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Need scale bike chain info

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I'm starting to collect parts for a big ass tank I'll be building and turning into RC. Instead of geared transmissions with skid steer I'll be making it proportional steering with 2 motors and 2 speed controllers.
I've decided to go with sprockets and chains to the main drive wheels so I need to know what's available that will move about 20 lbs through grass.
So, scale bike chains and sprockets or scale chains with pinion and sprocket tooth choices. What info or sites have you got?
Maybe even belt drive with notched pulleys depending on available lengths.
 
That means $60 for each track to gear it 16:1.
Still considering chain and sprockets.
I've also been looking into small conveyor chain to use for full metal tracks.
Hard to fit since the tank is 1/12th scale, NOT 1:12.
 
I've also thought about building a tribute to an M1 Abrams that I crewed while in the army, so I have been thinking about it. I already have the radio, but dual brushless ESCs and motors is going to be expensive.
 
I ordered some items from here when i helped my nephew build his Robot for school. Belts and chains available,along with about anything else you need. If I'm not mistaken mine shipped from raleigh NC, had it in just a few days.

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/
 
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Another idea is to use a half differential set up from a kit like the SCX-10 (spools and worm gears). This way could mount the motors at a right angle to the drive sprocket.
 
I'll be using my DX-7 and the mixing will be used to throttle forward and reverse. It still needs 2 speed controllers to be proportional. That's what I've figured out so far, anyway. Probably all on the right stick and turret with the left.
 
I ordered some items from here when i helped my nephew build his Robot for school. Belts and chains available,along with about anything else you need. If I'm not mistaken mine shipped from raleigh NC, had it in just a few days.

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/

It's time to start a build thread on this since I've gotten a lot of the parts together. I just came back from HobbyTown USA where I ordered some bearings and checked out some motor and ESC options.
tmaxxfreek, I looked at that site again and I will definitely be ordering stuff there. I bought a 10' length of conveyor belt through ebay with some nasty heavy roller chain. If there's any way I can swap it for the plastic roller chain they carry I'll cut down many pounds of weight.
Keep an eye out for "Big Ass Tank Build". I'll post up what I've got and what I'll need.
 
I got a lot of parts today for the tank, and I'll have to change the "wheel" sprocket size to fit. I'm using #25 chain, but what do I have to know about PITCH when I reduce the amount of teeth to get a smaller sprocket?
I'm going down from a 32T. The problem isn't with the number of teeth, but the actual physical size of the sprocket.
 
What about using a timing chain, not sure about the sprockets but it would be larger in size for the tracks.
 
Have you thought about pullies and a belt?
 
Apparently, he's already got the chain, so it's a moot point. But, I wondering why couldn't just use regular old wire ladder chain. I've been seeing that stuff used on RCs for decades.
 
I'll get a pic of what I got for tracks. It's conveyor chain. The shoes, like tank cleats, are clipped onto the heavy roller chain. That's not the problem right now. The problem is reducing the size of the drive chain sockets to fit in the back of the tank.

Tank_Base_1.webp


The sprockets are inside the tank body and larger than the available space all the way in the back where the body curves up. If I can find smaller sprockets to put back there I can adjust the change in gearing at the spur and pinion.
 
A modern bicycle chain is made up of inner plates, outer plates, pins, and finally the rollers. The pins are pressed through the outer plates and the rollers and inner plates are free to rotate on them. This allows the chain to circle freely around the chainrings, cogs, and pulley wheels. Two things are happening to your chain as it begins to wear. The most obvious symptom is known as "chain stretch", but the name is a bit misleading. It would be easy to be mistaken in thinking that the inner and outer plates actually stretch with use, but that isn't the case. What is actually happening is the tolerances of the press fit between the chain pins and outer plates is increasing over time and as the small gaps get bigger, the distance between the chain pins get bigger and the total length of the chain increases. The other symptom of a worn chain is rollers that both seem to have shrunk in size, as well as have a lot more room to "float" in the space between the two inner plates. As a chain is used, the rollers slowly get worn down from contact with the cogs and chainrings. As they get smaller, the gap between them obviously increases in size. Further exasperating this issue is how the roller has room to rattle or float within the inner plates. This is caused by wearing down of the inner shoulder that the rollers turn on
 
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