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New TC 4 questions

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Revo Rancher

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Picked up a NIB TC 4 yesterday. I plan to use the LRP Sphere ESC, the NEO-one brushless motor, JR 310 Rx, and at least 3300 batts, possibly 3700. This is my first elec R/C, so I need help to get up to speed.

Do I need a seperate Rx batt pack?

What brand of batts do racers prefer for the motor? In 3300? in 3700?

Do I need anything else such as wiring, terminals?

I did buy the new ICE charger/discharger as well. Am I missing any other items? I bought a Stratus 3.0 body for it already, too.
 
don't need Rx Pack the ESC feeds the RX from the main batt...I've heard guy spreffer the 3300 to the higher current packs I just don't remember the reason.....n-ICE charger...I got one too...very easy to use once you go through it like 100 times...read the book and set up your models now so you're not scratching your head when you need it.....once you have a model set it's really easy to use....You'll need Dean's connectors cause w/ that setup you will cook a tamiya connector......
 
Perfect, Eric. That is some of the kind of advice I need. Any particular brand and model of 3300's your buddies like to use?
 
those green and orange ones...I think they're trinity GPMs...I ahve a pack in my yokomo I'll look when I get home.....be sure to get the info off th estickers so you know what to charge it at.....I forgot what mine is set to......but the slower you charge it the longer the car will run.....I charge my pack for the TCs at like .75 amp the night before and set the top off delay timer to the maximum and let it top off at .1A...I got about 12 mins out of a pack once doing that w/ a stock motor.....and it hauled ass like never before....get the temp sensor if you want to charge it overnight...I hear you can do some bad damage to your packs if they stay heated all night.....
 
get GP3300's from any reputable battery matcher. you might have a problem fitting GP3700's in because they are bigger in size. some matchers that are reputable are surge batteries, promatch, pole positions, and smc. you may also need a 20-30 amp discharger with cutoff switch.

optionals:
battery equalizing tray
good digital servo

it is important to maintain your batteries. they are the most expensive part of the kit. once they go bad so does the power of your car. on my race packs i tray them first before charging them to make sure the cells all have an equal charge. i charge my batteries at 6amps. i have been getting good results and runtimes during my races.

i don't use any connectors when attaching my motor or batteries to the esc. i hard-wire everything.
 
What wire/gauge and solder do you recommend for hard wiring?
 
Deans and GS both make a great silicone wire used in RCs. Any LHS will have it. Some people call it noodle wire. You should get all the wire you need with your ESC to get you going. A good 70/30 rosin core solder is what everyone is using. It is helpful to have a GOOD 40 wt soldering iron with a fat broad tip.
 
FE:

Do you mean 40 watt or 400 watt soldering iron? I have a pencil soldering iron (wattage unknown until I find it) and one of those trigger style with changeable tips. That one is MIA as well, but it must be more than 40 watts.

My favorite R/C store has Deans and GS wire. (Rob's R/C, 714-372-3777) (shameless plug, folks)
 
i use 12 awg noodle wire. a good soldering iron is definitely needed in electrics. i personally think electrics are fun. i am starting to enjoy it more than nitro touring because the cleanup is easier. electric is also more about chassis setup and gearing as opposed to "who has the strongest motor". the playing field is more level and the better driver wins.
 
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