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New OS .18 CVRX, gearing, chewed clutch bell

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circusfreak

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Hey guys,
I have the original Maxx .15 truck that I recently upgraded to the OS .18 CVRX engine. The engine starts great and seems to have good top end. I am running the Robinson steel spur which I think is the same as the stock at 72T. Last night I chewed up the stock clutch bell which is a 20T. I am running O'Donnell 20% nitro fuel. I am about 10 tanks into this engine so far.
Couple of questions for you:
- I was expecting more low end out of this engine...maybe it needs more tuning, but it doesn't even come close to wanting to wheelie at all. Should it be more punchy?
- Since I went from the TRX .15 to the OS .18, should I drop a couple teeth when I get a new clutch bell? Maybe go with an 18T?
- Dude at the hobby store said I should have a little looser mesh since I have the steel spur, is this true? Maybe I should double up the "paper set" mesh?
- If I chewed up the clutch bell really bad (about 1/2 the teeth are bent over), does that mean that I have the slipper too tight, or need the smaller tooth clutch bell? Or just need a hardened bell?

Thanks for the info folks!
Rob
 
from what i heard i think whenever you run a steel spur gear you need a hardened clutch bell. don't know for sure, i run plastic.
 
The stock bell will not work with a steel spur. As suggested above, you need a hardened bell or it will chew it up like your seeing.

If your running the original pipe with the cv-r, then you are probably not seeing the engines full potential. The 18 should pull a wheelie with stock gearing (72/20) I would think. Also, 10 tanks probably isn't enough to get the engine fully seated, so there should be more power building over the next 10 tanks.
 
The stock bell will not work with a steel spur. As suggested above, you need a hardened bell or it will chew it up like your seeing.

If your running the original pipe with the cv-r, then you are probably not seeing the engines full potential. The 18 should pull a wheelie with stock gearing (72/20) I would think. Also, 10 tanks probably isn't enough to get the engine fully seated, so there should be more power building over the next 10 tanks.


The guy at the hobby shop said the same thing, and suggested I go back to the plastic spur. Said it shouldn't strip out unless the mesh is not right. I did that, so we'll see what happens.

I am still running the stock 72/20 gearing, and I am not seeing even close to a wheelie at start. Actually, the low end is very sluggish right now, so I think I just need to work out the tuning and play with the slipper a bit.

BTW, the pipe I installed on there is a dynamite tuned aluminum pipe, I don't know jack about pipes, so I have no idea if that is a good match or not. What pipe you would recommend for the .18 CVRX to get better power? This is the pipe I have on there now, is this a good fit?
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN6613B

But I have to say at least that the engine has been very reliable so far. No stalls or difficult starts in like 10-12 tanks yet, and I would have been lucky to have the TRX .15 run for 1 full tank without stalling 2-3 times.

Thanks for all the great info guys.
 
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I would go to a 18t bell for better snap off the line I really dont think it will weelie though
I run 18 72 with a ported .15 and it will just pull one wheel off on acceleration but that is due to torque. I WOULD REALLY STAY AWAY from a steel spur as it puts the tranny as the next breaking point.
 
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