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B

brokeitagain

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richmond va
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  1. Bashing
Hey guys thanks in advance for any help I've done alotta research but still got questions so here's the list oh and all this is in reference to a 2.5 smaxx

Engine questions

1. first off lookin for recommendations on upgradin motor I have the trx 2.5 I'm lookin at the dynamite .19t or the trx 3.3 but get a lot of different opinions on them anyone ran the dynamite or even both if so what's the better of the two for general bashin I'm not racing so I want somethin easy to tune for the most part that'll last me also wonderin what kind of top end increase ill see speedwise with the bigger motor.

2. Next question is what would u recommend for a tuned pipe lookin for a lil more bottom end punch but should I get the new engine first or are the pipes gonna be interchangeable between engines with the same effect on performance?

3. Also wondering what average engine temps are I c never over 250 on a nitro but my truck bogs bad if its under that but if it get upward of 260 or 270 it runs like a champ to the point that I've seen it pull wheelies in second with my new 72 tooth spur gear and I get no top end cutout signifying running too lean and motor has been fully sealed and checked right when I got it. Am I ok runnin my smaxx that hot or am I not tuning somethin properly?

4. My other question is shocks and springs I want a decent set of coilovers for it should I do a single shock conversion or do all 8 cuz I've seen it both ways and could u recommend a good brand and place to get them as well as what the best springs and fluid weights are?

5. Last bit of advice I'm lookin for is rpm plastic or aluminum or a mix of both just dependin on the part (ie aluminum skids but rpm a arms?) I've got the whole front end bulks skids and control arms converted to rpm thanks to a run in with an ac unit first day I got and last week a wot jump off a curb and the left tire caught a lite pole in mid air lol its all rpm should I stay with them for cost reasons or go for aluminum for durability I beat on it hard but I can drive so I'm not hittin curbs every 5 minutes lol.

Thanks again for any advice on any of this or if you point me to a good guide for all of it that'd be cool but mostly lookin for guys with first hand experience with the stuff so look forward to hearin from ya.
 
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Ight got the answer about sway bars after lots of searchin I decided not to go for em just change suspension up completely so any advice on exhaust and engine?
 
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cwal1774 said:
A lot of guys on here really like that Dynamite .19.
Click to expand...

Cool appreciate the opinion any numbers on it tho or good comparisons? I've found links but never a concrete answer on how the two stack up against each other just reviews of one or the other id like to kno which is really the best of the two and how long does each last?
 
what kinda price range for the engine? you wanna stay low id say get the dynamight. the 3.3 is waaaaaaayyyy over rated. simply put, its gonna break. maybe check into an O.S. .18! or do ya want to go BIG? get a red dot!

you will not gain any top end speed buy buying any engine. unless you either buy one that raps out tighter than the 2.5 (not likely) or you buy a more powerfull (larger) one and gear accordingly.

rule to live buy with a T-maxx is Aluminum down the middle, plastic on the corners!
 
the thing about aluminum is, it dousnt flex. plastic parts (especialy RPM) have alot of "give" to them. wich distributes forces from crashes. the bad thing about aluminum is actualy its durability. most company's make everything from plastic because it is actualy MADE TO BREAK. so say you hit a curb and rip the right front off your either going to break the A arm, or the bulkhead. if you have aluminum A arms and bulkheads, what is the next thing that is going to break in a crash? thats right, a part that is hard to reach and probably expensive. another bad thing about aluminum is that it dous not flex. plastic will flex, and return to its normal position, aluminum will not. so instead of breaking things like A arms, you will then be bending and twisting them.

i hope my input helps you out.

*this is only my oppinion on how things work, not everyone thinks this way
 
dub c said:
rule to live buy with a T-maxx is Aluminum down the middle, plastic on the corners!
Click to expand...

+1! Short, sweet and accurate.

A longer version would be:

Aluminum -
Chassis rails, center skid, servo skid, bulkheads, bulkhead braces, diff cases, diff cups. (ignore diff info if it's a maxx with revo-spec diffs, they hold up well)

RPM -
Arms, knuckles, towers

There's a debate over the towers. Some like em, some don't. They flex quite a bit and can allow the shock to be driven into the back of the fuel tank on a bad rear landing.

Myself, I went with RPM towers and relocated the tank.
 
I tried a .19 and love it. Much easier to tune than the 3.3. I first had it in my T maxx till I got my sirio .27 going again, now I have it in my Jato with a THS pipe and it flies. I have also heard good things about the 2 stage pipe made by buku (I think thats the name).
 
awesome info guys thanks again as far as price goes its really the same for me I can trade in my blown 2.5 for a 3.3 for 115 vs 110 for the dynamite so I want best bang for the buck under 200 if I can get the os for less than 200 n its better ill go that way know what I mean? N id love to go big block just don't wanna buy the conversion lol

As far as aluminum vs rpm stuff I'm seein what ya mean I let my buddy drive it yesterday n he slammed it into a concrete pillar within five minutes of me explainin its not a toy it hauls a** be careful lol he completely busted my bulkheads but didn't even bend the control arms I got (rpm) so time to rebuild front end tonight lol again n thanks again for everything guys
 
I've yet to try one of these engines, but Novarossi has a direct replacement for the 2.5 and it's under 200 bucks @ amain hobbies.
I kinda like the thought about a smaller engine giving larger engines a run for their money. Given previous experience with Novarossi's, I'm sure it'll really scream.
Going by their specs, it'll be reaching max power long after other engines have petered out.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...evo-Turbo-Plug
Comes with it's own exhaust header and pipe too.

