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Need to drastically lower temps

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ChiefGeek

ChiefGeek

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Fayetteville, NC
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Obviously the high needle was the first to be played with and I just can't richen it to the point where it runs reliably without over heat. It's vapor locking in 5-10 minutes of run time. When I bought it, it came with 30% nitro fuel, so I'm headed down to the hobby shop after work to get some 20% and a few different glow plugs to test out and then to Northern Tool to get a temp gun. My truck has an associated pro 28 engine in it, anyone able to recommend fuel/glowplugs to try?

I live in NC, temp out is 90's lately.
Elevation is 200-250ft.
Humidity ranges typically in the 50%/60%s

Once I get some decent fuel and plugs in it I'm going to tune it from scratch based on some pretty good videos I found, I'm just looking for any advice I can to help along the process.
 
Yea I've been reading that alot of beginner problems are because of the lower needle. But I don't think I want to be running 30% fuel anyways, gonna bump it down and learn as I go.
 
Went with traxxas 20% and a cold plug and warm plug. If it wasn't storming I'd get started on it tonight. May still fire it up and run it at idle to watch temps. Visiting the LHS for the first time was pleasant. Got a gallon of fuel, ir thermometer, complete air filter, 2 glow plugs, 2 feet of fuel line, fuel filter, long handle tuning screwdriver, fuel bottle, and some other little stuff for just over $100.
 
I installed the new cold glow, fuel filter, air filter, and used new fuel. It died a few times while tuning and after I got it seemingly happy I hit the cul de sac with it and it slurped down two tanks with only a stall or two. So yea, seems that problem is solved.
Now on to the new problems to start investigating. No front wheel drive, glitchy radio, and breaking is pretty weak. Time to surf the forums and work some Google magic.

---------- Post added at 8:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:03 PM ----------

Oh and temps stated 230-250. I believe that is good for body off.
 
Yea that's how I pieced together the solution to fix for the overheating. But I have to do alot of reading before I even understand the working of the powertrain. I'm a computer geek for a living, this is a bit out of my professional knowledge, but I do like figuring stuff out. I pretty much have the basics of tuning a nitro engine down (in theory atleast) time to move on to the next piece of the RC puzzle. The heat issue is a case closed and I'm quite impressed that I came up with it so quickly.
 
Follow the drive train to see where the problem is. It could be a missing or broken pin in a drive shaft, a stripped wheel hub or a chewed up diff.
Driving it with 2 WD will shorten the life of the rear diff.

After nailing that one down, we'll go to the next problem. :)
 
Transmission is spinning up to where it enters the shrouding underneath. Forgive my lack of technical terms. Will have to start tearing it apart tomorrow to investigate.
 
You might have a broken pin at that point. The only way you'll know is to take it out with an Allen wrench to see if it's complete or snapped.
 
That would be great if that's all it is. Tempted to start working on it tonight, but I know i'll never get to bed if I do. As much as this should be frustrating me and pissing me off, I'm actually really enjoying learning how this stuff works. Every pin I popped out and screw I took out so far I saw something and thought "oh thats cool". Eventually I want to do a full tear down and cleaning on it. But not till I'm sure I wont be left with a pile of parts and a confused look on my face.
 
Found a drivetrain breakdown posted elsewhere by Olds97_lss. Going to print that and tear her apart tonight after the kids go down. I recognize the dogbone parts as ones I have in baggie of spare parts and have 3 new ones and one broke one in there, and a handful of pins. Might actually have the stuff on hand to fix this one.

Edit: On second look, these might be the ones that drive the indivual wheels and not the one that provides power to the front.
 
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Grub screw...ok good now I have a name for "this pin that makes the dogbone spin the front wheels" and blue loktight, got some of that somewhere. Anyone happen to know what size grub screw I need?

Edit: Perhaps a 86094 when looking at the savage manual page 37.
 
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Aparently thats all aftermarker down there too. The screw is far bigger then anythng they had, so we improvised with a different part that threaded it and seemed to lock it up pretty good. I wont run it very hard till I get a replacement, but now have to find that screw. I think it was a 5mm, will have to look and see.
 

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