better on 6 volts vs 4.8."

jlinsenbardt I have a spare carb if needed.

Also looks like you are running Byrons imo Great fuel I run a 30% on a 2.5 but my mechanic said he would run 33% but he didnt get any in on this shippment. I'll have to wait till he gets some in to try it out.

Whats GP's are you using I have had some luck running Dynamite plugs here in FL. But to each its own on GP's I will never waste anymore $$ on a Traxxas plug.

 

[2revo1maxx]

2revo1maxx How do you do this?
"Get a 5 cell rx battery and a power switch for your reciever too, your servos will work much better on 6 volts vs 4.8."

jlinsenbardt I have a spare carb if needed.

Also looks like you are running Byrons imo Great fuel I run a 30% on a 2.5 but my mechanic said he would run 33% but he didnt get any in on this shippment. I'll have to wait till he gets some in to try it out.

Whats GP's are you using I have had some luck running Dynamite plugs here in FL. But to each its own on GP's I will never waste anymore $$ on a Traxxas plug.

Use o'donnell # 77 medium plugs they rock. I used a revo power switch with a 5 cell flat pack. It takes a little thought to do it but I zip tied the switch to my shock tower. Then I wrapped the pack in electrical tape and zip tied it to my chassis where the stock batts are. You'll have to drill 2 holes in your chassis. Stick with 20% for a 3.3......easy tuning plenty of power.

The stand was cake to build. Got the plans here:
http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/workstand/tm-workstand.asp

I've actually got the pull-start but i need to get her running right first. Anything I should be looking for in a new carb or just a stock replacement?

I'll soon be ditching the aluminum a-arms for RPM ones. What hinge pins should i be looking into? Also I need the aluminum rear bulkheads and the front ones could use replacing. What is a good brand? I hear integy is s**t. Wish RPM made bulkheads. :\

another quick (probably dumb) question ... the optidrive module ... is this only needed for reverse operation? or does it have any impact on forward operation?

Not sure about bulks, I have integy....LOL but the pins are lunsford.

 

[jlinsenbardt]

I've haven't used Integy, I've just read alot of bad reviews. Good reviews also, guess it's hit or miss. Anyways I'll stick with what I have till the parts break. The battery seems like a smart upgrade though and of course the carb and pull-start. Any chance i can salvage my current carb? I dont really think anything is wrong with it other than the fuel inlet. I could replace the plastic inlet with a brass one. Also, with the stock gearing I should have no problem getting the front end off the ground right? Once it's tuned correctly of course.....

and yes i'm running byron's 20% right now. It's just that I got the fuel from the guy who sold me the rig so i'm not sure how old it is. I'm thinking new fuel, fuel line, and GP would be smart before I try and get it tuned in properly.

 

[2revo1maxx]

I've haven't used Integy, I've just read alot of bad reviews. Good reviews also, guess it's hit or miss. Anyways I'll stick with what I have till the parts break. The battery seems like a smart upgrade though and of course the carb and pull-start. Any chance i can salvage my current carb? I dont really think anything is wrong with it other than the fuel inlet. I could replace the plastic inlet with a brass one. Also, with the stock gearing I should have no problem getting the front end off the ground right? Once it's tuned correctly of course.....

and yes i'm running byron's 20% right now. It's just that I got the fuel from the guy who sold me the rig so i'm not sure how old it is. I'm thinking new fuel, fuel line, and GP would be smart before I try and get it tuned in properly.

If the threads for the inlet are good, then just get a new inlet. Integy does have a few good items. I won't buy anymore but the bulks are quite beefy. If I have a problem with them at all it'll be stripped threads. I would look around. The thing with aluminum is that you want to build a good strong 'core' so to speak and then use rpm arms, carriers etc. Leave some planned weak links in the mix too, like the bumper mount, body mount etc. The battery and switch are a must on the maxx, you won't be sorry. Also the stock gears should pull wheelies just fine.....most of the time. It's ok to just upgrade as you break stuff, this hobby doesn't have to break you to be fun

 

[jlinsenbardt]

thx for all the help, headed to the LHS (30 miles away) today to get her fixed up.