hi guys, i'm sorry i haven't posted anything for a while but as it turns out i found out i have a brain aneurysm, surgery scheduled for march 8th so pray for me and my family. anyway i ordered a new motor for my savage 4.6 today, after reading your posts on RCNITRO TALK, i decided to go with the LRP Z.28 SPEC 3. so i was wondering if it will be a noticable improvement over the stock mill. also i upgraded to a hpi polished pipe recently and was wondering if this will be sufficent for the new engine or should i go with something else? thanks kdogg
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New engine for savage x!
- Thread starter kdogg1966
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Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
Not really a good pipe for that mill, or any other for that matter. Olds97SS is having good luck with his Hotbodies pipe. The LST pipes like the HT and HS are good choices as well but you have to find a header to make it work.
SavageShaun
RCTalk Racer
well i dont know you personally but I'm hoping all goes well with your surgery and as far as the LRP the difference between that and the stock motor is like night and day lol the LRP has alot more power in my opinion.....
- Thread starter
- #4
hey, thanks for the info and kind words, which pipe and header would be the best to run with the new mill? i just put the hpi polished pipe on, but if another one is more suited to the LRP Z.28, then i would rather go ahead and change it before i break it in. thanks kdogg
Well, I found that the large ID stinger on the HPI pipe didn't make enough back pressure for the LRP. That and the HPI header... just caused the LRP to not run as well as the one in my aftershock.
I have a 1" extended savage, so I can use pretty much any header without worrying about hitting the shock. For you though, I think you have to stick with the HPI one that has that sharp bend in it.
You can use a "one piece" pipe with a "two piece" header if you don't care how it looks. I do. But I don't care how it looks.
I think the pipe I'm running is an old hot bodies pipe, but I'm not 100% sure. I do know that it's thinner than my Losi HT pipe (the body of the pipe) and the stinger is smaller than that on the HPI polished pipe.
I've tried all but one of these with the LRP on the savage:
In that photo, they are as follows (top to bottom):
HPI Polished
Losi LST1 pipe
Hot Bodies savage pipe (I think)
Losi HT LST2 pipe
Duratrax Warhead pipe
The second from the top is the one I didn't try. I did try the others and the one that ran the best was the "hot bodies" one.
The LST2 HT pipe is the one I run on my aftershock with the aftershock header. It's also the one I'm currently running on the savage with my XTM24.7 (winter engine). You can see by the heavy nylon re-enforced coupler that you can run a "one piece pipe" with a "two piece" header. Just doesn't look so good. I don't know why the HT pipe didn't run nearly as well on the savage. My only thought is that it's the header as the one on the aftershock is probably longer and the bends are definitely softer. But running the losi HT pipe on my aftershock vs the HPI polished pipe was a night and day difference. Tune was better, temps dropped, a bobble at 1/3-2/3 throttle was almost non-existent. But HT pipe on the savage with the HPI header ran better than the HPI polished, but not as good as it ran on my aftershock.
You can see the stinger size better here, the LST1 pipe's stinger is very similar to the LST2 HT pipe. I would have shown the LST2 stinger, but didn't feel like sacrificing a ziptie to take off the extender.
This is the header I run on the savage:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLFL2&P=7
The bends are still pretty harsh, but I noticed the tune was much more smooth than when I ran the stock header. I may pick up a more gently curved header like this to try to see if I can make it even better:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTSE7&P=7
But, I probably won't...
I have a 1" extended savage, so I can use pretty much any header without worrying about hitting the shock. For you though, I think you have to stick with the HPI one that has that sharp bend in it.
You can use a "one piece" pipe with a "two piece" header if you don't care how it looks. I do. But I don't care how it looks.
I think the pipe I'm running is an old hot bodies pipe, but I'm not 100% sure. I do know that it's thinner than my Losi HT pipe (the body of the pipe) and the stinger is smaller than that on the HPI polished pipe.
I've tried all but one of these with the LRP on the savage:
In that photo, they are as follows (top to bottom):
HPI Polished
Losi LST1 pipe
Hot Bodies savage pipe (I think)
Losi HT LST2 pipe
Duratrax Warhead pipe
The second from the top is the one I didn't try. I did try the others and the one that ran the best was the "hot bodies" one.
The LST2 HT pipe is the one I run on my aftershock with the aftershock header. It's also the one I'm currently running on the savage with my XTM24.7 (winter engine). You can see by the heavy nylon re-enforced coupler that you can run a "one piece pipe" with a "two piece" header. Just doesn't look so good. I don't know why the HT pipe didn't run nearly as well on the savage. My only thought is that it's the header as the one on the aftershock is probably longer and the bends are definitely softer. But running the losi HT pipe on my aftershock vs the HPI polished pipe was a night and day difference. Tune was better, temps dropped, a bobble at 1/3-2/3 throttle was almost non-existent. But HT pipe on the savage with the HPI header ran better than the HPI polished, but not as good as it ran on my aftershock.
You can see the stinger size better here, the LST1 pipe's stinger is very similar to the LST2 HT pipe. I would have shown the LST2 stinger, but didn't feel like sacrificing a ziptie to take off the extender.
This is the header I run on the savage:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLFL2&P=7
The bends are still pretty harsh, but I noticed the tune was much more smooth than when I ran the stock header. I may pick up a more gently curved header like this to try to see if I can make it even better:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTSE7&P=7
But, I probably won't...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #6
hey, thanks alot for the info and pics. this helps alot. kdogg. p.s. after i get the new mill broke in i'll let you know what kind of difference i'm feeling between the stock savage 4.6, and the new lrp z.28, I WISH SPRING WOULD HURRY AND GET HERE!
Scrogg
Hardcore RCTalk User
Hope all goes well with your surgery, I'll def. be thinking about you. Olds gave some excellent ideas, my LRP really liked the top end pipes like the JP-2. It was ballistic on my Muggy.
Have you considered giving one of Extreme RC Mod's stainless pipes a try? It would be the last pipe you ever would need for the Savage. It will work on every BB engine with the stock header. They are loud though, it sounds like a miny dirtbike on crack.
Have you considered giving one of Extreme RC Mod's stainless pipes a try? It would be the last pipe you ever would need for the Savage. It will work on every BB engine with the stock header. They are loud though, it sounds like a miny dirtbike on crack.
Metalhead Matt
RCTalk VIP
Best of luck to you with the surgery kdogg.
- Thread starter
- #9
hi, thanks everyone for the kind words, i'll let ya know how the surgery goes. i buy alot of stuff from tower hobbies, the pipe i've been looking at is the ofna JP3, but how hard is it to get to fit on the right side of my savage? kdogg
- Thread starter
- #12
hi guys, my new mill for the savage is in so my L.H.S will be putting it in tomorrow along with a new hot bodies pipe, as soon as i get it broken in i'll let you guys know what kind of difference i'm getting over the stock mill. and thanks for all the great advice. kdogg
- Thread starter
- #13
IT'S IN!! hey just got the new motor put in my savage today, i was wondering if you guys could give some advice on breaking it in. should i follow the manufacturers directions or do you guys have a different way for initial start, break in? thanks kdogg
everyone has a different opinion. I say flush it out with nitro before you do anything to clean out any metal particles that may be hiding and then use the manufacturer's recommended break in style. That way if there are any issues you can honestly say you used their method