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New MGT engine, wont keep idleing???

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stavman

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Ok got it running but can't seem to keep it running. Messed with idle just short of wheels turning, backed off the 1/8 turn to lean it out but still wont stay running for too long. Even changed glow plug, thought it helped but then started same thing. Dosent seem to be any bubbles in line.

Any hints.

Should I just idle it in the first few tanks or kind slow throttle up and down to break it in, once I can keep it running that is

Thanks

Oh and I'm just breaking it in also

oh and I'm breaking it in, forgot that part

Stav

Oh and I'm just breaking it in, forgot that part

Stav
 
Its either running too lean or too rich. Get it running and keep it going with your radio, and open the low speed needle 1/8 turn at a time intill it is blubbery rich at idle. Then lean it until it just runs clean. Run it for 2-3 minutes at a time, then stop it and let it cool completely down. Do that 5-6 times, then you can begin driving it.
 
Breaking in engines vary from one manufacturer to another. It's important that you follow those as closely as possible. Break-in's can be the biggest PITA, we all know this. Be patient with the break-in and you'll get through it. Don't take short cuts and don't assume all break-ins are the same. All the problems experienced with your break-in will greatly benefit you later with an engine that will run long and hard.
 
Those engines are notorious for vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks make tuning impossible.

You should pull the engine out of the truck, pull the carb off, clean it and the crankcase with some brake cleaner, and silicone the carb back into the crank case. It doesn't take much, just a thin film of RTV, and I spread it around the neck with a Q Tip.

Also, for some moronic reason, TTR came up with a bright idea of trying to oil the outer main bearing by drilling a hole into the intake plenum between the crank and the carb. The result in a MAJOR VACUUM LEAK. Every one of those engines I work on gets the main bearing pulled, and that oiling hole plugged with a dab of silicone.

Don't use el cheapo sealant either.... I use Clear RTV from Napa. Never a problem.

Once you get it all back together, you will notice the lsn is extremely rich. Just warm the engine, and keep leaning the lsn untill the engine idles properly. The idle speed may need adjusted also.

This mod alone is almost like going from a stock engine to a ported one.
 
IMO I would finish braking it in, 5 - 10 tanks or so then worry about if it will idle... Mine wouldn't aide during break in very well... After about 7-8 tanks, it will idle now basically till i shut it off or hold the brake for a while... :2cents:
 
Where exactly do you mean this hole is at??? Sorry I missed that part the first time I read your message... I would take it the black RTV would work just as well?? Thanks
 
Um, rsx, this thread is almost a year old. The engine he was breaking in is probably worn out by now.
 
LMAO I missed that completely... Thanks for making me look smart though!! Anyone know where the "intake plenum" is anyway?? Thanks again
 

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