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Needing input from experiences revo moders

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A

acerblue

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So I have made a few post with answerrs that have not really helped and more every day I have new questions after seeing pictures of others revos and reading.

Where can I find detailed instructions on removing the blue engine head?

Where can I find detailed instructions on removing the easy start engine and installing a pull start along with exact requirements of what's needed?

Where can I find detailed instructions on removing the duel servo steering and installing a single servo along with what all is required?

What servos are the best? What's the super duty spring people keep telling me about and what's it's purpose?

Is it hard to remove reverse and will it effect preformance? How do I do it?

What's the difference in wings and wing mounts?

Is there a screw replacement pack? I'm losing and stripping certain screws.

How do I know if my engine is tuned right? I see a lot of white smoke out the exhaust when I open up the throttle.

Here is a list of things I've bought so far.

Red aluminum bara for the front.

Lunsfors Titanium toe links for front and back

RPM a arms and axles for front and back which remove the need for red aluminum bars in back.

Proline Extended body mounts

RPM front and rear chrome bumpers

Crimefighter racing tires
and some nice sturdy wheels

Motorsaver air filter

New half shafts for front and rear

I want to get a 3.3 ready pull start but not sure what one is best and works

There is so much more but I'm on a iPhone at work so.

I need a vet to take me under their wing and help me learn to way to do all this. Sadly there is no hobbyshops in my town so my only option is the net.
 
Before you start anything, get yourself a set of decent hex drivers to work with. This set is good and cheap to get started with.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/149306/n/Dynamite-Traxxas-Startup-Tool-Set



Where can I find detailed instructions on removing the blue engine head?
Look at the exploded view in your manual. It is a simple process of removing the screws securing it to the block. Be sure to not loose or damage the thin shim under the cooling head if there is one there. When putting it back on, be sure to use loctite and tighten it using the star pattern.

Where can I find detailed instructions on removing the easy start engine and installing a pull start along with exact requirements of what's needed?
The process is just a matter of removing what you don't need and installing the pull-start which is a direct bolt on. 3 screws hold the optidrive unit to the backplate and you will see where the wiring has to be removed. The PITA screw to get to is the ground wire. You will need a ball driver to get to it or remove the cooling head.

Where can I find detailed instructions on removing the duel servo steering and installing a single servo along with what all is required?
See your other thread.

What servos are the best? What's the super duty spring people keep telling me about and what's it's purpose?
See your other thread.

Is it hard to remove reverse and will it effect preformance? How do I do it?
Easy as long as you are mechanically inclinded. The instructions come with the conversion kit by Traxxas.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGG6&P=ML

There is significant weight savings since you loose all the reverse crap out of the tranny and the optidrive unit. You also loose the stuttery start off the line that is attributed from having reverse.

What's the difference in wings and wing mounts?
Mostly personal preference.
Here are a couple of options.
http://www.teknorc.com/product_info.php?products_id=48&osCsid=6bf5108a53a79e971f6b74b3ac6e7cd6
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_17&products_id=182
The Tekno mount is not as pretty as the JConcepts, but is a lot stronger.

Is there a screw replacement pack? I'm losing and stripping certain screws.
Here are a couple of conversion kits. Stay away from the stainless steel kits.
http://www.hexcrews.com/traxxas_1.aspx
http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.sc?productId=6&categoryId=61

How do I know if my engine is tuned right? I see a lot of white smoke out the exhaust when I open up the throttle.
Read this.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832


Once you start working on your Revo you will quickly find out that it is not a big deal. As long as you stay organized and have the exploded view in front of you, you will quickly become a pro at taking thinks apart and putting them back together.

You can either post or PM me any questions you may have regarding the Revo. I will do my best to help you or point you in the right direction.

Found this how-to vid on you tube.

Forward Only Conversion
 
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That has to be one of the best answers to a question i have ever seen. That is why this is the best site on the net, alot of good info for everyone
 
Also Steve Slayden has a step by step tutorial on Traxxas's website. I followed his advice and was rewarded with a very quick, lightweight DURABLE Revo 3.3.
 
i am having trouble finding the steve slayden you mentioned (scrogg). do you have the link to it at all?
 
The only thing I did different than Slayden was I bought some Titanium pillow balls off E-Bay for 20 bucks. They were indestructable. The Traxxas steel and aluminum ones snap too easy.
 
Robmod provided a wealth of information, however I have to disagree with a portion of one piece of his advice. It's my understanding that you do not need to use threadlock (Loctite) when you reinstall the screws holding the head in place. I've torn apart many engines and I've yet to see one that came out of the factory with threadlock on these specific screws.
It's my understanding that properly installed and torqued down that the head and engine case become a solid unit. They then vibrate at the same frequency. As such these screws are not prone to come loose. Through the heat cycle etc, these screws pretty much become locked in place. I've broken/bent many screwdrivers trying to tear apart engines like Novarossi's or RB's which use a slotted versus a hex head. Thank goodness for tools with lifetime warranties.
On the other hand, I have seen cases where people have used threadlock (especially in excess) on these screws and it's not a pretty picture when you try and open these up.
 
Scrogg said:
The only thing I did different than Slayden was I bought some Titanium pillow balls off E-Bay for 20 bucks. They were indestructable. The Traxxas steel and aluminum ones snap too easy.
Click to expand...

Yo dude whaz up??? Listen to this man he knows his *ss from a hole in the ground :)
 
TGL said:
Robmod provided a wealth of information, however I have to disagree with a portion of one piece of his advice. It's my understanding that you do not need to use threadlock (Loctite) when you reinstall the screws holding the head in place. I've torn apart many engines and I've yet to see one that came out of the factory with threadlock on these specific screws.
It's my understanding that properly installed and torqued down that the head and engine case become a solid unit. They then vibrate at the same frequency. As such these screws are not prone to come loose. Through the heat cycle etc, these screws pretty much become locked in place. I've broken/bent many screwdrivers trying to tear apart engines like Novarossi's or RB's which use a slotted versus a hex head. Thank goodness for tools with lifetime warranties.
On the other hand, I have seen cases where people have used threadlock (especially in excess) on these screws and it's not a pretty picture when you try and open these up.
Click to expand...

1. Why wouldn't you use thread lock? All the theory in the world doesn't mean that a simple preventative maintenance step is not common sense.
2. Using removable threadlock goes a long ways towards... Let me know if you need the rest.
Robmob's name's in blue for a reason.
 
Metalhead Matt said:
1. Why wouldn't you use thread lock? All the theory in the world doesn't mean that a simple preventative maintenance step is not common sense.
2. Using removable threadlock goes a long ways towards... Let me know if you need the rest.
Robmob's name's in blue for a reason.
Click to expand...

Never, Never, Never use any kind of thread lock on the cooling head. As the head heats up when you start running your RC, it expands and so do the screws that hold it in place. This in a way locks those screws in place. I've been running RC for many years and have, with the exception of once, never used a threadlock and have never had any loose screw problems. The one and only time I did use threadlock, listening to a friends advice, (yes the removable BLUE threadlock) was the last. When it came time to remove the head I got three out of the five screw out, with some trouble, and the other two were LOCKED. I never was able to remove them. I broke three Allen wrenches before I finally gave up. That was a throw away engine. It's fine and a good idea anywhere else but not on the cooling head. The reason why is this. (Info from a certified small engine mechanic) The heat from the head kinda bakes the locktite unlike how it acts when used any place else where there is little to no heat. If you do use it good luck. Maybe you'll be able to remove your screws. Maybe not, why take the chance when it's not necessary if you tighten the head down properly. By the way Hitec servos are the way to go.
 
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