Max. Power: 1.76 HP
R.P.M (Max. power): 37,500 R.P.M.
Practical Range: 6,000 ~ 44,000 R.P.M.
 
K I think I see the one ur talkin bout its 195 on the site couple questions about it tho
1. Says its a supercharged motor due to the design of our motors superchargers don't work do they?:\
2. It says only single adjustment on carb so is that high speed only?
3. I'm new to the hobby but I've never heard of novarossi how do they stack up again traxxas and dynamite motors

Either way I'm gettin a new pipe so that'll get tacked onto cost of other motors puttin me in that same ballpark as the novarossi which comes with one so I just wanna kno how they match up for reliability and power thanks again guys
 
Novarossi makes quality engines - (to use a liquor term) they are top shelf .
They also make engines for other "manufacturers" such as RB Engines.
I've never owned a Dynamite engine so I won't compare, but Novarossi's are light years beyond Traxxas.

It does not have an external supercharger - so I'm not sure why they call it "supercharged".
Could simply be marketing or could be some internal flow dynamics they figured out.
It does use a turbo glo-plug as opposed to a standard glo-plug.
It has HSN and LSN needles.

Here's the link to the T-Maxx engine combo on the Novarossi site.
http://www.novarossi.it/eng/product...p?name=N2.5SC/RT-TM&brand=nova&display=public
http://www.novarossi.it/eng/product...p?name=N2.5SC/RT-TM&brand=nova&display=public
http://www.novarossi.it/eng/product...p?name=N2.5SC/RT-TM&brand=nova&display=public
 
awesome info thanks again man now I just gotta decide which one to go with lol so onto the next bit which shocks to go with? And can someone send me a link or info on how diff pistons in the shocks effect performance? Any info once again is highly appreciated.

One issue with this hobby though does it hit everyone as hard as me lol I've only been in it two months and I've already rebuilt my truck like three times and run 3 gallons of fuel through it lol although the awesome news is I'm tryin to work out a deal for an aluminum chassis 4.6 savage tonite with tons of aftermarket stuff on it from a cl deal so wish me luck I reeeally want a second one and a savage at that:D:D:D (now just gotta get the gf off my back about gettin all this rc stuff lol)
 
I used these on my 3.3 4908 and love them www.teambluestar.com. they are great shocks for the price. Yes this hobby gets to everybody i have spent a small fortune on my MAXX. Plus 1 on the Savage 4.6 good luck hope it works out for you the Savy is an awesome truck. Very tough and durable I picked one up a couple months ago used had to replace the engine and spur gear and also upgraded the brakes to the dual disc but thats about it. I drive the hell out of it and haven't suffered any breakage at all. Wish i could say the same for my T-MAXX.
 
traxxas big bore shocks for the tmaxx are great shocks for the money. they are a set of 8. i think most guys prefer about 50 wt shock oil, thats what i run anyway. as for springs i personally use rc raven dual rates and traxxas progressive white springs.
 
wow no one has any faith in the 3.3????? and top speed in the classic t-maxx with the 2.5 deffinetly changes when you put in a 3.3 instead of the 3.3 I have done it on a couple and There is definetly a diference in top speed and it getting there. I havent had very many problems with any of my 3.3's or my trucks. With my classic I dropped it right down and she hugs the road, or dirt like a dream!!!! I garentee there will be a few people that will disagree about something but this is just from experience.(titanium racing shocks, i think by traxxas on the classic.) I can't remember the name of the shocks that I am running on my big maxx though, I will find out and let you know they r fully adjustable. the only dif. between Smaxx and what i run is the four wheel drive I have in mine. I dont know if this will help at all but this is my input.
 
I'm a newbee, just replaced my 2.5 with a 3.3, and love the new motor, its like night and day, after break-in very easy to tune, got my motot of ebay for $140 w/shipping...
 
That aint to bad on price. I know I love both of my T-maxx's and there is no way I would sell either one for anything else that is out there. And I have looked at somany sites stores etc. and i dont get that need to have unless i see another maxx for a good deal then i pick them up just because.. tuning is real easy and it gets easier the more you play around with it. Well good bashing/ raceing which ever is your cup of tea.
 
My advice would be to sell off your T-MAXX and your Traxxas stuff and go buy an HPI Savage. That's what I did and I haven't looked back. It saved me a brickload in spare parts because the dang things hardly ever break! I now have 2 Savages an older Savage X with a 4.6 big block and a new Savage XL 5.9 with 2.4 GHZ radio. They are both without a doubt two of the baddest, toughest, and fastest rc rigs I have ever owned. Especially with the three speed trannys.
 
wow I hear that all the time and you know i have an hpi product and not inpressed at all very cheaply made. no one else even has the start system traxxas does.. I am to the point where my hpi is now a shelf queen looks good but running it aint worth the head ache honestly.... everybody has their own favorite.. and he wasn't asking about what buggy he should get but parts he should get.
 

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