new aftershock, less than a tank and broke it already

[danger dan]

well i just bought a mega baja yesterday, and got everything straight today, got some fuel and went on to break-in. ran into a problem where the brakes would grab so i used an allen key and adjusted it, fixed.

so i was out driving back and forth in my front yard, no bashing just taking it easy, varying the speeds. i run out of gas and pull it in to let it cool and to get it ready to run another tank and i noticed one of my front driveshafts hanging there. it snapped near the wheel.

i dont know how the hell this happened but oh well, ill have to order another set.

my question is this, what are the weak points in this car, ill go ahead and order the parts so i wont have anymore downtime like this, thanks guys, besides this the trucks awsome.

 

[Rolex]

Sometimes you just get a defective part. I'm sure they'll replace it at no charge if you call and explain it to them. Sometimes they want to examine the broken part to see if something needs to be corrected in the manufacturing, but it's well worth it to send it back.

 

[olds97_lss]

Well... it's quite a list to make it truly bashable (not unlike many other RTR's).

I have the aftershock.

You can buy just the chrome part of the axle, 2 for $10: B3502
Get a couple sets. I've broken two so far. I've had mine since april and have run about 8 gallons through the truck.

The list (in general order of importance):
LST2 rear spur cover (DO NOT GET RPM HERE, USELESS AND RUBS!)
RPM arms (requires 4 sets) Use in conjunction with Lunsford turnbuckles. The ones RPM includes broke on me before I got through my first tank. Very frustrating.
AL wheel hubs
Lunsford turnbuckles or at least get a few spare stock sets of turnbuckles

Granted, I wouldn't say this is all a necessity, but it will make your life much less of a hassle down the line.

Eventually, you can upgrade to LST1 or LST2 aluminum bodied shocks and an LST2 two speed mechanism. These can be found on ebay much cheaper than at a store. I got mine on ebay.

Then the brakes will really start to suck. I chose the more invasive approach and changed out the stock rotors for a carbon fiber rotor and installed a 170oz servo for t/b duties. Stops on a dime all day long and rolls effortlessly when in neutral.

You might want to look into getting a new era 3 point roll bar and a dynamite engine brace. Don't get other brands, they aren't built as well. Spend the $20 right the first time and get dynamite.

Well... I'm sure there are a few more odds and ends, but that's the bulk of what it takes to make an aftershock tough. The sad thing is, a good portion of that list is also required on the LST2. At least with the arms, turnbuckles and engine brace. The brakes also suck on the LST2 eventually. A couple buddies of mine have LST2's.

So, don't feel bad that you bought the cheaper of the two trucks. In the end, my aftershock was still cheaper than my buddies that started with an LST2. The LST2 has stuff that I didn't need (two tier transmission w/reverse, anodized diff cases, spektrum radio...)

 

[danger dan]

wow man, thanks a bunch for the info, really helped out.

I've noticed the brakes arent the best, but they do the job just as good as any other rtr.

i just ordered a set of 2 driveshafts, and a set of 2 stock turnbuckles. hope that will due for the time being, ill order more stuff as i go on.

got priority shipping, so i REALLY hope i get this by the weekend, i have sunday off work and would love to take it out to the park and bash it a bit.

one more question, is it ok to finish breaking it in with one of the front driveshafts removed? id like to get it all tuned up and broken in before i take it out on the weekend and bash it.

 

[olds97_lss]

I'd suggest taking out the drive shaft on the opposite side. Then the diff will spin, but it won't spin or jam up the axles or anything weird. Then when you continue breaking it in, keep in mind that it's only two wheel drive and it will rap up through the RPM's quicker and spin the tires easier. Hitting high RPM's on a new engine isn't a good idea. If your mildly careful, it shouldn't pose a problem.

 

[SMaxxin]

Olds has covered the necessary things but I have one more suggestion...Once the break in is done buy a new pipe! You won't believe the difference! It takes a few things to get it right but you will have a great truck in the end.

 

[danger dan]

I've heard a pipe does add alot of gain, someone said that they put an hpi savage ribbed pipe on and it did wonders? what do you guys reccomend.
the only other thing i didnt like too much was that it takes a bit of revving to get it moving. better clutch maybe?

tires suck too, there like big baloons haha, ill get new ones eventually

 

[SMaxxin]

I've heard a pipe does add alot of gain, someone said that they put an hpi savage ribbed pipe on and it did wonders? what do you guys reccomend.
the only other thing i didnt like too much was that it takes a bit of revving to get it moving. better clutch maybe?

tires suck too, there like big baloons haha, ill get new ones eventually

I have heard that the HPI pipes work great, thats what I would have used but I found a great deal on a Werks pipe/header and it also works great!

I use the clutch shoes and springs from a Savage and the difference is night and day.

As for tires I'm currently running max mashers, they are nice but with the LRP engine I'm getting a lot of tire spin. I'm trying to decide between Proline Badlands or Losi zombie max tires....decisions decisions LOL

 

[olds97_lss]

I run zombie maxx on t-maxx 2.5 rims. I love those tires. Hook up on just about any surface. A bit soft for concrete though. I run an old set of maxx chevrons when I run at skate parks.

I did forget to mention a pipe! I can't believe that. The stocker sucks.

All the ribbed pipe did was add noise to my M26. HPI's polished tuned savage pipe on the other hand added a lot of grunt to the engine. You can find them on ebay for around $20. I used the stock header.

Also, you might want to think about getting the LST2 fuel tank. It's larger.

Running smaller diameter tires will drop your top speed a bit. There's a trans mod you can do or you can get the "high speed" clutch bell that losi offers (+1 tooth on 1st/2nd). I have the bell and I did trans mod both since I run the LRP28 as well. I'm going to have a hard time buying any other engine after running 4 gallons through that hog... It's a great engine so far.

I have a vid or two on youtube that I can post up later if you want to see it run. Although, I don't think I had the larger bell then, but I did have the trans mod.

 

[danger dan]

ah ok, well i suppose ill add a pipe and the savage clutch soon as well.

where exactly should i get the savage clutch parts from? and what exactly do i need, is it a direct replacement?

thanks for being so helpful guys, should have my driveshafts in by the weekend so i can get it fully broken in and hopefully have some fun with it. maybe not break something this time.

 

[SMaxxin]

Here are the shoes and springs, it's a direct replacement.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFXU7&P=ML

 

[1 Bad STi]

good info here. thanks fellas

 

[lilhd]

Yes, the truck is ridiculously fun. I've had one for about 3moths now and it's great. I on the other hand have been bashing my truck, so in regards to your arms, you may want to up grad to RPM, they are fantastic! Best of luck