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New Savage owner, any write-ups around?

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BigNutt

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Just bought a Savage and was wondering if there are any write-ups on fixing some of the problems that happen with them? I've heard of the fuel leaning out problem and the dogbones problem. Is there a write-up page or anything like that specifically for the Savage 21?

Maybe there should be?
 
Other then doing a search there is no write-ups. There is a one of thing someone has done to address the leaning out. Do a search for it here and you'll find what they did to avoid the problem. With reference to the dog bones. I beleive HPI had addressed this problem by beefing up the dog bones so that they are a little stronger. But not sure if they made them strong enough to handle some of the aftermarket engines. I had found a Machanist that has a tracer for his lathe so he made me 4 new dog bones out of some #8 bolts. So I don't have to worry about them ever breaking again. Also the shock tower screw that is located by the fuel tank ensure to turn it around so that the threaded end is away from the tank. This has been known to bunch a hole into the fuel tank from a good wipe out.
 
There are numerous write-ups on the Savage. The problem is that they are in the form of threads on this site, and they address each issue seperately. I'll try and tag a few of them for you...

1. Dogbones - the "old" stock dogbones had a designe flaw that made them prone to shearing near the ends. This issue has been addressed by HPI and anyone with the flawed bones are entitled to a free upgrade to the new version. Contact HPI for the info. How do you know if you have the old ones? Look near the end of the bone shaft. You will see that it maintains diameter constant until a point near each end of the shaft, and then it takes a very sharp decrease in diameter. This step off is the shear point.

2. The fuel systems of most RCs are self leaning. There is very little you can do to counter this. There are a bunch of imaginative ideas out there that have worked, but the best one I have seen to date is to tune the engine while it has only half a tank of fuel in the tank. This will make the engine run slightly rich on a full tank, just right near the middle of the tank and slightly lean near empty. This means that performance will actually increase as the tank empties.

3. The shocks tend to be a weak point. The stock shocks are of good design, but the exposed nature of the shocks and the long shafts tend to make them open targets for bent shafts. The only solutions I am aware of are: A.) Get a upgraded set, B.) Get the New Era upper a-arm that takes T-Maxx shocks, C.) Keep a spare set of stockers in your kit as a replacement set should you need them.

4. The fuel tank/shock tower massacre. The screw on the rear tower tends to puncture the tank on really hard landings or lid down landings. The solution, as mentioned above, is to put the head of the screw holding the shocks to the tower closest to the tank with the nut being closest to the rear of the truck. You can also glue some closed cell foam to the upper back portion of the tank to provide a little impact protection.

5. The tanks primer is a point of leakage as it gets older. It can turn into an airleak that robs the engine of power and fuel down the road. You can remove the primer (several ideas on this one) or replace the tank with a primerless tank (only a couple of options here).

6. The engine is a performer if broken in properly and tuned well, but it is still underpowered. Many people upgrade the engine as one of the first performance hop ups to the Savage. The engines of choice right now appear to be the Picco .26 Outlaw and the Ofna Hyper 21 8-Port (I run the Hyper).

7. HPI addressed an issue they had internal to the tranny, but it does not hurt to verify that it is done. There is a set screw (grub screw) that has a tendancy to back out. The solution (and HPI does this for you on the latest runs of Savages) is to open the tranny and apply loctite to the screw.

From this point, the rest of the issues are owner preferences. You can upgrade the steering servo to a high torque for better performance. If you upgrade the engine, the stock HPI rims will not handle the torque and you will end up replacing them when the wheel hexes destroy the socket they rest in on the rim. There are numerous other upgrades you can make. I'll let others give you some ideas, but believe me the truck is great and the upgrades are only limited by your wallet size.

Enjoy and Welcome to RCNT.
 
Thanks Alot!

I don't even have my Savage yet, but it will be here Monday. I can't wait. I have one more question, where is a good place to get a starter kit? What all do I need to get my truck running out of the box, besides fuel?

Thanks
 
You will need batteries for the radio and receiver. You should get a fuel filter and perhaps a better air filter. You will want to get some spare glo-plugs as the break in of the engine will probably kill the glo-plug that comes with it.

If you need recommendations on the above items, I can provide them. But just about any brand battery will work. HPI makes an upgraded air filter, and most fuel filters will work just fine. Read the engine's manual to find out what kind of plug it recommends or ask around here, and someone will provide an answer. I would recommend the Fox Gold series long plugs, but that is my preference.

As for starter kits, there is a rotostart kit for the stock engine. You can find the details at the HPI website.

www.hpiracing.com

From there, search any online hobbyshop and you will find it.

Happy motoring...
 
Do they make rechargable battery packs for radios? I was just wondering since they use sooo many. I'm going to my LHS tommorow to get everything I need unless the prices are high.

So I need:

-fuel filter
-better air filter (what brand?)
-glo-plugs
-fuel
 
Yes, they make rechargeable batteries. They tend to be a bit more pricey than dry cells, but the recharge factor makes them worth it. Make sure you get a decent charger to go with them.

-Fuel filter...Dubro makes one, Dynamite makes one
-Air Filter...HPI's high performance basket air filter (looks like a MotorSaver) or the Motor Saver. Make sure you get the one for the .21 engine. Both filters look alike and perform the same
-Glo-Plugs...I recommend Fox Gold Series, but there are a number of decent ones out there. McCoy and OS are also high quality plugs
-Fuel...I recommend Blue Thunder 20%. Good fuel and tends to run cooler than most.

I almost forgot. If you do not already own one, you will need a glo-ignitor. They have both rechargeable and dry cell types, but they all provide the same service. Choose one you like.
 
I'd suggest that if you go with NiCD or NiMH batteries then it is nice to also change the power switch to the type that has a seperate charging lead and plug. You just cut a small notch in the radio box cover to allow the wire to pass without being pinched. You can then recharge the batteries without ever taking the cover off. I'd also suggest that if you use the plastic battery holder that you tape the batteries in place so they cannot lose contact. Other nice to have items are a failsafe to prevent runaways, a Motor Saver air filter with outter foam cover, and a body that helps protect the engine head. I replaced the body with the '73 Bronco body and have not had the head damaged since then. Another area that makes a big difference is to change the shok oil. I'd suggest at least 30W in the front an 35W to 40W in the rear. An inline fuel filter is good insurance of clean fuel to the engine.
****Most important is break the engine in correctly*****
Hope you enjoy the new truck.
 
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